A 750 cfm carburetor is too large for a 2.8 liter engine. Driveability would be much worse than with the present carburetor. Try to sort out the present problems with your 2SE carburetor before you make any performance upgrades. The exception to this advice would be if you find that you need to replace the carburetor, in which case you will find that it is an expensive little dude. Then you might consider one of the more generic 2-barrels in its place. I'm right where you are at the moment, except my 2.8 (in a Jeep Cherokee) won't even start. I've corrected the problem I have with voltage leakage between the leads, so that now it at least backfires! My timing light has gone missing and the last person to have it has not ponied up for a new one yet, so I'm not at all sure of my initial timing at the moment. I do know that my heating grid is history, since I only read .002 ohm across it. [Touching the multimeter leads together gives me .001 ohm, so I know there must be a short in the grid somewhere.] In my climate, I don't think my engine is going to run without the grid--in Ocala, it may not even need the grid once you get back to normal temperatures. Verifying all carb settings is apparently fairly complicated, involving setting various angles and many gaps (see if your library has a Chilton's #7655 Truck & Van Repair Manual for 1979 to 1986, go to the Unit Repair section for Rochester carbs, and you'll see what I mean. The carb gasket kit is $20 at AutoZone and the EFE grid is $120 at my local dealer. One could conceivably come out money and aggravation ahead by replacing the whole shooting match with another, more tunable carb. I'm not very knowledgable re the 2.8, so haven't a clue as to what that replacement carb might be, but someone on this forum should be able to help us both out. Good luck.