Hotchkis front springs, sway bar hitting, and pinion angle! - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 02, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
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I just rebuilt my front suspension on my sec. gen. It has real stiff springs in the back, polyurethane bushings on the rear shackles rear swaybar, It has subframe connectors, traction bars. On the front i just put new upper/lower ball joints, poly control arm bushings, hothkis big block 2 inch drop springs, 1 1/8 swaybar with polyurethane, seventeen inch wheels all the way around and a fast ratio box. My questions are #1 on the passenger side ever since i lowered the car i noticed that the sway bar is rubbing on the frame rail, does this happen often? I was thinking about grinding a little on the swaybar and frame to make clearance,#2 What is the best setup for pinion angle, my car sits real low in the front and just a little bit higher in the back. #3 are my traction bars making my handling worse? it seems like the rear end wants to break loose very easily.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Any ideas?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 09:11 PM
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The swaybar and endlinks should be at a 90* angle when the car is at ride height. Are the end links too long? If so you can cut the sleeves to length and install shorter bolts.

At ride height the pinion should point down 2* relative to the transmission output shaft. Inland Empire Driveline has a good website with pictures to descibe this. Also, so a search in the archives, there's lots of info on this subject.

Can't help with the traction bar.
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[This message has been edited by CarlC (edited 02-21-2002).]
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, actually I had just figured out that same thing about the shaving the sleeves this morning when i took a better look at it, I will go to that website ,thanks, any other ideas about the traction bars?
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 08:26 PM
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The traction bars shouldn't be effecting you handling the way you are describing unless they are adjustable and you have them too tight. It sounds like a classic understeer/oversteer problem that occurs from having mis-matched front-rear sway bars and/or suspensions. If one end of the car is looser than the other, you will have a change in understeer or oversteer. What size sway bars did you put on the car?

Actually, now that I think about it, curing you front swaybar problem may solve the are currently not using all of its potential if your endlinks are too long, meaning that the front swaybar isn't really doing it's job.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 05:19 PM
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What kind of traction bars are you using? If they're the kind that bolt with clamps to the front of the spring or slappers that are set too tight so the bumpers touch the springs, you have just converted your entire rear suspension into a gigantic rear sway bar, and you'll have BIG TIME oversteer. With stiff rear springs and poly bushings, you shouldn't need any rear sway bar at all.

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[This message has been edited by JohnZ (edited 02-23-2002).]
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 02, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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I have the cheap lakewood traction bars, but i cut down the snubber so there is about 3/4 of an inch space between the snubber and the spring. I put shorter end links on the swaybar, it still barely rubs on the frame, but it is better?? I have a 1 1/8 swaybar on the front a the stock either 3/4 or 1 inch swaybar on the back. My handling is actually really good, I was just wondering if it would be better without traction bars. And i could be wrong but I think second gens. benefit from rear swaybars, I think it is first gens. Thad don't need one. Any other ideas.

[This message has been edited by cody (edited 02-24-2002).]
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