Re: Re-pipe master cylinder - now what?
Just to be sure, i'd bleed all them at the bleeders. You could always "crack" open the nearest fittings and bleed them that way - just make sure you crack it at a fitting beyond where you did any work. Most often, that's at the wheel cyl or caliper anyway. You could try it that way, and if you get a solid pedal and feel comfortable, then go for it. In my opinion, craking a fitting and bleeding that way is totally fine, but usaually very messy, and we all know the damage dot 3 fluid can do. As you know, you can put a piece of tubing over the bleeder nipple and contain the mess. Plus, you'll feel better watching clean fluid come out at the very end of each line.
PS Gary is exactly correct on the button. At rest, the button is "in". It needs to be held "in" when pressure or vacuum bleeding. "Pump the pedal" ceates enough line pressure so that the valve opens. A wood wedge or something might work also. A hose clamp worked for me. Pardon my spelling. It's beer day.
PPS Here's a handy hint for anyone reading this. Go to your friendly nearby firehouse and ask the guys if they have an old nasal cannula or o2 supply tubing in the trash. It is nice clear tubing and has a bigger end on it where the tubing connects to the o2 regulator. That bigger end fits perfectly over most bleeder nipples. Cut the tubing to the appropriate length (toss the nasal part - someone's had it stuck up their nose - yuck) Perfect for brake bleed tubing. Clear tubing is preferable to something like vac hose because you can see any air bubbles thru the tubing.
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Last edited by BPOS; Feb 14th, 09 at 03:34 PM.