Brake Bleeding Technique - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 01, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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I was doing a search on brake bleeding and I found a method suggested that I don't understand. It was to hold the pedal down over night with the lid off of the reservoir. This is supposed to allow bubbles to migrate back into the reservoir. With the pedal depressed, how would the bubbles get past the piston?

I replaced my front brake lines and hoses and I am now ready to bleed the system. My last Camaro was a real pain to get the air out of. I am willing to try this method if it will make it easier, but I just don't see how it can work. I guess there is no harm in trying it, but I would appreciate anyone with experience with this method to comment on thier success.

Dave Richard
68RS/SS Convertible
L48 (350/295 Powerglide)
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 01, 07:14 PM
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What about the brake fluid's hydroponic nature?? The brake fluid would be saturated with moisture leaving the lid off the master cylinder all night.

Justin Traunero
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-1967 Camaro SS350 clone

My 1967 Camaro
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 01, 08:32 PM
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Best is gravity. Open up the bleeders and let it flow.Not overnight of course, just as you watch.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 12th, 01, 06:14 PM
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I've never heard of that one. I have heard of opening the bleeder valve and letting gravity do all the work (Gravity Bleeding, mentioned above). This doesn't involve depressing the brake pedal though. I've always had the best results out of a vacuum assisted brake bleeder. They work great and it can be done all by yourself. If you do get one, be sure and put some grease on the bleeder screw threads so that air cannot get into the system around them.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 12th, 01, 07:08 PM
David Pozzi
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That can't work.
I've heard of gravity bleeding by opening a bleeder and NOT pressing the pedal.
I doubt it would work on a disc brake setup with the factory valving.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 01, 07:55 AM
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Gravity bleeding is a good way to start the bleeding process. It makes it a lot easier for when you have someone named "Manual" in the car pumping the pedal. I always gravity bleed then have someone pump the pedal.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 01, 08:23 AM
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Thumbs up

I had great luck with the vacuum bleeder. I bled the brakes all by myself, and I was stopping better in about 20-30 minutes. I have always done the two-person pump-it-up and bleed it out before. Now, I prefer the vacuum bleeder.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 01, 10:53 AM
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Sounds like an easy job made difficult. Whatever happened to the "clear hose and a soda-pop bottle" method?

Fill the reservoir
Bleed the wheel cylinder farthest from the MC
Open the bleeder 1/8 to 1/4 turn
Attach your clear hose to the bleeder with
the bleeder wrench still on the bleeder
Pump the brake pedal 3-4 times
Wait for bubbles to clear out of the hose.
If bubbles won't clear, it's a sure bet air
is getting through the bleeder threads
or you have a faulty bleeder..tighten it
slightly or replace if faulty, $.99 at
Auto Zone
Tighten the bleeder.
Go to next farthest wheel, repeat procedure.

Am I a Simpleton? Set me straight.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 01, 11:04 AM
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Maybe someone can clarify this for me. Why does everyone say to start with the farthest cylinder (i.e, passenger rear) and work to the closest (i.e., driver front)? The front and rear systems are completely independent of each other. You should be able to bleed the fronts first and then the rears if you want to. I can see how this technique is required on the old single MC cars, but they haven't been built in years.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 01, 05:46 AM
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Gheatly...I think you're right...I doubt it'd matter. The rear brakes are sent out via one brake line then "T" split at the differential. Why would either wheel be designated first? The fronts lines are independent, so again, why would it matter?

[This message has been edited by Sleepy-69 (edited 12-21-2001).]
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Dec 20th, 01, 06:26 AM
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If you try any gravity method with the bleeders left open you will let air in as well as fluid out. It's kind of like pouring pop (soda for you folks that aren't from Michigan) out of a full two liter bottle - you get that glug-glug effect as air has to go in to replace the fluid coming out. Because of all the bends and small diameter of the line it doesn't matter if you leave the cap off the master cylinder or not IMO.

If you are replacing lines and have A LOT of air in the system (too much to allow any brake pedal pumping) then what I like to do is jack the front end of the car way up. Get it up as high as you can safely and fill the master cylinder. Let the car sit and refill if necessary. The small bubbles trapped in horizontal lines will will rise and accululate at high points in the system. Then you can bleed a lot of air out by cracking the connections below the master cylinder. Get all the air out you can this way and THEN do the front brakes using the bleeder screws. Lower the front and jack up the back. Refill and let it sit. Then bleed the back.

I only mess with jacking the car up if there is a LOT of air in the system. Putting the car on an angle just helps air bubbles in the long flat runs of a brake line rise and accumulate in one end or the other.

68 Camaro, 383 small block with TH350 trans. 11.98's at 111mph and never trailered.

[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 12-20-2001).]
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