Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
There should be a thermal spring inside the choke housing. A tang on the spring engages with the lever that operates the choke. Remove the choke housing cover and see that it is properly hooked up. It may be that all you need to do is rotate the housing counter clock-wise a fuzz.
Then again, it may be that way because there is something else wrong with the choke. For starters, the choke is heated by one of two methods. The most common method found on hot-rods is the electric choke. There are two terminals on the choke housing that apply 12Volts and ground when the engine is on. The other method uses the heat riser passage in the intake and a couple of pipes that feed warm air into the choke housing. Yet another setup, the choke spring is mounted on the intake manifold above the heat riser passage and connected to the choke mechanism by a linkage.
The other common choke problem that will cause someone to disable the choke is a bad pull-off servo. There should be a vacuum servo (and a dashpot on some Q-jets) that open the choke plate a bit after the engine starts so it can run. The dash-pot, if one is installed, holds the choke open a bit between cranks to reduce the chances of flooding.
Lastly, check to make sure that the choke mechansisms operate smoothly. There is a counter weight and idle speed cam buried in there that sometimes will bind up if they get bent or improperly installed.
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI