67 big block suspension (long but concise) - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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Jeff
 
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ok guys, im really wanting to make a decision but theres just too many options. help me please!!

my car: 67SS 396. mono leaf. tired engine but still wheel hops bad! 4spd M21 tranny. 25-26 inch tires on 14X7 rims. going to do the subframe connectors too (probably GW).

my goals: a street motor with lots of torque. looking at 500 lbft and 400+hp. i want it great light to light. (i mean get thrown in the trunk kinda torque). i want to be able to smoke tires and have absolutely no wheel hop at all! im gonna run 25-26 inch tires and dont want the car too low (i dont like that pro touring look...i want it at stock height or just a little lower)

my options (suggest more if you like)

option 1: hotchkis front and rear springs.
pros: good quality, probably no wheel hop
cons: lowers the car 2" in the front and 1.5 in the back. can you use the landrum spacer to raise the front with hotchkis coils?

option 2: Global West front and rears
pros: good quality (although ive heard otherwise). probably no wheel hop.
cons: lowers the car but not as much as the hotchkis (maybe only an inch-1.5)

option 3: Landrum parabolic mono rear
pros: doesnt lower the car. lots of drag racers use them.
cons: i dont know about quality. might actually raise the car too much! landrum says not to run cal tracs with the parabolics. but ive heard that any mono will wheel hop to a point...

landrum front coils
pros: can use the landrum spacer to adjust my front ride height (ive heard that you cant use a landrum spacer with other types of springs ... hotchkis, GW)

so looking at these options, which would you guys go with? remember, i want no wheel hop... thats my first priority, but i also dont want the car lowered too much.

any opinions on the landrum spacer to raise my front coils would be great too. as well as the kind of bushings to use as well... (are GW del a lum overkill for a street car? Is PST polygraphite good stuff? how bout other polygraphite??)

ok guys, sorry for the long post, but im just going crazy and want to turn my 67 into a street fighter instead of the Queen Mary.

thanks guys
jeff
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 10:32 AM
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You want torque? Drop in a Pontiac 455!

What are you going to do with your 396?

[This message has been edited by 1967 Panther (edited 03-04-2002).]
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Jeff
 
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im keeping the 396 in there cause its the original motor. i knows its not gonna be like a 454 or a 502 but i think i can build an awesome 396 torque motor (enough for me)

so any ideas on suspension??? thats what im really needing help with now
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 10:55 AM
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David Pozzi
 
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I would use either the Hotchkis or GW rear springs whichever is stiffer.
The Hotchkis are around 175 lbs/in according to my testing of them which is difficult to do reliably.
I feel the Hotchkis may be too soft for the power you have, and the power I will be having in my 67 too. I needed something to start out with and chose the Hotchkis as a good starting point.

I autocrossed with Guldstrand rear springs which worked GREAT!
The only problem is they have bronze bushings in them that rattled my teeth.
I don't have a rate on them to compare but will when I get them off the car.

Front to rear springing is a very important balance.
I had no wheel hop on my 67 at all and it was great after having mono leaf spirngs on there.

If you use the Landrum adjusters, use the springs that go with them that arre 9.5" tall, 5" dia. they are flat on one end to fit the adjuster.
David
David

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 11:33 AM
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Hey Jeff change your profile!! You're not in OH any more...

Are the upper shock mounts in such a place that changing the shock plates to '68 or 9's would allow for running staggered shocks. Is there other fabbing or is there an adapter for the uppers to allow staggered shocks? Seems that might be a part of the wheel hop solution since going from mono leaf to multi will require plates and shocks to be changed anyway...

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 01:31 PM
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i think you should go for 2" drop in the front and 1.5" in the back, it looks sweet on the stock style. Trust me you'll like, if the old springs are crappy, it'll turn out to be a similar ride height to what you have now, but much stiffer and it'll help that big block turn a little better.
I'm the same way, i know lots of guys love the pro touring, but i'm into the drag racing look, or Pro street.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 01:49 PM
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I agree with David. Using the Landrum adjusters is soooooo much easier to deal with than cutting springs. Plus, if you need to raise the ride height the adjusters will do that, while a fixed length spring will require funky spacers.

Beware when the ride height gets too low. According to Dick Guldstrand the center of the sphere in the lower ball joint should be 1/2" lower than the center of front A-arm bolt. This helps to reduce geometry changes.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 02:10 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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Dennis, no way to easily move the rear shocks. I may try it on my 67 if I have time.
I got by pretty well without moving the shocks on my 67 by using Guldstrand three leaf rear springs.
David

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67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 02, 05:22 PM
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Imho, a set of cheap "slapper-bars" will control all the wheel hop your mono's will ever have if you want to install them and then take the time to "tune" them so that your rearend is loaded properly upon take-off. pdq67



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