Front brake question - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 09, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Front brake question

I have a 69 that I am redoing. I put a new rear end in and new drum brakes in the rear. Now I am moving to the front brakes. My car has manual drums all the way around. I was thinking of going with front disk brakes. I want to put a big block in it. I have been told to stay with the manual system because of low vacuum problems with big blocks and booster clearance problems . Some of the kits from master power look pretty complete. I have been told that the new master cylinders for manual brakes are very good . What problems will I run into if I convert front to power disk. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 09, 04:14 PM
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bill
 
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Re: Front brake question

it is better to run the bigger brake booster. but some have problems with running it with tall valve covers. so decide on short or tall valve covers before buying brake booster. if you want tall valve covers run smaller booster and a vacumn can.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 09, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Re: Front brake question

So your saying front power disk is the way to go ?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 09, 04:55 PM
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Greg
 
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Re: Front brake question

I run manual disc on the heap-Love it-A few easy to get parts and no valve cover/booster problems
All gm parts so so no fancy/spendy stuff needed unless you got extra green.
Stops great-No CONAN legs required
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 09, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Re: Front brake question

I have been told the very same thing from numerous people. To go with drum in the rear , disk in the front with a regular manual master cylinder made for drum disk combo. It looks alot cheaper and they all say it works fine.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 09, 09:15 PM
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Harley D
 
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Re: Front brake question

It does and the stock single piston with 11" rotor kits are plentiful and very inexpensive. Now if you can spend a little more and want a more hard core brake set up look at Wilwood or for a little less search CBB (cheap big brakes) It basically uses the stock single piston caliper and a larger rotor for better stopping on a budget.


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 09, 10:44 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Front brake question

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69-454 View Post
I have a 69 that I am redoing. I put a new rear end in and new drum brakes in the rear. Now I am moving to the front brakes. My car has manual drums all the way around. I was thinking of going with front disk brakes. I want to put a big block in it. I have been told to stay with the manual system because of low vacuum problems with big blocks and booster clearance problems . Some of the kits from master power look pretty complete. I have been told that the new master cylinders for manual brakes are very good . What problems will I run into if I convert front to power disk. Any advice will be helpful. Thanks
Big blocks don't have "low vacuum problems" any more than small blocks do. Depends on the camshaft and the tune. Stock VC's are OK with the factory booster and a BBC. Tall VC's present a problem.


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 09, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Re: Front brake question

Other than size, is there any operational differences between a 9" and 11" power booster. I found a conversion kit at classic industries with a 9" and it looks pretty complete.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 09, 12:26 PM
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Creight
 
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Re: Front brake question

I have the kits on sale
https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=149571
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 09, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Re: Front brake question

Thanks, I will go to that thread and check it out.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 09, 04:50 PM
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T
 
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Re: Front brake question

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69-454 View Post
Other than size, is there any operational differences between a 9" and 11" power booster. I found a conversion kit at classic industries with a 9" and it looks pretty complete.
In general, the bigger the diameter of the booster, the greater assist it can produce. (Max assist force available is based on the vacuum and the area of the booster). Note that there are also some "tandem" or "dual diaphragm" boosters that are effectively 2 booster stacked on top of each other, so an 8" tandem booster is roughly equivalent to an 11" single booster. There are other factors in the booster design that effect how the brake assist comes in, but the booster area will effect how much assist you can possibly get.

One other thing to consider in the power vs. manual brake choice is pedal travel. Manual brakes (at least, the stock-type systems) typically trade off a longer pedal travel to get the brake efforts reasonable. This results in a pedal that's higher off the floor (compared to power brakes) and needs to be pressed further to stop the car. The up-side is that it's usually easier to feel/control the brakes, but some folks are bothered by the long pedal travel.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 09, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Greg
 
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Re: Front brake question

Thanks for the info. If I go with a big block with stock valve covers (not tall) an 11" should work. The kits look very complete. Is there any changes I will have to make with the brake pedal or anything else ?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 09, 07:51 PM
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Re: Front brake question

you'll need to adjust the pushrod length and to make it shorter and change the pin position on the brake pedal


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We learn life's important lessons in kindergarten.

Harley D
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 09, 09:51 PM
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T
 
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Re: Front brake question

If you're converting from manual brakes to power brakes, just make sure you use the "lower" hole in the brake pedal (your old clevis/attachment bracket from the manual brakes should work) and you'll probably need to buy or make a "brake lite switch tab". Since the power brakes move the pedal a bit lower, the brake lite switch won't reach the pedal anymore. Factory used a little bolt-on sheet metal tab to make up the difference.

Pics available on David Pozzi's site that show the "lower" brake pedal hole and tab (along with a vast collection of other great info):
http://www.pozziracing.com/brakes.ht...0type%20master

Rick's First Gen carries a repro brake tab as part# PT-83 (maybe other vendors too, but this is the only one I've seen mentioned):
http://www.rickscamaros.com/product....3&dept_id=3440

One other thing -- "some" of the various aftermarket boosters seem to use a generic-type booster that bolts up fine, but the pushrod between the booster and pedal may be too long or too short (or just need some cutting/adjustment). I can't remember who I got my original kit from, but it ended up with a very long pushrod that actually moved the pedal up as high as my old manual brakes (even after cutting the pushrod down a bit). This only really becomes an issue if the pushrod is way too long and is only partially threaded (if you cut it to the "right" length, then there are no threads left, so you need to re-thread a bit as well as cut). I don't know if the SSBC kit boosters are an issue or not (they may be fine, maybe someone with experience can comment), but the parts-store reman booster I ended up using is lifetime warranty and dropped in perfect. Note that 67/68 have a different booster than 69 (although I don't know what the difference is...)
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