CE Solid body bushings - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 02, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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I just received the CE Solid body bushings from Summit today. After reading the less than thorough directions, I have a couple of questions.

1. Does any thing besides a washer go on the bottom side of the subframe mounting plate?

2. It says that if you are using the car on the street, you shouldnt use the solid radiator support bushings. Any thoughts on this? Does anyone sell just the radiator support bushings in rubber?


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 02, 03:01 AM
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you can buy the rubber rad support bushings from Rick's... but I am running the solids on the street...

I an not using any spacer, other than the washer, on the underside of the frame. Haven't had any problems yet.

Check out my website and go to "my '68 Camaro" then to "other" to find some info on the bushing swap.

I didn't get any directons from CE at all... what did you get? Or were you joking that there were no directions?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 02, 06:12 AM
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I used the four bushings for the subframe to body with only the washer on the bottom, otherwise, its not a solid junction.

Use the rubber bushings on the radiator support to provide cushioning for the radiator, it will love you for it, unless you want to keep cahnging radiators out due to vibration cracks.

Or, remount the radiator using the rbber mounts on the tank seams as later years do, vibration plays hell with the soldered mounting brackets on the tanks.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 02, 02:12 AM
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I too am looking into these and was wondering if anyone has had problems with corrosion due to the electrolytic action of disimilar metals. I know with body lifts(trucks) its a big no-no. I realize the environment is totally different but don't want to cause any future problems.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 02, 07:04 AM
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Dave, I don't know if this will totally answer your question, but they are anodized. Check out http://www.competitionengineering.co...?CatCode=10017

As a side note, I don't see any mention of 1/2" lowering...I know that Detroit Speed and Global West sell the 1/2" lower bushings.

Bret Copsey
'68 Camaro base coupe
'92 Caprice wagon
'98 Malibu
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 02, 07:25 AM
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I purchased the GW bushings. Never thought about metal reactions but they are anodized. When I was placing the order, Doug Nordin recommended staying with the stock height to avoid the problems David mentions. Since my stock ones were so rotted, the body raised up about 1/2" from the new ones!

Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 02, 09:59 AM
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When using solid body mount bushings, do you have to worry about any sheetmetal misalignment with either full or half height bushings?

And it's been mentioned that when using half height bushings, you will run into several problems. What I don't understand is, it seems as if most people's rubber bushings are rotted enough until they are about the same height as the half height bushings. Any comments?

1969 Base Camaro
Vortec 350, TH-400
All sheetmetal is NOS GM
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 02, 11:29 AM
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the place I got my info that the CE bushings are 1/2'' shorter was from an old article in one of the magizines that talked about adding subframe connectors and solid body bushings on a first gen to assist in traction by means of weight transfer. It said that the CE bushings were 1/2'' shorter than stock. Then again... the stock bushings are rubber and can compress...

I didn't notice any sheetmetal alignment differences since I put in my new CE bushings, but I have to chase down a weird wandering problem that started right around the time I put in the bushings... but I really think that the wandering issue started before I put in the bushings.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 02, 09:23 PM
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Before I got my 69 it had been sitting outside as an empty shell for about 15 years. It had non anodized aluminum sub frame bushings on it. When I removed the sub frame the bushings where a little dirty but definately not corroded.

69 X22 D80 w/95 LT1 Terrorizing the streets of N.E. Ohio....in a year or two.........mabey
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 02, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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I was working on removing my rear subframe bushing this afternoon. It seemed to go pretty smooth until the bushing didnt want to come out after 32 years. After a little attitude adjustment...It came out. I measured the old bushing and compared it to the new CE aluminum bushings I have.

CE aluminum - 13/16"

Old rubber - 1/2"

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 02, 03:23 PM
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He, He!! how did you get them to come out to measure them?? Mine came out in pieces and powder!!! Shocked the h-ll outa me to think that was all that was holding my car together. pdq67

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 02, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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I just told them it was time to retire. They came out fairly peacefully.

The lower bushing still had CHEVROLET intact on it. The middle bushing is coming out tomorrow.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 02, 02:30 AM
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I used the CE solid subframe/body bushings and left the original radiator (rubber) bushings on my car. Two reasons - one, as expressed earlier was vibration to the radiator and coolers; the other was concerns regarding sheetmetal alignment and vibration. I don't know that for a fact, but it makes sense.

Not that I usually advocate cheezy alternatives but when we were racing Super Stock and needed "solid" bushings, be built our own with Hockey Pucks (yes Ice Hockey). They are the right size and are not completely solid. Just some trivia - I bought the CE's and would never go back.

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