Need a quick refresher; Body Mount R&R - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 09, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Wes
 
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Location: Leander, TX
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Need a quick refresher; Body Mount R&R

When I first purchased my 69, ten years ago, I replaced the body mounts with new rubber bushings. I installed solids on my other 69 I wish to upgrade the first car to the solids; much more responsive ride.

I'm only dealing with the four rear mounts; I'll be leaving the front two rubber bushings in place (near the radiator)

I've lost my cheat sheet,..the list of items to be loosened or disconnected. From memory,..

1) Remove the bolts that attach the front bumper brackets to SF
2) Disconnect the ground straps
3) Remove the 3 steering gear frame bolts
4) Pull the master cylindar away from the booster

Seems I'm forgetting a half dozen other items.

Please advise, or if there's a link that has the list, please forward (I couldn't find one).

Thanks!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 09, 01:03 PM
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Re: Need a quick refresher; Body Mount R&R

Try this, maybe someone can add a few things to this that I forgot.

Subframe Mount installation

Caution, watch out for distributor cap to firewall contact, removing the cap is not a bad idea but probably not neccessary.
Keep an eye on cooling fan to radiator shroud clearance. this is where you are more likely to see contact or damage, be careful, you may have to remove the fan.
Put car on jack stands front stands on the front subframe extensions near the radiator support.
loosen front bumper braces at the sub

Middle and rear subframe nuts are retained by cages, if the nuts are rusty the cage may be damaged by bolt removal and the nut can then spin in the cage preventing removal. Spray the nut and bolt threads a few days before attempting removal if you have the time. Use a good penetrating oil. I've had pretty good luck with rusty bolts by using an air impact tool. The impact shakes the rust free. I would first try to tighten the bolt, then spray it again from the top, then back the bolt out, if it seems hard to remove, run it in and out as you go to shake rust out of the threads, and get more penetrant into the nut. the rear nuts are usually not a problem since the nuts sit under the seats and don't rust, the middle nuts get wet easily and rust, are hard to reach.

Remove right rear sub bolt, replace mount, if you need more room loosen the middle bolt but don't remove it all the way. tighten rear bolt snug, do not torque.

Place a jack under the rh rocker panel, put a 2x4 about 1foot long between rocker and jack to protect the rocker. with some pressure on the jack, remove the center bolt and raise jack until you can get the mount out, you may have to loosen the front mount to get enough room, make sure the bumper support is not limiting front drop. replace center mount and run the bolt down but tighten lightly.

With some pressure on the jack under the rocker, remove the RF mount bolt, raise jack until you have enough room to remove the mount. You will probably have to loosen the middle sub mount bolt to allow enough separation. This front mount has a shell sleeve on it's outside diameter that usually mushrooms out on top and you will probably have to chisel and bang it around to get it to separate from the radiator support. Once free, install new mount and tighten all right side mounts.

Do the same for the left side now, take speical care on the middle mount, do not separate the sub from body more than you absolutely need, the steering rag joint is highly stressed and mis-aligned when you separate the sub, use caution to not damage the joint or steering components.

When all mounts are replaced and car resting on the 4 jackstands, jack removed, you can check subframe alignment to the body by looking at the holes just out from the bolts on the center mounts. This is a factory subframe alignment hole sized for a .610" diameter pin. If alignment correction is needed, loosen all the sub bolts and pry on the holes by sticking a round pipe or bar in. tighten when aligned. Support the unibody with jacks and 2x4 blocks on the front area of the rocker panels, (below the door hinges).

Torque the subframe bolts to 110 ft lbs, check again after a few months. If you run your car hard, re-torque them annually until you see they are staying tight. Our car is open tracked and autocrossed frequently and we have seen them loosen up after a year. Once re-tightened, they seem to be staying put better.

tighten bumper braces, check steering dist cap and fan for damage/clearance.

The steering should be checked carefully, the alignment may not be the same as before causing poor steering feel or tightness. I like to loosen the steering box bolts to allow it to self center again to the steering column. the column bottom bolts can also be loosened to allow better alignment if there is a problem.
David

Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
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67 RS 327 original owner. 1965 Lola T-70
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 09, 03:42 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Need a quick refresher; Body Mount R&R

http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/bushings.html


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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 09, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Wes
 
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Re: Need a quick refresher; Body Mount R&R

Thanks David and BPOS,

Neither of your posts mention the master cylinder. I assume it needs to be saparated from the master. Correct? (though it's no big deal).
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 09, 02:47 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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Re: Need a quick refresher; Body Mount R&R

No, there is enough flex in the lines the master cyl does not need to be disconnected. I don't think clutch linkage either, but you should keep an eye on the clutch Z bar. The last two I did were automatics.

Just remember to loosen those bumper brace bolts at the subframe!!!

Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
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