Leaks in new brake lines Updated!! - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 03, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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It's time to seek help on this one. I just made all new steel brake lines for my car. I was very careful to make sure all of the double flares were made properly, not lop sided as they sometimes can be. I made everything so I could screw it together with my fingers, not made in a bind. All of the fittings are new. Now that I added fluid and started to bleed them I have leaks all over the place [img]graemlins/angry.gif[/img] [img]redface.gif[/img] .........

I have stopped some of them by tighting the fitting, but it seems like I'm over tighting them. Not ever doing brake lines before maybe that is how it has to be done.

I still have 2 joints that leak just slightly and I cannot tighten them any further. What am I missing here?

Dan.

[ 08-23-2003, 10:45 AM: Message edited by: Tire Smoke 69 ]

Dan.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 03, 02:15 PM
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For what it's worth, I usually try not to put the gorilla grip on the flaring tool when making my flares. That way, the flare will still be soft enough to form to the fitting. If they are really mashed thin and flat they sometimes won't seal well without torquing the heck out of them.

-dnult

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 03, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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That is something I never thought of. I did tighten the tool pretty tight. What you said would seem to make sense.

Do you not put the gorilla grip on both steps of the flare or just the final one?

Dan.

Dan.

327 Small Journal, Air Gap, Edelbrock 600 CFM,
Comp 262H-10
Vortec heads
M20, 3.08,
Vintage Air

1988 Porsche 911 Carrera 3.2
G 50
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 03, 05:00 PM
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Angry

dnult is right, I made that same mistake while doing some lines the other day. Since the first step of the double flare uses the die as a stop, you wouldn't have problem overtightening it, but in the second step, one need to be less "Hulk"

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 03, 07:33 PM
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If the female part of the fitting is used, there can be a mark from the old flare in the seat.
Classic Tube says to tighten, then back off the flare a quarter turn, then re-tighten to seat it better.
David

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 03, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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David, Thanks for the info. I loosened up everything and re tightend it and I do not have one single leak [img]graemlins/thumbsup.gif[/img] I thought I was gonna have to redo every line again. I will be careful not to tighten down the flareing tool as hard the next time I make brake lines.

Thanks to everyone who helped!!!

Dan.

Dan.

327 Small Journal, Air Gap, Edelbrock 600 CFM,
Comp 262H-10
Vortec heads
M20, 3.08,
Vintage Air

1988 Porsche 911 Carrera 3.2
G 50
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 03, 09:45 AM
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Wow!
No one is more suprised than me!
Glad it worked, thanks for posting back, now I can recomend it to others with more confidence.
David

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 03, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, it really floored me to. I never expected it to work but I was willing to try anything so I would not have to make thoughs lines again.

Dan.

Dan.

327 Small Journal, Air Gap, Edelbrock 600 CFM,
Comp 262H-10
Vortec heads
M20, 3.08,
Vintage Air

1988 Porsche 911 Carrera 3.2
G 50
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