Team Camaro Tech banner

Radiator help neede asap

3K views 26 replies 13 participants last post by  DT 
#1 ·
I have a 67 r/s automatic 327/275 ----I recently updateded the engine and it's up in the 420-430hp range. I don't drive the car alot which is problem 1. I also have a cheap aftermarket radiator.

Last week I had the situation of after driving the car for a bit and stopping for gas or whatever ...go to start the engine back and it's too hot to start back up and have to sit there like a jerk waiting to cool down.

Had radiator taken out because the hoses aren't hot at all. Get the radiator all cleaned out and ready to go from a decent local shop ....and he's recommending that yes proboboly soon I need to upgrade it due to the higher HP output.

We tried again today and the car severely overheated ... antifreeze all over ....big mess ...so bottomline .... I need a new quality radiator for a 1967 R/S...asap and whevere to purchase it .... Please can you guys help me. :beers:
 
#3 ·
also if you have a fan clutch make sure it is working right...my 355 w/aluminum heads seemed to be running hot after even a short drive (didn't overheat though), turned out the fan clutch was worn. I swapped in a new one, runs in the proper heat range now. I only have a 3 row radiator- also installed an auto trans cooler.
 
#4 ·
If this dont sound familiar. I had exact problem with my 67. Upgraded motor to about same hp. with stock radiator and had that cool down period as well as poor flow issues. I shopped around like crazy and finally just ordered from Ron Davis with the shroud and fan assembly. The reviews are all excelent and should recieve next week. Everyone says great choice, due to the reliability and its quite a nice looking radiator as well.
 
#5 ·
We tried again today and the car severely overheated ... antifreeze all over
How the hell just testing out you let things get that far out of control....and if it wasnt hard to do, assuming thecap, cores, thermost fan shroud is all ok....then blown head gasket....run a HC test on the radiaror.

Dump a stock radiator in.
 
#7 ·
I've got one of these on the engine in my signature along with a standard duty clutch fan and stock shroud. Last week after getting back from a drive I left it running for about a half hour in the driveway while fiddling with my fuel injection. It was almost 100 and the heat index was well over that and coolant temp never got over 180.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALL-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
#9 ·
I am also running hot in my 69 Camaro with a 383 stroker with separate tranny cooler. I cannot stay below 215 degrees if stuck in any sort of traffic.... I am looking at either the Be Cool SB or BB radiator but the BB is a lot wider and wondered if the battery or regulator will have to be moved. Also, any insight on the shroud (mine is a SB) will be an issue on mounting back in place... I also want to stay with the current shroud and my stock clutch fan. I have been told 383's run hot anyway..but the 215 just scars me to let it alone.
Any advice would be good.
Thanks
 
#10 ·
If your car gets hot sitting still and temp is ok when moving, it is an air flow issue.

If the car gets hot when driving then it is a coolant flow issue.

So pdm when did the car overheat, does it stay cool enough sitting in the driveway idling?

6t8 vert If the car gets hot sitting still you need to look at things like the fan and shroud. How far in the shroud does the fan sit? Clutch or flex?
But to answer the question the BB radiator will fit, it just uses a pair of holes further out on one side, nothing in the way. You will need to get a SB with A/C fan shroud though if you want to run mechanical fan.
 
#11 ·
I have a 383 with a 700r4 is my 67. I run an aluminum radiator with dual electric fans pulling over 2700 cfm. The fans kick on at 210 and drop it down to 180 in a heartbeat. Its expensive but probably one of the best purchases I've ever made for my car. Overheating on SoCal freeways is never a concern anymore.

http://streetrodstuff.com/Products/ProductInstancePopup.php?id=1988
 
#12 ·
Shadow53 - Thanks for the update on the 383 you are running. I see you went to the electric fans. I was hoping to use my existing shroud and clutch fan....but my shroud is a SB and the dimension per the SRS is about 2 inches wider... one suggestion was to use a SB shroud with AC, which according to the info in Rick's allows the inside the tank dimension to be 23 inches... so, maybe this is an option...
If you have some pics you could send to my email would be good to see your fit up on the electric fans. My email is rvs196t8@yahoo.com.
Thanks.
 
#13 ·
Could be more to it than just your radiator.

I'm also in the 415+hp bracket but run a 4 row /core radiator, a Derale flex fan w/stock shroud, a Summit Racing high volume water pump, and a 165F thermostat and my motor can sit at idle for more than 30 minutes without the temp raising above 190. Normal driving I'm at 175-180F.

What type of water pump do you have, what type of fan, thermostat....... etc.
 
#14 ·
Good questions.
I am running a stock water pump, and a 160 degree thermostat... I changed the flex fan out last summer and put on a clutch fan (stock). I paid close attention to the position of the fan in the shroud, and it is in the correct position. I also added a water wetter this past month to see if it would drop the temp 20 degrees (not)... the radiator does have some corrosion inside (you can see the corrosion in the top rows) but not really bad. I also am running a transmission cooler separate form the radiator. It is placed in the front of the radiator (lower and left side)... I was thinking this could be an additive in the higher temps...but again, a 383 apparently does run hot. I have about 410hp, so maybe this puppy just does run hot... but am trying to get the temps down. I have not chagned out the anti-freeze and flushed the radiator... maybe this could help??? but do not know...
Other than that the car is very good, tight, drives great, has a great motor, smooth tranny, but just is a hot temp car... Any suggestions or things you have found to help your hot 383 stroker or SB with high temps would be great.
Thanks
 
#15 ·
Not sure where you heard that 383s run hot....that's a new one. Even if you're making 400 some odd horsepower, your not making 400HP idling in traffic or driving down the freeway at 65. With the Summit radiator I linked above, a 180 thermostat, a stock shroud and a 7 blade clutch fan my 383 runs at 180. Hot day, cold day, all day. There's nothing magical about it and you don't need some high zoot thousand dollar radiator to accomplish it - just make sure that what you have is up to the task. I wish I'd known about the rad that Steiner linked to - I coulda saved a hundred bucks!
 
#16 ·
I would agree with Al, never heard that 383's run hot.

Based on your responses I'd start with a new radiator and make sure your antifreeze mix is close to 50/50 for daily street use. Ethylene glycol antifreeze has different thermal characteristics at different mix ratios and unless you really know what you're doing stick with 50/50. You don't want me to expand on this as I'll have to post psychometric charts and looking at them get's really ugly without shots of tequila.
 
#18 ·
If running hot, sometimes a simple flush will 'fix' but these radiators are way over built and you may free up a couple cores , partly bloked but not the others that are fully blocked...this requires removing the radiator headers and manually cleaning with a trans dip stick.
 
#19 ·
Ok... Thanks for the input. I also do not want the electric fans, having to change the stock alternator, and making such a big change under the hood... Just wanting to get this thing cooled down.
Question: I have looked at the radiator at Summit for $299. and that works for me. But, do I have to change the shroud for the larger radiator? My exisitng shroud is a SB and if the new raidator is a drop in, then what shroud do I need to order? I saw one reference to using a SB with AC shroud... but do not want to buy something from Rick's unless it is the right item. Would appreciate some advice here. Also, does the radiator from Summit have the bottom connectors for the shroud to fasten in to?
Question: I also am running a trans cooler separate from the radiator... it sits in front of my radiator.... It is a TCI transmission, and the coolant lines are cut-off and uses flex lines for the trans cooler... would it be better to run the transmission lines to a new radiator with auto transmission cooling or keep the trans cooler separate and a manual radiator? I will have to run flex lines to the new radiator if it has cooling lines for an automatic.
Sorry for the questions, but just trying to get everything ready for the swap.
Thanks
 
#21 ·
sorry, can't help on the Summit radiator question. I got mine 8-10 years ago from Chevy Parts Warehouse before they closed up shop. It was a straight drop in using the stock SB w/o AC shroud. Near as I remember only thing I had to change was going from a 1.5" to a 1" fan spacer.
 
#22 ·
I also am running a trans cooler separate from the radiator... it sits in front of my radiator
Something I never do..my trans cooler is mouted bottom/under the radiator leaning back neatlty touching the chassis cross member.
Partly block a radiator with a trans cooler, that has a couple blocked restricted cores and you have basically the same as having a radiator that is 1/2 blocked up.
 
#23 ·
I flushed my radiator today, rinsing it out twice after the flush, and the temp gage still climbed to 210 degrees... this was before adding the 50/50 anti-freeze... Since my temp is still so high, I figured why waste putting in the 50/50 mix... (my temp climbed to 210 within ten minutes in the garage running plus the outside temp today was 90 degrees)
Looks like I am going to change to a new alum radiator, and looking at the one from Summit, looking at using a BB radiator and using a SB Shroud for AC through Rick's.
I think this will fit but would like to have some feedback if using a BB radiator, will match up to fit a SB with AC shroud... (I read this somewhere but have not found it again today).
I am also going to remove the separate trans cooler, and use an radiator for an automatic and run the lines through it vs the trans cooler...
Would appreciate the help.
 
#26 ·
you DO NOT need a BB radiator to cool your 383. Why not get one for an Abram's tank? Get a decent aluminum small block radiator (2 good ones linked above) and a small block shroud, a good clutch and fan and don't worry about mixing and matching BB stuff and SB stuff. If you get a rad for an automatic, don't ditch your aux cooler. Run 'em in series, or if your cooler is big enough, run it as a stand-alone. Trust me, I'm a doctor. Or at least I play one....sometimes. :)
 
#24 ·
The Champion one I linked on eBay has the provisions for the shroud clips. It also has a built-in trans cooler and works with a standard SBC non-A/C shroud. Keep in mind that the BBC sits 1" offset to the passenger side so if you get an actual BBC shroud it may not line up correctly with your SBC fan. Also the either SBC A/C shroud or BBC shroud are only extended on the driver side, they do not extend equally on both sides. The two extra inches on the 23" radiator extend mostly to the driver side. The fan opening is not in dead center of the shroud.

If you feel more comfortable spending another $100 for the Summit one plus having to buy a shroud plus rig it to actually attach then go ahead. The Champion one has a lifetime warranty and can be returned for a full refund including shipping within 60 days if you just flat out don't like it.
 
#25 ·
Since my temp is still so high, I figured why waste putting in the 50/50 mix...
yep..
(my temp climbed to 210 within ten minutes in the garage running plus the outside temp today was 90 degrees)
Forget about abmiet temps, a sysyem in good nic that will not worry it other than a couple degrees either way.
Did ytou pull the stop **** out the bottom, fish around inside see if there was bits of wire/metal gunge in there?
If so indicates/most likely blocked cores also...These can usually felt when cold...1st fire up of the day or new cold water added..thermostat is cold, as the thermostat opens one can feel cold and warm spots on the raditor if rpms are held up around 900/1100 rpms.

When you flushed, what did u use?
Did you add the cleaner and take the car for a 5/ 10 min run?
Dish wash powder and/or washing powder works real good..go for a run, then back flush with hose with top hose disconnected....Better still pull the radiator out then back flush.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top