idles rough,stals when i gas it,stalls when cold - Team Camaro Tech
Troubleshooting Diagnosing problems done here.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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I have a 1884 camaro 2.8 LT and every time i punch the gas it boggs down and trys to stall, but if i push half way its fine. When its cod it trys to stall alot, and it idles so rough it shakes the whole car. If you can help thanks alot Quinn
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 02:12 PM
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Quinn, Get thee to a scan tool and have some check to see if the temp sensor is telling the computer that the coolant is still warm. I think that that is what is happening, the temp sensor tells the computer what the coolant temp is and the computer adjusts the fuel and timing accordingly. WELCOME to one of the BEST sites on the net.

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
 
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what kind of scan tool do i need? one for the computer? Quinn
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 01, 09:12 PM
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Wow! An 1884 camaro! That thing must be worth a fortune!

Sorry, couldnt resist

A scan tool reads the codes stored in the computer...it should tell you if any of the sensors are not working properly. They are real cheap...last one I bought was $16 and well worth it.



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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 01, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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i only paid 700 for it. first i am going to change the fuel pump and the plugs and wires i dont know when they were changed last i think i also need a new carb for it what type and size would be the best for it, it has fisher 2 bar. on it right now. i thought about a holley 750cmf wth a msd 6a igniton. Quinn
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 01, 09:46 PM
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What's the exact year? Start out with all the usual stuff(very important),cannot run well without,good compression,check for vaccum leaks,correct timing.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 01, 01:43 AM
 
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The 2.8 engines usually have an Early Fuel Evaporation (EFE) heater grid between the carburetor and the intake manifold. This heater grid vaporizes your fuel during cold startup and driveaway. Failure can lead to hard starts, stalls, and rough idle when cold. Check for two wires running to the base of the carburetor (on the driver's side on my vehicle) and test there for resistance thru the grid (3 ohms or so, zero is bad). Check at the connector for 12 volts input as well. If no voltage, work back thru the temp sensor to the EFE relay. Good luck!

You are kidding about the 750--aren't you?
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 01, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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no i am not joking about the 750 why whats wrong i dont know alot about cars i took auto 1,2,3,4 in high school but i have not finished it yet maybe next year. i am not a real expert i only know somethings. like trubleshooting on somethings but not everything by the way i ment 1984 camaro. like i did not know about the grid. however can you explain it a bit more because when it warms up it only trys to stall or hesitates when i try to go. thanks for all your help people Quinn
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 01, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
 
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i slao half to push my gas pedal to start it is that because of my pump or the grid? Quinn
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 01, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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one moer thing i have to keep on pumping it till it warms up. Quinn
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 01, 07:42 AM
 
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A 750 cfm carburetor is too large for a 2.8 liter engine. Driveability would be much worse than with the present carburetor. Try to sort out the present problems with your 2SE carburetor before you make any performance upgrades. The exception to this advice would be if you find that you need to replace the carburetor, in which case you will find that it is an expensive little dude. Then you might consider one of the more generic 2-barrels in its place. I'm right where you are at the moment, except my 2.8 (in a Jeep Cherokee) won't even start. I've corrected the problem I have with voltage leakage between the leads, so that now it at least backfires! My timing light has gone missing and the last person to have it has not ponied up for a new one yet, so I'm not at all sure of my initial timing at the moment. I do know that my heating grid is history, since I only read .002 ohm across it. [Touching the multimeter leads together gives me .001 ohm, so I know there must be a short in the grid somewhere.] In my climate, I don't think my engine is going to run without the grid--in Ocala, it may not even need the grid once you get back to normal temperatures. Verifying all carb settings is apparently fairly complicated, involving setting various angles and many gaps (see if your library has a Chilton's #7655 Truck & Van Repair Manual for 1979 to 1986, go to the Unit Repair section for Rochester carbs, and you'll see what I mean. The carb gasket kit is $20 at AutoZone and the EFE grid is $120 at my local dealer. One could conceivably come out money and aggravation ahead by replacing the whole shooting match with another, more tunable carb. I'm not very knowledgable re the 2.8, so haven't a clue as to what that replacement carb might be, but someone on this forum should be able to help us both out. Good luck.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 01, 03:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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thanks for your help i think i have found my leeds from that gris but als i think i am running to rich i have smoke comming out from my hood its in the back side by my exhust somewhere? i tighten my ex. bolts but i may have to replace some gaskets. i am also going to put in hotter plugs to burn up the fuel. does that sound ok? thanks Quinn
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 01, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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i think i have found part of my problem, my choke does not work and i think the grid is not getting power because i have a lot of fuel building up and i also disconected the leads and nothing new happened. Quinn
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 01, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
 
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some one also told me my timing is off. but how do i fix my choke? Quinn
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 01, 01:20 AM
 
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You're gonna have to get (borrow, buy, rent, whatever) a volt-ohm meter (VOM) or at least a test light to check the EFE grid and choke leads. Your choke is probably heated by the same lead/relay that feeds your EFE grid. The relay on my Jeep was a Standard Ignition (that's the brand name) RY48 & cost about $15 from the dealer. The EFE grid was available at the Chevy dealer for about $40. Haven't put new grid in yet, so can't tell you if it will make a big difference or not. I bought a new timing light the other day, so ignition timing should soon be a non-issue. If mine continues to backfire after the ignition and EFE grid are set right, a sticking or broken valve component is gonna become my next suspect--the manuals indicate that the 2.8 doesn't like to start when a valve is sticking. BTW, look at this carb site that someone posted on another tech site: <http://www.inco.pair.com/carburetors.htm> It appears economical rebuilds are in fact available for this carb. Good luck.
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