subframe connectors - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Does somebody know if those Competition Engineering ( CEE-3012 Chevrolet: 1967-69 Camaro; Pontiac: 1967-69 Firebird, weld-in subframe connectors ... )
would fit right a 68 camaro ?
And do i really need subframe connectors ? I install 6 new solid body mounts, and have poly urethane suspension bushings. I have a mild perf 350, and want a GREAT handling camaro! I have Koni shocks, and Hotchkis springs will come too.

I guess I need subframe connectors.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 01:22 AM
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I can tell you that the bolt in frame connectors, made by CE, fit great on my 68.
But I thought that with the weld in connectors, you had to do floor modification? Correct me if I'm wrong?
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 01:36 AM
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Weld-in frame connectors do help alot, and with solid body mounts, you're transferring the shock to the body verses having the bushings absorb the shock.

I don't remember the P/N to mine, but they are CE and they are mandrel bent to clear the floor pan in the rear. Yes, they do hang down, but I painted them black and you don't notice them.

You would probably want the type that goes through the rear floor and the floor is welded to it for added strength, especially with Konis and Hotchkis, you want the lower center of gravity.

If I were you, I'd replace the solid bushings at the radiator support with the stock bushings. This would give a cushion for the radiator, they hate vibration, that is, if its still mounted like OE with the soldered panels on the side of the tanks and bolted to the radiator support. If you've engineered in a set of radiator mounting items similiar to late model, rubber bushings clamped top and bottom on the seams, that's fine. Leave the solid bushings in the support brackets.

Well, you've got the solid bushings, the frame connectors, might as well install a good 8-pt roll bar, it would really tightened up the car. Just be sure to have the frame structure checked for straightness first, befire doing the welding of f/conn, and roll bar. If not, and the car is crooked, it will always be crooked. Just be sure to have the car thrust angle aligned when done, it'll work wonders.

But then, how would one do this in Europe? I can imagine the language barrier.

Well, I've rattled enough here, I'm sure others here will have some good suggestions also,

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 02:41 AM
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Do a forum search here.... there's tons of information on subframe connectors available.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 06:27 AM
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I think they're more important with a stick than a manual as far as reducing body twist. I bought a 69 that was modifiied to race NHRA back in 70 and they added an 8 point cage, subframe connectors and solid body mounts at that time. they raced the car for 23 years and then parked it. It was not a street driven car except for the first year of it's life. After all those years of drag racing the doors open and close like the cars was new. The body was very straight and panels lined up well and there were no stress cracks at the roof line. For a street car I'd at least go with frame connectors if over 400 horses.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 02, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Well I 'll take a look at the other topics (search).
Anyway I can tell you I must have something like 350hp, and it is a M21, with low gears.
So maybe i don't really need it?
I'll never race the car.
I thought welded subframe are a lot better than bolted ones.
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