4-wheel disc brakes - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 02, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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I am in the process of redoing my camaro. I am swapping out the 10 bolt for a 12 bolt rearend. Now to my question. I have already put disc on the front of my camaro and I have the set to put disc on the rear. The mastercylinder I have has two reservoirs. Will this work for my 4-disc set-up or do I need a mastercylinder designed for a 4-disc set-up? Thank you for any help.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 02, 04:40 AM
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If it is a front disc type MC it should be OK.
If it has a very small rear reservoir, it will work but as the rear pads wear, the fluid level will drop quickly and you might run dry.

Do not use the small drum MC. It supposedly does not have enough displacement.
For sure it does not have enough reservoir to work safely.
David

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 02, 04:46 AM Thread Starter
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WOW!!! Thanks a bunch for the quick reply to my question.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 6th, 02, 11:32 AM
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David-is this true?Could you go into more detail?I'm in the middle of putting WS6 rear discs on my(front disc)69 and planned to buy a M/C from a WS6,but if the original will work that would be icing on the cake!What about the proportioning valve(under the master)and the gizmo under the drivers floor area?Isn't there a residual pressure valve somewhere in the system?What happens to that?
I know we've re-hashed this stuff time and again,but it gets confusing.If I can use my existing M/C with some minor mods(aftermarket prop.valve,etc.)
that would be outstanding!!

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 7th, 02, 05:06 AM
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Peter, when you say WS6 do you mean from the 70s T/A's? If so, the four wheel disc master cylinder has equally sized front and rear reservoirs.

Have you figured out how to adapt that M/C to the 69 booster or are you planning on using a different booster? Those M/Cs require a different length booster rod than the 69 M/C. Maybe you can just swap booster rods? If you can get it to work, a 1980 M/C would be the best because it is aluminum with a plastic reservoir - very light. They only run about $20-$30 at Auto Zone

Also, a four wheel disc system doesn't use a metering valve or pressure residual valves (at least according to Master Power's web site). You only need a proportioning valve. I would think that a WS-6 valve would work ok. I'm not sure if you would want to leaswe the valuve under the driver's floor in the system.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 02, 05:06 AM
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Gheatly-thanks for the reply.I do mean late 70's T/A. I haven't gotten the M/C yet,the rear end is still on sawhorses in the basement.The reasons I got confused were because in Mr.Pozzi's reply to this post,it sounded like I could use the setup that is already in the car.This could be a huge help,but I had some questions about the dist.block,block under the floor,etc.I'm hoping that a 4-whl disc m/c with an aftermarket prop. valve is all I'm going to need.I know the 4 whl.discs don't require a residual press.valve.As far as I know,that's located in the original drum/disc m/c.That's what I was trying to ask Mr.Pozzi about.Do you know if the T/A m/c you spoke of(1980) will bolt to the existing booster? I'm sure I can find or make an actuating rod to work.I love this forum,but so many guys have done so many different things,I get confused.
Thanks again for your help.
Pete

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 02, 08:46 AM
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Peter,
You didn't say which master cyl you have.
Any disc MC with 1 1/8" bore on a power booster will work. Many 70's MC's have a smaller rear reservoir, that one will work, but you have to really watche the fluid level in it.
If you have equally sized reservoir type MC, that is fine.
Check the outlet port for a residual pressure valve. I have checked mine here, and have none in them. Some may have a rubber valve about the size of a pencil eraser in there behind the brass seat.
You can pull the seat by screwing an appropriately sized screw into the brass seat hole and pulling the seat out.
I have been told by others here, the residal pressure vavle for the front disc/rear drums on a first gen is in the brake light switch outlet port.
I haven't looked at one yet.
David

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67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 02, 12:43 PM
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I have a replacement master cylinder from my JL8 car that I know works with 4 wheel discs. You're welcome to it for $45. I'm having an original rebuilt to go with my original calipers. Remember, the JL8 option did not have a propotioning valve and the JL8 master cylinder had a bigger bore or bigger check valves. David should know that answer. I also have a complete set of 4 piston calipers for the front and rear for $275 if anyone is interested. I need the money for my JL8 restoration so it would be a big help.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 02, 10:00 AM
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Peter,

Not sure if the 80 Pontiact MC will bolt to the 1st gen booster. I recently helped a friend convert his 72 Firebird to rear discs by swapping in an 80 rear end, booster, MC and prop valve. I haven't compared my booster to his, but the 2nd gen booster doesn't appear to be as tilted as the 1st gen. Maybe you could try to get a 2nd gen booster to work?

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