1000 Smackers.. what to upgrade!? - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 02, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Well.. i have about $1000 bucks to spend right now. (I can move the price by about 200 dollars more). I was thinking about getting some brakes and paying extra, as i know they can go to 1500 easy. But i only have the 15" Ralley Wheels for my 67 camaro. Would i be able to get larger then 11" rotars(i believe they are called). I was told the 12" would give me a lot more of improvement.


Now if i DIDNT go the brake route i was thinking about upgrading the suspension. My 67 camaro has stock everything and only a 327 in it, which is why i thought about upgrading the suspension from what it currently is. Disc brakes would be nice but a new suspension would be nice also (even though when i brake my car wants to veer to the left w/ my drums.. of course ive gotten used to this).

So.. any ideas!? Ive looked at the global west kits but those are a little out of my price range for now, so its gonna have to be one or the other i guess.




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++Red 67CamaroSS/RS w/ a white bumble bee stripe++
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 02, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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oh yea.. and im not looking for original or stock. My car is heavy enough so if anything i would like a updated lighter brand of brakes and whatnot.


*Edit* sorry forgot to say im looking for a price/performance ratio here. I do not race on a dragstrip or anything. I am just a driving enthusiast and want the best i can get (price/performance) for my car.

Thanks again guys

[This message has been edited by xprow (edited 03-12-2002).]
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 02, 11:41 AM
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I have a couple suggestions:

First, I have a Steeroids Rack and Pinion set that I am going to sell, I bought it when I had a small block in my car, but it will not fit with the big block. I also have a new set of Hotchkis front coil springs that I bought at the same time. Both of the parts literally have only five miles on them. I had intended to build a hot small block, but had a really nice big block sitting in my arage, so I changed plans mid-stream.

My best suggestion though, would be to donate the $1k to my car. I need brakes too, and I need to rebuild the differential. Your donation would be very welcomed, I'd even take you for a spin!

Seriously though, don't make the same mistake I made by changing your mind halfway through the project. Decide on what you want the car to be in the end ('cause you're going to be spending alot more than this $1k on it....) and plan around that.

Mark

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69 SS, Stroker 489, Tremec TKO, Tight Road Suspension
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 02, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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heheh sure u want that via paypal!

i hear ya though. Im looking to put drop a big block in later down the line ( a lot later.. 5gs for a new one ).


We shall see
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 02, 12:27 PM
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How much you want for the Steeroids rack and pinion setup? What else is needed to install it?

------------------
1969 Base Camaro
Vortec 350, Perf. RPM, Demon Carb., TH-400
All sheetmetal is NOS GM
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 02, 02:46 PM
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I'll take $750 for the rack, everything is included, although I think I dropped a washer and nut while I was taking it off, I'll have to check. It was actually easy to install, I even have the instructions. In addition, I'll throw the Hotchkis small block front springs in for an extra $100, they are brand new too. I won't pay for shipping though. If you're interested, drop me a line.

Mark

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69 SS, Stroker 489, Tremec TKO, Tight Road Suspension
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 02, 03:16 PM
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John
 
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When I start upgrading a car I find it's best to follow this rule;

B - Brakes
E - Engine mod.s
S - Suspension upgrades
T - Tires and wheels

This gives me the best value and best enjoyment from my investment and can be repeated as many times as I want.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 02, 03:41 PM
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John
 
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check out the "pro street kit" from www.aerospacecomponents.com It is well priced and should work well on a street car. I have it on my '68. check it out at www.geocities.com/boodlefoof
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 02, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys.. hehe im still half and half on the suspension.. cause the new tires i have the front sits pretty low, so it scrapes (liscense plate) sometimes and i figure maybe if i stiffen the front up a bit.. also when i turn corners the roll to the outside is a lot.. hmm still either brakes or suspension..

Ill figure it out.. but thanks guys!
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 18th, 02, 01:45 AM
 
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See my reply to CamaroNOTcamero's thread "Wahoo! new brakes" about a week ago. I would not recommend the AP pro street kit. If you want brakes that BRAKE rather than BREAK get the Master Power brakes JL8 kit. Its the only one that will fit 12" by 1 1/4" rotors in a 15" rallye wheel.

Mike
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 18th, 02, 07:57 AM
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well, i'm gonna give them a try, but not going to suggest them to anyone. If they're crappy once i put them on, then they're going back to the factory. If they brake nicely, then i'm going to keep them, since they're pretty.
I havent had the chance to install them yet, i had a collapsed lung a couple weeks back, which stopped me, and was planning on it last weekend, but i got something that seems like the flu, so maybe in a week or two.

What are some signs that the brakes could be failing?
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 02, 02:22 AM
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Gary
 
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Just send me the grand and I'll come watch you run and tell you how much faster it looks now that you've wisely invested that thousand bucks...
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 02, 03:59 AM
 
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CamaroNOTcamero:

The disk rotors will overheat. Take a look at them -if they've overheated, they will turn blue-purple. You will also see cracks start to form in line with the internal ribs. Eventually if the cracks join up the rotor shatters.

Wire up the screws holding the disks to the carriers, otherwise they will work loose. Keep an eye on the pad abutment faces in the caliper for fretting and wear. Good luck, and I hope your health recovers soon.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 02, 04:08 AM
 
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xprow:

If you still want to try the Aerospace Products brakes, I'll sell my set complete with brackets for drum spindles, two sets of pads, hubs and bearings but no rotors for $400. Only on the car for about 500 miles.
They're currently in Mass. I'd recommend you spend the rest of your $1000 on Koni shocks and a pair of HD sway bars.

Mike

------------------
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 02, 05:00 AM
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xpro, I'm going to make a couple assumtions here: you have four wheel drums and suspension components that are original or old enough to need replacment. I'm also going to asume you can do the majority of the work yourself.

I would start with a complete front end rebuild. You can buy a kit from places like performance suspension or you could purchase the parts from a local parts store (Advance Auto parts in your area?) They carry TRW suspension parts. TRW is owned by Federal Mogul which also owns Moog but for some reason the TRW stuff is generally cheaper. Check www.advance-auto.com for prices

Anyway, you'll need upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower a-arm bushings, inner and outer tie rods pitman and idler arms. I think you'll come in at around $250-$350 for the parts plus labor to install the ball joints/a-arm bushings and an alingment. (that figure is just a guess though)

The next thing to consider is the condition of the tires. If they need replaced that is what I would spend the rest of the money on. The drum brakes can be made to work reasonably well for a daily driver. You can then save for a disc upgrade down the road.

If the tires are fine, then a disc upgrade would be next on my list. Do a search on disc brake swaps and the "cheap big brake" swap in the archives and determine which route is best for you. I've seen figures of around $500-$600 posted in the past for factory style discs-probably requires some digging through the junkyards. David Pozzi has a list of donor cars on his web page.

After all that, if you've got a little $ left I'd consider the Competition Engineering solid body mounts. They're available through Jeg's for $40 or so.

As stated above, get a plan and stick to it. Write out a list of everything you'd need and do some comparison shopping before you buy anyhting and don't forget the little things like chassis grease, wheel bearings and seals if needed etc. If you mail order anything, see if you can find a majority of what you need through one place to save on shipping charges. I really think $1000 to $1200 can go a long way if you're careful. Tires can eat a big amount of you budget but hopefully you won't need them. Good luck!


I just went to Advance Auto's web site and filled my "basket" with all the suspension parts for $224 and change......

I also meant to mention that for a little more money you can get poly a-arm bushings rather than rubber
------------------
Bret Copsey
'68 Camaro base coupe
'92 Caprice wagon
'98 Malibu



[This message has been edited by bretcopsey (edited 03-19-2002).]
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