Correct me if I'm wrong.... - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 10, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong....

Okay here we go I've been reading the forums here for awhile on the LS1 brake conversion and I think I have all the info, I just want someone else to check over it,

I bought the brackets for the LS1 calipers and all the hardware, I still need to buy calipers, pads, rotors, booster, M/C, and prop valve

I'm running the LS1 up front and drums on a 9in in the back.

So what prop valve would I need?

I have a 1969 that has a 454 going in it so I understand that I could use:

9in Brake booster from a 1965 chevelle that will clear the valve cover, and bolts on right?

1.125 M/C from a 1969 corvette

rotors, pads and calipers and caliper brackets from a 2002 camaro

has anyone done this with luck?

thank you and i look forward to the reply's...
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 10, 08:53 PM
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Re: Correct me if I'm wrong....

I would use an adjustable prop valve, so you can get it right, not sure that any off the self would be right, but not sure.

Don't forget the residual pressure valve for the drums.

A single diaphragm booster will not give much assist.
I would recommend a dual, I have one on my 67 with Baer (basically ls1) discs on all 4 corners, its great.
Try hotrodsusa.com for the booster, others have too.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 10, 09:29 PM
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Bryan Hall
 
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Re: Correct me if I'm wrong....

i dont know if this is the best setup but has worked great for me and i searched this topic alot when i did mine. stock 69 booster from my work napa. 1" bore gm m/c not sure specific year or car but can find out. i used the blue wilwood residual valve for the rear drums and the adjustable wilwood prop valve for the front. everything else came from a donor 99 ss the drum spindles will have to be milled down to accept the lsi rotor longer studs and the right hoses i got mine steel braided for like 50 bucks on here somewhere but i dont remember the company.. i love this setup all in all i had like 200 invested bc of some great deals. im gettin close to doing the rears here soon

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 10, 08:00 PM
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T
 
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Re: Correct me if I'm wrong....

My math says you'd be better off using the 1" bore master cylinder rather than the 1.125" bore job. A '69 vette "manual disc brake" master cylinder should be 1" bore and bolt up to the "early style" booster that has the "long" pushrod. If you end up with a "late style" booster that needs the short pushrod, then I think the 76-78 vette manual master cylinder would work there (?) -- not 100% sure on that though (it's been a while since I went parts hunting for master cyls...)

I'll also agree with 400bird and would recommend a dual-diaphragm booster if you can -- better power assist and I think (?) should still fit with a big block.

I'm also a fan of adjustable prop valves since they'll let you dial the F/R bias in.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 10, 08:37 PM
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Steps
 
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Re: Correct me if I'm wrong....

I have used the 1" and 1 1/4" bores with factory discs /rear drums.
1 was the orgianl MC the other a Aussie HQ GM holden...which bolts staight up...identical except for the body casting shape and lid.
The diffrence is negiatble...the bigger bore doesnt move as far and the 1" gives one a little bit more sensitivity.
If I had a choice side by side...flip a coin...or look at the price tag.
Be careful to measure the depth into the MC... MC come with different depths which require diff length actuating shafts

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 10, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Correct me if I'm wrong....

thanks for the replies I work for napa too, so was hoping to buy as much as possible there are there and cars that came stock with a dual booster?
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