Left Bend Right Bend - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 03, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Question

I've got a good 90* tubing bender from long ago. But the directions were lost long ago as well. The verier on the bender has a L and and R mark. I know this is for "right bends" and "left bends", but what does that mean?

Is a left bend one in which the critical demension is to the left of the mark -- visa versa for right? That seems like the logical explaination, but I want to be sure. I've been practicing on some old copper tubing, but I'm still can't convince myself what is correct.

Here is what the vernier looks like in ascii.

0----------R--------L
|-------|--|--------|

Also, what is that mystery mark to the left of R?

-dnult

[ 07-24-2003, 10:37 AM: Message edited by: dnult ]

Dave
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 03, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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I know some folks in this forum have bent there own tubing. - haven't they? - anybody?

-dnult

Dave
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 03, 04:33 PM
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Sorry dnult , in my case, I just used this model, no numbers on it.
Anyway, take a look at this guy's set of photos, even when he's not a Chevy fan, his info is helpfull.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 03, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Orench. I'll keep looking. At one time in my life I bent Conduit which has similar markings as my tubing bender. Those brain cells have purged themselves.

-dnult

Dave
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 03:42 PM
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dnult, I have one of the benders like you have. I just got mine about a week ago. I also have one like in the photo but I could never bend anything without crimping it. Anyway, I wondered what the letters ment but after a while I figured out that I don't ever refer to them. I snagged some old coat hanger wire and make a template of the line I want and them carefully mark and bend the tubing using the coat hanger as a template. At first it is a bit confusing but after about 1 or 2 nights of fooling around with it ( and ruining about $12.00 worth of tubing ) I finally figured it out!
I bought mine at Auto Zone for about $11.00. I stoped in one of the Snap-On tool trucks the other day and asked if they had a tubing bender, thinking that they might have a better one than I bought. The one they sell is the EXACT same one Auto Zone sells right down to the letters you discribe only they wanted $33.00 I am really happy with the one I have. [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]
Dan.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 06:31 PM
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I have a set of instructions for the tube bender I can send you. The L and R are for lining up the bend mark with open end of tube going Left or Right.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 09:42 PM
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i bent my tranny lines with a bender with markings like you describe. but i paid no regard to them, after doing a few test bends i found them to be basically useless (to me). you mention conduit, well, i'm an electrician and have bent miles of pipe it seems, from 1/2" up to 6", heavy wall and thin wall. i just bent my tubing like i was bending conduit. not sure what you are looking for as for using the marks, such as gain or deduct of a bend, etc, but if you know the angle of bend you want, and where you want to start it, it's real simple. i reccomend testing a few angles on a scrap piece first, mark where you start the bend (front of the bender "shoe"), then bend the angle you want, i.e 45, or 30 are most common. then mark the center of the bends, measure from the start mark, to the center of the bend, and you now know exactly where to start a bend on the bender, to have thre center of the bend where you want it on the pipe. bending offsets is easy too if you have the cosecant of the bend (or multiplier). with 90's do the same, mark the front of the bend at the shoe, bend it, then lay the back of the 90 flat, measure to your start mark, and the number you get will be your 90 degree deduct, or where you start the 90 on the bender to achieve the back of the 90 where you want it. this is actually way easier than bending say threaded steel ridgid conduit, since you need to lay out the bends first, then cut and thread the pipe, then do your bends, and keep the scrap pile to a minimum. i actually enjoy doing this aspect of my job, and it can get very challenging and complex. there is a book called "electricians guide to conduit bending", by richard cox, it's an excellent reference, with more info than most people will ever need, but its a cheap little handbook that would be worth getting if you have a good local bookstore. hopefully my description made sense to you, if not, just ask specifics and i'll try to explain. hope it helps [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Sean

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 03, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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I for the most part don't pay too much attention to the marks either until I get to a critical area where I need my bends to be less than a 1/4" from target. And if you don't know what the marks mean and try to use them, I'm finding it's easy to be 1/2" off.

David, I would be interested in those instructions if you don't mind. That's really what I was hoping to find. I tried going back to the manufacturer and they dont' even mention the tool. They either dropped it, or licensed it to someone else or something. Thanks in advance.

-dnult

Dave
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 03, 05:29 AM
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David, Would you forward them to me also? It could not hurt to have them around.
Thanks,
Dan.

Dan.

327 Small Journal, Air Gap, Edelbrock 600 CFM,
Comp 262H-10
Vortec heads
M20, 3.08,
Vintage Air

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G 50
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 03, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Dan, you have mail. Thanks Dave.

-dnult

Dave
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