69 - Adding Shims to UCA - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Jereme
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 160
69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Hi All,

I am getting my project back on the road after a frame off. WooHoo! I have completed the Guldstrand Mod, 3rd gen steering box and added Landrum spring adjusters (and springs); both UCA and LCA are stock with Urethane Bushings. I am starting to add shims to get the camber in order and am having a real problem physically moving the UCA inboard. I cannont get it to budge with a prybar. I have loosened the nuts securing the UCA to the frame (but not removed).

I have read stories about people slipping shims in a out for trackdays so I have not resorted to unbolting swaybars or balljoints. As always your advice is appreciated.

Jereme

1969 L78 SS396 (Engine Long Gone)
BBC 496, TKO600, Beautiful Stock 12 Bolt Posi (maybe the only stock thing left.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RedJet is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 10:17 AM
Moderator
Guess
 
HwyStarJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: New Taxes York
Posts: 15,364
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

"- Getting a little less baskety everyday"
I love that.

Is the car on the ground or on stands? IE: the suspension is hanging free?
If it's hanging free, can you drop it on the ground and get some weight on the front end? That might help.

*---------------------------------*


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

HwyStarJoe is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Jereme
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 160
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Yeah... I love that its less baskety too! I am ready to DRIVE my project. 13 years off the road.

Thanks for the response. I was working with the car on the ground and then when it would not move I jacked it up and removed the tires to check my torque settings on ball joints, steering linkage, etc. I tried again with the car in the air, wheels off, jackstands on the frame (suspension hanging) and still it would not move.

Should this be an "unloaded" part of the suspension with the car on the ground? I guess my questions is "under normal circumstances, how much effort should it take to lever the UCA inboard to add shims?"

Best,

Jereme

1969 L78 SS396 (Engine Long Gone)
BBC 496, TKO600, Beautiful Stock 12 Bolt Posi (maybe the only stock thing left.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RedJet is offline  
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 10:42 AM
Gold Lifetime Member
Rick
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Accord, NY
Posts: 4,815
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Very little effort. I can quite easily leverage mine once I loosen the nuts. Are both sides giving you a problem? I use a 2' pry bar and don't have to push very hard. When you did the G-mod they went on ok?

Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv therapy program, Autogear M22, 8-pt cage, with a new 410! SOLD
New therapy program - 68 Coupe. Will be survivor exterior, modern underpinnings! SOLD
67 Belair with perfect floors, pinchwelds and firewall. Hmmm!
RickD is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Jereme
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 160
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Hmmm. I have not checked both sides. I will try the other side today.

Yes the reassembly went fine after the Mod. Were you thinking of a specific problem? I can jog my memory, it was >2 years ago

1969 L78 SS396 (Engine Long Gone)
BBC 496, TKO600, Beautiful Stock 12 Bolt Posi (maybe the only stock thing left.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RedJet is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 11:13 AM
Senior Tech
Al
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Vancouver, USA
Posts: 10,511
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

I've never tried it, but I'd think putting a floor jack under the LCA and getting that wheel off the ground should free up the UCA.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
BPOS is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Jereme
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 160
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Thanks Al, I will give it a shot tonight.

1969 L78 SS396 (Engine Long Gone)
BBC 496, TKO600, Beautiful Stock 12 Bolt Posi (maybe the only stock thing left.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RedJet is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 10, 06:19 PM
Super Moderator
Bess-68's rule
 
Everett#2390's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Va Beach VA
Posts: 31,589
Garage
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

With the car weight on the tires on the ground, and UCA shaft on the engine side of the bracket with loose nuts, it should move pretty easy with a crowbar.

Same shim thickness on both is camber, adding shims only to rear bolt is caster.

Give a man a rescued dog for the health of both their souls. May 2017 ROTM Winner - Thank you!
'
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CUBS - 2016 World Series Champions - maybe this year, 2019 ...
Everett#2390 is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 10, 04:06 AM
Gold Lifetime Member
joseph l clance
 
joe clance's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 991
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

mine move in as i loosen the UCA nuts without prying (to some extent). Place the wheels straight ahead, on the ground, they should be easy to move.

69 X-44 base coupe, ZZ4, 16lb nodular flywheel, Center force DF clutch + PP, Holley 600DP, Hooker super comp 1 3/4 ceramics, 2.5" dual exhaust w/ X-pipe, flowmaster 40 series mufflers.
joe clance is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 10, 07:46 AM
Gold Lifetime Member
Jeff
 
yellow69RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Aurora, IL
Posts: 4,958
Send a message via Yahoo to yellow69RS
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

If there are alot of shims at one end of the shaft and few on the other they will bind. I always loosen the bolts with the wheels on the ground and usually the arm moves in. Sometimes both bolts have to be loose. You can subtract (rotate) shims from the front bolt and add to the rear bolt to increase positive caster while maintaining the camber setting.

Jeff
yellow69RS is offline  
post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 10, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Jereme
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 160
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Thanks guys! I will finish torqueing suspension components today during my lunch break (working from home today). Then put her back on the ground and loosen the drivers side to see if it moves any easier. Then I will try to compress the spring by gently lifting one wheel with a floor jack. If I still have problems, I will need to look for the source of the loading.

Best,

Jereme

1969 L78 SS396 (Engine Long Gone)
BBC 496, TKO600, Beautiful Stock 12 Bolt Posi (maybe the only stock thing left.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by RedJet; Sep 3rd, 10 at 09:03 AM. Reason: typos
RedJet is offline  
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 10, 10:28 AM
Gold Lifetime Member
Rick
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Accord, NY
Posts: 4,815
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow69RS View Post
If there are alot of shims at one end of the shaft and few on the other they will bind. I always loosen the bolts with the wheels on the ground and usually the arm moves in. Sometimes both bolts have to be loose. You can subtract (rotate) shims from the front bolt and add to the rear bolt to increase positive caster while maintaining the camber setting.

Jeff
My current setup is 1" shims in the front and 3/4" shims in the rear to acheive 5.25 degrees positive caster and .5 negative camber using Global West UCA's. Just as a reference, this will not bind when I loosen things up to adjust. However, I once had a slightly bent control arm bolt that would make it difficult to loosen everything up to add/delete shims.

Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv therapy program, Autogear M22, 8-pt cage, with a new 410! SOLD
New therapy program - 68 Coupe. Will be survivor exterior, modern underpinnings! SOLD
67 Belair with perfect floors, pinchwelds and firewall. Hmmm!
RickD is offline  
post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 10, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Jereme
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 160
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

Update: The drivers side was loose and easy to add shims. So I got the camber close on that side (need to go get more shims today) and cinched it up. Then I went back to the other side and it was still tight, tried to jack it up - still tight. I looked for interference and could find none. So then I turned the wheels ~20*to the right and gave the leading edge of the passenger side tire a boot with the bottom of my sneaker and the UCA broke free!

I am off to get shims today and rough in the front alignment!

Thanks for all the help!

Jereme

1969 L78 SS396 (Engine Long Gone)
BBC 496, TKO600, Beautiful Stock 12 Bolt Posi (maybe the only stock thing left.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RedJet is offline  
post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 10, 03:23 PM
Gold Lifetime Member
Fred
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Seabeck WA
Posts: 8,375
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

So Jer,,,,, how's it going?

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
)
RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Fred Ficarra is offline  
post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 10, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
Gold Lifetime Member
Jereme
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 160
Re: 69 - Adding Shims to UCA

OK, I got shims. Before I spent more time on the alignment I decided to check out the stance. So I backed the car out of the garage and took a look from about 30 feet away and realized that the front was a little high.

I cranked down the landrum adjusters all the way and think that I am in the right place up front. The rear is still sitting on OEM 69 worn rear leafs so its low. I need to spend a little time in the future figuring what springs I want to buy for the rear.

After I balanced the front end at the desired ride height I checked the camber on the drivers side and it was slightly negative and moved over to the passenger side and the aft boss on the UCA was in contact with #4 header tube and the camber was still positive.

I don't want to buy adjustable UCA's.

I am going to evaluate how much material I can remove from the aft UCA boss to get the the camber slightly negative. I am running 700# springs on the landrum adjusters so I doubt that I will get much lean when coupled with the 1 1/8" swaybar and poly bushings; so I should not need to get radical with my caster settings. My main concern is how much positive caster I will be able to get before I end up contacting the header again.

I backed the UCA down and cinched it up with 1/4" of shims, front and rear. I have about an 3/16" between the header and the boss which is enough room to start working on the boss. If I can get about a 1/4" of material off the boss I think I will get there from a camber point of view. I have no way of measuring caster in my garage so that remains to be seen.

Tomorrow I will hopefully get the camber sorted out and then set the toe after which I will return to tuning the EFI again because this ride will be street legal! At least enough to drive it to the alignment shop...

1969 L78 SS396 (Engine Long Gone)
BBC 496, TKO600, Beautiful Stock 12 Bolt Posi (maybe the only stock thing left.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RedJet is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome