Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 09, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

Hello everyone! New guy here.

I'm currently in the process of installing an Aerospace Components master cylinder to complement a drag-race type disk brake kit on my '73 Camaro. I will be making my own stainless steel lines and want to purchase a tool that will work without trouble. I don't anticipate having a need for dies other than those for 3/16 tubing. Does the Mastercool tool part #71300 have everything I should need to get the job done or is there any reason that I would need to get the more expensive kit with all the additional dies? I don't mind spending for a tool that gets professional results but I didn't want to spend unnecessarily. Thank You in advance for any input.

-Mike
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 4th, 09, 08:15 PM
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Rick
 
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Re: Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

$250
I think that is more than enough tool. I was trying to find instructions about the hydraulic component. I used my body shops flare kit and it was a basic kit and it did the job fine.
Practice on some old lines to make sure the flares are even. I did about 3-4 practice runs and then made mine. It was not that difficult. Run hard lines to the rear calipers and avoid the flex lines in the rear.

Rick
68 project...reassembly starting: (383, AFR 195, Air Gap, Comp Cam XR276HR, 1.6 CC Gold rollers, Holley 750, 4/09) (TKO 600 conversion from T350 4/09) (floor pan restored 6/09). (12 bolt 3.73, Wilwood disc, Hotchkis TVS 7/09), Dougs 368 with Big Dog mufflers (9/09), 383 fired up 9/30/09, Candy Apple Red 2012 with white RallyBee stripe
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 09, 03:04 AM
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Re: Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

I have it, and it works GREAT! That kit will come with everything you need, unless for some reason you want to do 37 degree double flares (A/N) fittings. Everything I have read states on stainless you should cut it with a cutoff wheel instead of a tubing cutter. A tubing cutter will actually squeeze the tubing in slightly, plus it can leave a slightly rough cut if it isn't completely sharp.... Which will aid in the stainless splitting when you double flare it.

You will find out how many friends you have after you buy that flaring tool....
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 09, 03:46 PM
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Re: Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5speed502 View Post
I have it, and it works GREAT! That kit will come with everything you need, unless for some reason you want to do 37 degree double flares (A/N) fittings. Everything I have read states on stainless you should cut it with a cutoff wheel instead of a tubing cutter. A tubing cutter will actually squeeze the tubing in slightly, plus it can leave a slightly rough cut if it isn't completely sharp.... Which will aid in the stainless splitting when you double flare it.

You will find out how many friends you have after you buy that flaring tool....
They make an add on kit to do the 37* flares now.

NEVER argue with a stupid person. They bring you down to their level, and then beat you with experience.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 5th, 09, 05:09 PM
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Re: Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

Here's one for $235

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...le&kw=MAS71300
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 09, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

Thanks for the replys guys! I really appreciate the help!

Thanks for that link 1stGen! That's about $50 cheaper than I've found it anywhere else.

-Mike
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 09, 03:00 AM
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Re: Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

Quote:
Originally Posted by bighaas79 View Post
They make an add on kit to do the 37* flares now.
Bought it..... but it doesn't come in any kind of case, just a bunch of boxes. I contacted Mastercool about a case for the dies, and their response was "No, not available in a case right now"
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Nov 6th, 09, 07:00 AM
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Re: Flaring Tool Mastercool #71300

Quote:
Originally Posted by dukemd66 View Post
Run hard lines to the rear calipers and avoid the flex lines in the rear.

One problem with not running flex to the rear calipers is you have to disconnect your lines (re-bleed) to service the bake pads/rotors. With flex you can just move the calipers to change pads and rotors.
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