Finally done with hotchkis x 4... - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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But the rearaxle still is offsetted more to the passenger side. And it drives me crazy.

Its about an 1" difference, and it looks like **** .

And the 1,5" drop 3 leafs didt lower the car more than it was before??? Is it going to settle, i jumped on the rear bumper to see if it gets lower, but it didt. =(

I guess im to tired to think more about the car for the day.

thanks
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 02:21 PM
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There are several of us with the same offset problem...including me! I have measured most everything and I cannot find any reason for this offset. I wish there was a magic cure, but I have not found one .

Your ride height my be the same as before because your old springs were sagging. I got the same result after I installed my drop springs! You could put a small lowering block between the springs and perches to lower the car slightly. I may do this on mine too.

Anyone else able to solve their rear offset problems?

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
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I hate to say it, but it feels good to hear that other have the same problems. =)

But i just thought of one thing todo about it, im gonna press both springs front eyebushings to the passengerside, i think that will give me atleast 3/4" inch out for the drivers side. But that will wait until spring. I have no tools for that here. And then maybe cut of a bit on the shackle bushing, but i dont know if it will gain any mor antioffset.

I also measuerd the distance from the base of the drumbrake to the welded plate on the axle and had a 5 mm difference on each side aswell.. Great work GM NOT.

I dont like the idea to use wheelspacers to correct it.

Thanks
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 03:47 PM
 
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Welcome to the club!!!!

My rearend is offset about 3/4 inch to the pass side. I just put a new rearend and Hotchkis springs in about 2 weeks ago, and noticed the difference. I'm planning on pulling everything apart this weekend and starting from scratch to see if something is just not lined up....... I have no idea what, but its pissing me off to just leave it that way.

The wheel spacer idea....... its something to fall back on, but there is no way you can compensate for 3/4 inch differnce. What is the biggest wheel spacer you can use with standard wheel studs ????
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking about that maybe GM did press in their front eye bushings from the same direction and pressed them all the way in and compensated it by offset the front moutningplates?

It would lower their production costs if they pressed in all bushing in the same direction and all way in. Anyone knowing things like this?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 06:19 AM
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I just took a look at my original monoleaf spring eye bushings...both are pressed in from the same side! The bushing sleeve collar is pressed in from the driver side (outboard on driver, inboard on passenger) on each spring. The amount of bushing extending from the outboard side of each spring is equal. I do not recall the Hotchkis springs having this equality!

My rear did have the same amount of offset before the Hotchkis installation, so I do not think this has anything to do with the problem.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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Aha ok.

But i was more thinking of doing like this, seen from above:
FRONT

II== II==
II II
II II
II II
REAR

Were the II is the leaf and = is the bushing. It just must move the whole package more to left, or was this what you ment?

Thanks for your inputs, WE MUST SOLVE THIS MYSTERY. =)


Hmmm. Looks like the "space" disappeared between my nice leafsprings.

[This message has been edited by MagnusRS68 (edited 02-23-2002).]
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 08:54 AM
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Hmmm. This might move the rear a little if you can also alter the rear shackles/ bushings to compensate for the offset. Unaltered shackles will prevent the rear from moving to either side very much. The poly bushings in the rear frame rails/ spring eyes are stiff (remember what a [email protected] they were to press in?) and will not allow much movement.

This is an interesting concept! Perhaps shaving the rear bushings (shackle/frame) on the offset sides would help?!

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, i was thinking of maybe add some on the left side of the shackle/frame bushing.

By the way, i hade to shape my polybushings to be able to get them in the frame, like this:
_
(_) and then i hade to saw diagonal through the top so i got it little smaller, And still they where pain in the @ss to get in. And the sleeve was hard to get in also.
I guess that someone have changed the welded sleeve in the frame, so it might have been smaller. But i dont think that the bushings will get any looser than the old rubber anyway, but im gonna have my Father to build new polythyrane bushing and make them fit.
My bushings i got with Hotchkis was 3,2 mm larger than the hole, that Too much to squeeze in, i got one in about 1/2" and when i took the press away it plopped right out again.

Anyone else had this problem?
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 11:37 AM
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I used plenty of the bushing lube and the shackle plates to press the bushings into the frame rails. They were a tight fit, but it worked! I also used a heavy hammer and blocks of wood to get the bushings into the spring. The inner sleeves shaved off a little of the bushing centers, but I don't think that will hurt anything- this isn't rocket science !

Seems strange that you had to shave your bushings to get them to fit properly. I remember someone else having to do the same (different post) for the Hotchkis install.

Keep us up to date on how the offset correction goes! I might try it too!

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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I also used the shackle plates and another bolt, i broke the threads of 2 bolts =)

Forgot to mention that one of the shackle bushings where in a different material then the others, and the flange was a bit thinner aswell. It felt like it was made of default hard plastic.

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 01:59 PM
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That is very odd that one bushing was made of default plastic ! Did you try to call Hotchkis to see about a (complimentary) replacement? I'll bet they will send you one if you ask for it.

I used the old bolts to press mine in too! Did not strip any of them though...did someone sleeve your frame rails for use with smaller bushings? Perhaps as a repair or another aftermarket install?

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 02, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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I didt care to call/email Hotchkis, even if i should do it, because my dad is going to do new ones later when im removing the rearend again later to adjust the front eyes.

So i dont have any use of one new bushing =)

And yes, it seems like someone had done some work back there, might be a rust fix or something like that. But it all is straight on that side of the rearend.


And i also have a tip for all that is planning to rebuild the rearend, and also the frontend. After installing all parts and so you should tighten all the bushings bolt when the car/wheels is on the ground, but that can be a pain in the @ss, so i lowered the car and jumped on it and rolled it forward and backwards, and then i jacked it up again and putted the jackstands under the a-arms and rearaxle tube, and did some more jumping(not hard because i didt wont it to fall) and then i had a good access to tighten all bolt with the long torquewrench.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 02, 07:51 PM
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If all else fails try to use the tuckers adjustable mounts/ or circle track mounts. (Bolt on) after centered properly weld em. You can also set pinion angle before welding. Sounds like better fix than dropping and re-installing leafs 10 times

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