98' Starting problems - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 2 (permalink) Old May 26th, 06, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1
Unhappy 98' Starting problems

I have a 1998 Camaro with a V6. Sometimes it starts fine, other times it's a little hard to start and when it does the engine revs to about 2500 RPM then drops to 500 RPM about 4 or 5 times within about 15 or 20 seconds until it settles at normal idle. I'm wondering if this might be some sort of fuel problem because there is a noise like a high pitched whine coming from the back of the car, which I'm assuming is the fuel pump, but seems louder than normal. Also, a few minutes after its running I hear 4 or 5 loud clicks also from the back of the car like a relay switching bach and forth. Thanks
paltnether is offline  
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post #2 of 2 (permalink) Old May 26th, 06, 10:02 PM
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 11
Re: 98' Starting problems

it could be a fuel pump issue. sounds like it might be from what it sounds like, but just to be on the safe side make a few cheap checks first. Pull out the Mass Airflow Sensor and spray with some electrical connector quick drying cleaner and if it's got stuff stuck on it carefully remove it. also check to make sure you're getting proper readings from your TPS. Put in some fuel cleaner solution when you add fuel-- DO NOT FILL THE TANK, If you have a 20 gallon tank and it's 1/4 full put in 1/4 of a 20 gallon treatment bottle, do not waste gas or fill the tank, it'll save you big bucks and a big hassle later. -- let it idle for a bit, then go for a drive and keep the RPMS up around 2500. Check the relays in the front of the car under the hood and make sure they are good too. Check your plugs too, rough starts can be from bad plugs if you havn't replaced them. Lastly, if none of this works. Check all your fuel lines for leaks, if you have a pressure gage, hook it up and watch the line pressure to make sure you're not getting any bleed off from a leak. If none of these turn anything up and if your problem continues, go for a drive around the block and prepare for a push or wait for it to bog down when you take off from a stop sign telling you the bottom of the tank is almost empty. then drop your tank and check your connections and wiring first. DO NOT REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP FROM THE TANK YET. If you do, you could drop debris inside the fuel tank which could later clog the filter or damage the pump, or worse, be small enough to fit through the pump and filter, but large enough to get pinched in the injector needle damaging an injector. If everything else is fine, go ahead and remove the pump after you use cleaner and a rage and clean off around the top of the pump, alot of them have a twist in locking system, where it's slotted and drop in a bit, then twists to locks. others systems are just as easy to remove. Now I don't expect you to be a super genius or an auto tech like myself, but if you know of a place that can do a flow test for you take it there, if not you might just end up doing a swap and praying that was your problem, that's why I can't stress enough this is a LAST RESORT. if you are mechanically inclined however and have a good set of specialty tools have at it, and take it apart, inspect the seals, the pumping mechanism, and replace the filter. Other than that. not much info I can give you.
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