Springkompressors - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
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Question

I have two questions about springcompressors:

1. Im a bit worried about how many turns of the spring i should compress, and how tall the spring is when it is fully extended and removed. So it wont be under pressure when i having the spring in my hands and unscrewing the compressors, because obviously the spring still is under pressure when the suspension hanging freely. How much threads do i have to leave on the compressor when im putting it on before i compress? I mean, i cant have the compressor fully open and the put it on and start compressing, because then when im gonna remove it, the spring still is under pressure when the compressor is fully open, the nut at the end of the threads.(hope you understand)

2. can i use compressors that have 2 claws in both ends like this, (----)-, or can i only use internal compressors?

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 07:09 AM
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Elon, NC USA
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Hope someone can add to this, we are putting new coils in our 69 and the 2 claw spring compresser i have won't compress the spring and fit between the lower a-arm and frame and be able to get it back out, who can shed some light on this?

thanks
69Dad
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 07:44 AM
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Guy's, let me try and help a little here! What I would suggest is doing it in this fashion! You will need a quality floor jack to do this. First get the car firmly on a set of jackstands and remove the shock. Next place the floorjack under the lower control arm and raise the jack to remove the pressure of the spring from the lower arm. Place the spring compressor inside the coil spring assembly and tighten to make sure that it is firm. (You don't need to compress the coil additionally) Next remove the nuts from the steering spindle and pull up the upper control arm to get it out of the way. Now your ready to lower the control arm and remove the coil spring.

One thing that you will need is a pickle fork to seperate the steering knuckle from the upper and lower ball joints. If you don't have one available, You can cheat it by breaking the nuts loose and backing them off several threads and striking the nut and letting the pressure of the coil spring to seperate the knuckle from the balljoint. If you elect to do it this way, don't remove the shock until you have the knuckle seperated and ready to remove. That way you'll have something hold the control arm assembly in case it comes apart. Then go through the exercise as outlined above.

Oh also... There is an internal type of compressor. At least in the US... Hopefully you can find one in Sweden as well! I know I rented one from Advanced Auto Parts here for a $53.00 deposit that makes pretty safe and easy work of removing the coil springs.

Hope this helps and be safe... This can be a dangerous exercise if your not careful!

------------------
1967 Prostreet Camaro
BBC TH 400 w/4,500 stall 4:56 gears,narrowed and tubbed...
http://www.visionworks-usa.com/camaro
Momma's new toy
http://www.visionworks-usa.com/69camaro

[This message has been edited by 67 Prostreet (edited 01-06-2002).]
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 08:29 AM
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Just alittle info I bought my internal spring compressor at a local auto parts house for 40.00 and you will always use it again on your next project
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 09:28 AM
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I found that the four hook (i.e., two,top and two,bottom) spring compressors can be real frustrating to use because they have to be placed just right in order to get a good bite on the spring and yet be long enough to compress it properly. It took me two try's to do mine before I figured this out. But it worked great after the learning curve!!! pdq67

PS., IT didn't help the frustration factor when I tried to do it at about 100 degrees F in the middle of a summers day. The next night, it was say 85 degrees so alot cooler and less frustrating!!



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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 09:55 AM
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I don't even use compressors anymore on Camaros with the engine in the car.
The spring will easily pry out from the control arm.
When installing, I use gloves and a good push to seat.
This even works with BB springs.


------------------
Don~ ZZ430DropTop
~~~~and~~~~
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 12:02 PM
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What do you bench press About 550lbs?LOL I couldn't get my BB springs in without the compressor!!!!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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I guess my springs will be easier than standard BB springs, i bought Hotchkis 2" drop springs. They are about 12" tall. How tall are standard stock SB springs?

67 Prostreet: Whats a quality floorjack? I got a small one that handles 2tons(it handles more, but thats the saftey limit), but it have a short arm like 13-14". I wish i had a larger floorjack with a long arm.

pdq67: I dont need to worry about the heat here, im glad if theres gonna be about 18degrees celcius in the garage. =)
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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I think it was David that said you can use some sort of tube or staff to run through the spring and shock holes. That should eliminate the risk that the spring will take a flight out of the a-arms if something goes wrong. Sounds like a good idea.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 01:38 PM
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What I used to do was wrap a chain around the frame and the spring and run a long nut bolt with washers on each end to secure it. And make sure you're not in front of the spring when you release pressure. I try to kinda use the drum or rotor assembly to protect from it in case it does go flying.

------------------
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 02:43 PM
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A stock spring is 16+ inches tall so tends to be a slight problem getting in and out without a compressor. It's no big deal once you do it a couple a times. It gets faster each time.

And, yes, I know you are up in the cold. pdq67



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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 02, 05:07 AM
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MagnusRS68, If the smaller jack is all you have... Then make a cheater bar to fit over the short handle that you have! Best to work as far away from the assembly during the release of the pressure of the spring.

By the way... I have alot of family there in Sweden. In Lund and Hudiksvall (I know I didn't spell that right) And I know how much you Swedes like the old Detriot Iron!

Good luck with your project



------------------
1967 Prostreet Camaro
BBC TH 400 w/4,500 stall 4:56 gears,narrowed and tubbed...
http://www.visionworks-usa.com/camaro
Momma's new toy
http://www.visionworks-usa.com/69camaro
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 8th, 02, 11:25 AM
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The outside spring compressors will never give you enough space to insert the coil with the compressors attached. I either use the outside type to compress the spring and then use wire wrapped around 6 coils and then release and remove the compressor before installation. Lately I have used my 12-ton shop press to depress the spring before binding it in a semi collapse position.
Once the spring is installed and the upper and lower ball joint castle nuts are on, then you can cut the wire and release the compression. If you have a powder-coated spring and you don't want it to get scared by the bailing wire, then use some healthy 1/4" braided nylon or ski rope and do the same process. With the ski rope you will want to wrap around the gathered coils at least 6 times on both sides of the springs. Needless to say, it is almost impossible to untie a knot in the ski rope after there is coil tension on the rope, so I just cut and sacrifice the rope. The trick to get the spring to slide right up into the upper pocket without interference is to wire the partially collapsed spring with a slight arch or banana shape. You want the arch or bow to protrude away from the car. Because it is always the inside of the coil that will hang-up on the round pocket opening.
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