Re: Dragging Clutch
Well, if everything is working properly, there's just no way a hot (versus cold) engine should be affecting your clutch that much.
Something has to be wrong, so I'd start checking every last little nut and bolt. Here's a short list of things that come to my mind of things to check.
1) Make sure you're using correct parts (z-bar, throwout bearing, linkage, etc.)
2) Make sure all parts are installed in correct location and orientation (consult manual)
3) Check z-bar frame mount, make sure it's tight
4) Check ball mount on block, make sure it's tight and you're using right hole
5) Check pivot ball in bellhousing, make sure it's OK. Sometimes guys use adjustable aftermarket pivot balls and it may be mis-adjusted for your needs
6) Make sure your throwout bearing is on fork correctly, many guys install it wrong!
7) Check trans input housing for wear. Throwout bearing often causes this area to be out of round after many years of use. Sometimes you can rotate the housing and that will fix.
8) Buy and install a heavy duty clutch fork
9) Check crank endplay carefully using big prybar and dial indicator
10) Get flywheel turned
11) After flywheel turned, check runout with dial indicator with flywheel mounted on engine
12) Make sure clutch disc is true. If warped, it won't release correctly. It's easy to bend. Let's say you installed pressure plate, then (before installing BH) wanted to make sure tranny would go in, so you slide tranny in and then let it hang, with all weight exerting bending forces on the disc. Now it's warped.................
13) Make sure clutch linkage not binding anywhere and maybe hitting chassis or exhaust header. Mine (clutch fork end) was slightly hitting floorpan and I had to "clearance" a little with a hammer
14) Make sure you're getting FULL RANGE of motion from the linkage
15) Make sure motor, frame and tranny mounts are correct for car and that your engine/trans is properly located
16) As stated, use smaller amount of freeplay at top
17) Check bellhousing for cracks and warping
18) Replace bronze shaft bushing in end of crank with roller-bearing version
If I think of more, I'll keep posting.......
Let us know how you make out
Dave F. in Rhode Island
'68 Camaro SS Accel DFI 454 (SOLD - I'm a boring Corvette owner now)
Bought my first big-block Chevy in 1970
Last edited by Chevy-SS; Nov 25th, 06 at 06:47 AM.