Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Why would the DSE kit cause more tire wear? The QA1 setup is simpler because it just replaces the stock spring and shock with a coilover shock/spring arrangement. I have heard of some issues of lower mount problems on these because you use the original lower shock mount which wasn't designed to support any weight to now hold up the car (unless they've changed that).
I honestly don't know enough about the DSE kit to tell you if it would wear tires any quicker than the bolt on Global West/QA1 arrangement or others like it form Heidts, Fatman, etc.
I installed both upper and lower GW tubular control arms. The lowers are made to accept the QA1 coil overs and position them properly. I wouldn't even think of bolting coil overs to a stock lower A-arm. I basically yanked the entire front suspension out and am replacing it with modern improved stuff. Looking forwar to experiencing the respons from my 2 turn LtoL GNX power steering box. The old manual one gave me arms like an ape.
My point was not really directed at the DSE kit, I'm sure by the enthusiasm, that DSE's product is very good. It was directed at going too far in upgrading a car intended for street use by cutting the frame up. For street driving and occasional competition, the bolt on alternatives available would most likely suit most enthusiasts. Well engineered bolt on upgrades are also easier to reverse if a person finds they didn't get what they bargained for...or got more than they bargained for.
To counter the statement that tire wear is only determined by alignment, this is not true. For example, a taller spindle will also cause your tires to wear at a higher rate. Geometries of a race suspension are different in many ways than one that is intended for street use. Modifying suspension geometries changes caster camber curves, changes alignment specs and race geometries add up to tires melting away at a higher rate, but gives improved corner carving response.
I think that all of us who are into the Pro touring upgrades for our 1st Gens are after improved handling so we can enjoy the pro touring life, and there are many options available, but you could easliy over do it and come out with a wicked handling machine that chews tires at a rate that would require water cooling on your ATM card. Same is true of the straight line drivers. Do you need a 4-link rear suspension and full tubs for street applications? Nope...but it looks wicked and if you have the power to take advantage of the improved straight line traction you get, then the $7,000 expense (before rim's and tires) is gonna pay dividends in the bracket races.
I'm hear to learn, so let me now if you think I'm under the influence...
ZZ502; TKO-600; 3:73 Moser 12-bolt w/Detroit TruTrak; SSBC Force 10 4 wheel power disks;QA1 Coil Overs; Global West Tubulars;GNX Quick Ratio 12:1 PS; Hotchkis Front Sway Bar
87 Buick Grand National (does 10's)