Pain in the rear... - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 02, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
DjD
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Dennis
 
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Ok!! Taking inventory and learning along the way here's what I have; '67 (JP C 3 03 G) rear end. That means mono leaf perches (as pic's in other thread show www.camaros.net/forum/Forum7/HTML/002684.html ). I have 5 leaf multi's with multi leaf shock plates and u-bolts. Since nothing looks damaged I can only speculate that this combination of parts isn't ment to work well together.

So, do I try to find someone looking for a '67 12 bolt (It has the hanger for the radius rod) and find a '69 to replace mine? Or should I go to mono leaf springs? Is there a proper way to make what I have work?

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...Dennis
"The '69, the '96 & the club"
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 02, 06:24 PM
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Dennis, Man, It took about FOUR minutes for this page to load!
Something is wrong with the net somewhere the last fiew days!

You have a fiew choices. Drill a new hole in the perch being careful not to drill too deep!
Then either shave the head of the center bolt with a grinder or use the polly pads.
I would try to leave the pads out on a car with some power like yours, and the short depth single leaf perches.
You really need to use the short lower plates for a multi leaf car.
Your shock travel in droop will be limited with the single leaf plates unless you use shock extenders.
You could also buy new multi-leaf perches and weld them on.
I have put some new spring perch and shock info and photos on my suspension page.
David
PS. I forgot to mentio a spacer plate with a hole on top of the spring will work too. It will lower the car by the thickness of the spacer. That's what I did on my 67 a long time ago.
------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
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67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 02-09-2002).]
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 02, 02:12 AM
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This is a little off the subject but...if you leave the pads out (as I have done in the past), the centering pin on the springs is smaller than the hole in the "correct" spring perches and shock plates -- because the holes fit the metal housing in the pads. Will the rear not move around slightly?

I recently went back to pads for this reason.
Edit: mine wallowed the hole out in the spring perch and I had to resize it with weld.

Good luck DJD, keep us posted,
Joe



[This message has been edited by Turbo_Jet (edited 02-09-2002).]
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 02, 04:51 AM
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Another option may be to cut a piece of 3/16"-1/4" steel to fit in the spring perch, and drill a centering hole in it.
Some things you might check before swapping rear housings:
1) Mount ths springs on the car, and see how much lateral movement they have. There shouldn't be to much. Even trying prying them with a bar.
2) Measure between the frame rails to find the center of the car. Then measure from center to each spring. They should be pretty close to equidistant.
3) Cross measure from the locating hole at the front of the frame rail, to the center pin of the opposite spring.
If all of this checks out okay, you can pretty much eliminate spring alignment as the problem.
I just don't think that a very small ammount of fore-aft housing shift would cause the wheels to move laterally that much.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 02, 05:15 AM
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Dennis,

I'm with David on this one. You could drill a hole in the pad that's the same size as the leaf-spring pin and be done with it. The only drawback is that unless modified again later the diff housing is married to the spring. New perches are the way to go but if you could either trade for a used housing or sell for a new Moser 12-bolt housing that may be an option also.

I too just went through re-engineering the differential mounting. Because of miss-alignment problems I elected to not run pads. Also, the Guldstrand slalom springs are too narrow by 1/8" on each side of the spring. To make it three strikes the pinion angle is 5* too high, AND, if that isn't enough, I had to figure a way to make the small spring alignment pin fit into the now too big perch hole. To combat three of them I made a combination angle shim and side-to-side spacer. Imagine a standard shim with two legs that are as long as the spring thickness. The leg thickness is the same as the gap between the side of the spring and the side of the perch. This piece fits over the spring and alignment pin (there's a hole to fit over the pin.) It's a tight fit on all the parts requiring a little massaging to get it all together but it's rock solid. For the alignment pin a piece of heavy wall tubing with a bore the same as the alignment pin and O.D. the same as the pech hole did the trick. It only has to extend the pin about 1/4". It has to be stronger than the silly inserts in the pads. It all aligns nicely and with four 1/2" U-bolts custom made by my local HD truck axle repair shop it can withstand some serious abuse.

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The Red Beast http://www.geocities.com/casanoc
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 02, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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I think drilling a new hole in the perch is the way to go! Thanks for all the help and I'll report back one way or another.....

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...Dennis
"The '69, the '96 & the club"
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 02, 05:18 PM
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Dennis, don't forget to be on the lookout for a correct 69 12 bolt rear for a future upgrade. And someone with a 67 SS to buy yours. Even if you drill the hole, it won't effect the 67 mono spring to put it back under a 67.

Luck on the project! Kevin

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 02, 06:03 PM
 
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I agree with Kevin..I think 67 12 bolts are harder to come by and shouldn't be difficult to find a buyer. I wouldn't want to fabricate anything on the 67 rear. Get a muliti-leaf 12 bolt for your 69. The springs will fit snuggly and no more worries...
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 02, 06:59 AM
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I agree that welding on multi-leaf spring perches would be a good fix. However, you don't need the sides on spring perches to hold everything together. The clamping force of the u-bolts and the locating pins will keep the springs where they need to be with or without the sides - just look at 4WD trucks with lift kits. If the multi-leaf perches are too pricey you can use Chrysler or aftermarket flat perches. I think I paid $20 for mine plus $20 to cut off the old ones and weld the new perches on.

As far as the pin fit into the hole is concerned - if the pin is a little small you can "sleeve" the hole with a short section of tubing. It really doesn't matter what - copper water pipe, electrical conduit, etc. Search the local hardware store for the correct dimensions and wall thickness. I found some ideal pieces for mine in one of those specialty hardware bins at True Value. You can use a little JB Weld or epoxy and glue the spacer around the pin so it stays put.

You can buy u-bolts at Pep Boys. They are good quality 1/2" pieces that will work great. I think you can also order them from Summit and any trailer supply business usually carries them as well.

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Scott
'69 400SB, Richmond 5-speed
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[This message has been edited by RockyMtnRacer (edited 02-10-2002).]
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 02, 08:31 AM
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Dennis, Just wondering what the outcome was and what you did to fix the problem.

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 02, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I thought about replacing the upper pad with a plate but the perch and shock plate will too far apart for my liking. A club member offered to loan me a 12 bolt (yuk! Can you say 2:56 peg leg? Can't look a gift horse in the mouth though, overdrive should be interesting) with multi leaf perches and I picked it up last weekend and am cleaning it up and installing it just to have the car back on the road. The '67 mono spring rear is for sale and when I get it sold I'll look for a multi leaf 12 bolt posi to replace it...

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...Dennis
"The '69, the '96 & the club"
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