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Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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i recieved my Aerospace components Pro stret brake kit today.
Its supposoedly a bolt on kit, we'll soon find out.
I'm very impressed with it, EVERY piece is billet aluminum, with exception to the rotors. the rotors are 2-piece rotors, one piece is cast iron (11" i believe) and i opted for the cross drill, slot and zinc wash. they're really pretty.
The hubs are billet, they included with that screw in studs, all the neccesay hardware, and new wheel bearings and metallic compound brake pads, which are really grippy. i cant wait to get these puppies on there, unfortunatley i'll have to wait until i heal from a recent collapsed lung.
I'll keep you guys updated on these.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 01:48 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
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Congrats man but sorry bout ur lung that must of been a shocker. But can you keep me posted on how easy to bolt on process is and if you dont mind me asking how much you payed with some extra options on there because i knwo they say 675 but they are always more
Thanks
Tim
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 01:50 PM
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so how much did your kit cost you? was it the front and rear brake conversion? and did it come with a power booster and brake lines or was that seperate? keep me updated on how the conversion goes and if it really is "bolt on".

thanks
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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TL757, thanks for the concern, yeah it was pretty scarey, but i'm getting better now, i just gotta take it easy for a couple weeks.

Its only a front kit, and it costs $777 with shipping and Cross drilled slotted and zince washed rotors, they were the only option. Otherwise its about $650+ shipping and turns out to be $675.

The stainless braided brake lines were separate but required (cost: $80 for the fronts) I also bough a disk/drum master cylinder 7" powerbooster combo which is on its way for another $280 from Rick's first gen, along with a billet prop valve, another $55.
totaled very close to $1200, but it definetly is worth the money spend, and will give me and my dad some piece of mind when i'm driving. (the old brakes are really scary)
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 05:00 PM
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Glad to hear you got them. Now I won't be the only person running them here!

Which piece was iron? I got my kit about 3 years ago and it was all billet aluminum stuff. Very nice. Didn't opt for the cross drilled or zinc washed though. Don't think it was an option then.

Hope you like them.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 02, 09:04 PM
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Carl
 
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We need some pics of the install!

How thick are the rotors?

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 03:53 AM
 
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I fitted this brake kit to my 69 396 convertible. I am sorry to say that they might look pretty, but when it comes to stopping the car are a P.O.S. Firstly, the pads seat directly in the aluminum calipers -they rattle around, and very quickly fret the ally and dig big grooves. Secondly, the screws holding the rotors to the alloy hats work loose, and need safety wiring to stay tight. Finally, the 11inch rotors are not big enough, and quickly overheat when braking from highway speeds. I was braking from about 70mph when there was a massive bang from the front of the car, and I left the rotor in three pieces in the road. Luckily I managed to stop using the parking brake. The other rotor was blue and covered in cracks, about to break as well. Aerospace were not interested, even in doing a deal on a replacement pair of rotors. I took the brakes off and fitted the Master Power JL8 conversion. You may be OK if you just want to show your car and cruise slowly. Anyone who wants a set of Aeospace billet brakes without rotors drop me a line! (I did a good sales job there, didn't I!!)

Mike

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 05:01 AM
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Ouch.....I hope CamaronotCamero has better luck with his, maybe he can buy what's left of your kit for spare parts? Sounds like he may be needing them........KZ

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 05:17 AM
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I haven't had any problems with mine like you experienced. That really sucks. Mine have been working very well for me for the past few years though with no maintenance necessary. Pads still look good even. Sorry to hear of your misfortune with them.

I agree that the rotor size isn't really intended for serious track-like braking, but I think it is adequate for the street. Much better than any drums.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 22nd, 02, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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This is the "Pro Street" kit not the regular kit, and its geared towards street.
They tell you not to use the regular kit for street.
The rotors themselves are cast iron.

boodlefoof is running this kit, and is having luck with them.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 02, 10:36 PM
 
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Yeah, I had the pro-street kit, too. 0.81 inch thick vented rotors. IMHO these are not sufficient for anything bigger than a compact. I'd not recommend anything less than a 1 1/4 inch thick rotor (like the factory brakes). I hope you have better luck than me. BTW, I resolved the pad rattle by making up shims/bearing plates from 302 stainless spring steel to fit between the pads and the calipers.

Mike
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 02, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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well i'm gonna give them a try, some others have had luck, and i got the fancyier ones, so i'm hoping i'll have good luck. you guys are shooting down my enthusiasm.
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 02, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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one step closer, i got my 7" powerbooster and disk/drum master cylinder yesterday. got it from ricks, turns out it's made by Stainless Steel Brakes co. and it has a 10 year warranty!
I also got stainless front lines, and a billet prop valve.
I know i need a prop valve, but dont knwo where it goes? does it go on the line to the rear brakes or the fronts?
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 02:46 AM
 
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Proportioning valve should go in the line to the rear brakes. Adjust it so the front brakes lock up BEFORE the rear.

Mike
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 08:37 AM
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Proportioning valve on both of my 69 single caliper setups have it located in the front brake line. This is the stock non-adjustible proportioning valve that is mounted to the lower booster bolt on fender side.
The rear wheel cylinders required more fluid volume to engage the shoes than the front calipers needed to engage the pads. Hence, the object in 69 was to restrict front calipers to keep them from locking up the fronts before the rears.
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