Questions on Disc brake conversion - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 02, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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I am converting my 68 drum brakes to disc I got from a 72 Monte. Does the caliper go in front of the spindle or behind it? I read that you need to swap sides so that the steering arms go toward the rear but can the caliper go either way? Also is it possible to use the Monte's steering arms?
Last question: is it possible to replace just the rubber boot on the lower ball joint? I ripped one and I don't like the procedure I see in the Service manual to replace it. It takes special tools to press the old one out and the new one in. I guess if I were really smart I'd replace them all. They appear to be the originals (riveted in)
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 02, 07:21 PM
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caliper and steering arm go to the rear.
the monte steering arm won't work, it's too high.
Caliper can go to the front but would probably hit the swaybar and the brake hoses would not reach.
You can get replacement balljoint boots at the auto parts store. There are even polly boots available, but rubber is fine.
If still on the car, you can check the condition of the balljoints to see if they are worn, but I'd change them if you are going to have the spindle out.
You can buy a cheap balljoint press shaped like a C clamp at Harbor Freight. I use a bottle jack in a small simple home made welded frame and a couple of pieces of tubing.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 02, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks David, I'll see if Autozone has a loaner press like they had for the pickle fork.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 27th, 02, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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Well Autozone had a loaner press but none of the collars are the right size. The largest is 3" and won't fit inside the control arm, the next size down is 2.25" and won't fit over the ball joint. I guess I'll see if I can find a piece of pipe the right size.
Heck with it, I'm gonna watch the Rams kick some Eagle butt.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 02, 06:28 AM
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Winch,
If those are the original ball joints, i'd highly suggest you replace them! You will be happy you did, plus you get the new boots as well. What about the bushings? are they original? I would replace those as well while you have everything apart.

I have tried the poly boots and don't recommend them. they are small and just barely cover the ball joints and don't have any folds or excess area to hold grease in them. You will need to check and grease your ball joints much more often to keep them clean.

Good luck,
Bill C.


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 02, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks BC, I am going to replace the ball joints. Are you referring to the sway arm or the control arm bushings? I am going to do the sway arm ones but the control arm ones look like much more of a job. If I read the book right you have to remove the springs and control arms to do those. I'll let ya know how it comes out.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 02, 01:27 PM
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Winch, if you are planning to replace balljoints you should remove the springs! It is also easier to replace balljoints with the arms off the car. If the arms are off the car it is only a little more work to replace the bushings. If your bushings are original I strongly suggest you replace them. Worn out bushings can cause damage to your front end components.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 02, 03:40 PM
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Winch,
if you are replacing the ball joints, then you will have to remove or at least release the springs, so you are most of the way there already. I was also refering to ALL the bushings in the front end, control arms upper and lower, sway bar, and shocks. It is a sizable job, but not really that difficult. Again, the hard part is getting the ball joints loose and since you are already doing that...

Feel free to ask if you are not sure about anything...

Bill C.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 02, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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I succeeded with replacing the lower ball joints last night. I think I will remove the upper control arm so I can put it in a vise to chisel off the uppers. The manual makes it appear the bushings have to be pressed out/in. I'm not set up to do that but I'll call around to see who will do it and how much it costs.
I'm not confident about removing the spring to get the lower off. How do you check to see if those bushings are bad?
As far as the rest of the front end I'm going to replace tie rod ends, idler arm, and sway arm bushings. Anything else?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 28th, 02, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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If I do drop the springs I guess I should replace them too. They're only $55 from D&R. The catalog says to order by engine size, standard or heavy duty, and with or w/o A/C. I guess I would want them for small block (car was 6 cyl). Would I want HD or standard and if the car doesn't have A/C but I want to go vintage air someday should I get them for an A/C car?
And then there's the shocks. I will search posts here to see what I should get. Somebody recommended 90/10 if I want to drag race. Not sure what that is. The car won't be strictly a racer but I'm sure it'll see a little of it
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 30th, 02, 01:46 PM
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OK, maybe I'm missing something here, but how do you replace the lower ball joints without removing the coil spring???

I guess you could put a floor jack under the lower arm but lookout if the jack loses pressure and the coil spring is not restrained!

I know one thing for sure, I would never attempt such a repair without removing/ restraining the spring first. I like my skull in one piece the way it came from the factory !

So how did you do this Winch?

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 02, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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I guess I'm being watched over (Thank ya Jesus). I just popped em loose with the pickle fork. The sway bar kept it from dropping all the way down. I put a jack under it then and raised and lowered as needed. Good thing I didn't try to disconnect the sway bar at that point. I sure didn't realize what I was doing!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Jan 31st, 02, 06:32 AM
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If shocks and or swaybar are left on the lower A frame will not come out.
You should leave a floor jack under the lower A frame to support it.

I have a friend who removed the upper bushings by using a big pipe wrench. They just twisted out like they were unscrewing, even though they don't have threads.

I keep reading posts here expecting to read one where the spring flew out and hurt someone. I have a feeling it is going to happen sooner or later...
EVERYONE PLEASE BE CAREFUL! :EEK:
DAVID

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David's Motorsports page
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67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
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