Removing steering knuckle - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 01, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 80
Post

I am trying to remove the steering knuckle on a 68 Camaro for a disc brake conversion. All the hardware is loose and my "fork type" pry bar is not working. I've done this once before 10 years ago and it's driving me crazy. I don't remember taking apart the shocks or springs. I know this is simple, WHAT IS THE ANSWER? Any help? Thank you for any detailed tips!! Steve

[This message has been edited by Sgrouse (edited 12-26-2001).]
Sgrouse is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 01, 08:20 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: SoCal
Posts: 205
Post

Try a tierod end remover. Just make sure you leave the nut on when you press it out, that way you don't damage the threads.
Allen M is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 01, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 80
Post

The "fork type" pry bar is a tierod remover.Forgot the name. It seems to be working but as soon as I pull it out, the spring or something seems to pull it all together again.

[This message has been edited by Sgrouse (edited 12-26-2001).]
Sgrouse is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 01, 06:37 AM
BC
 
Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 470
Post

By steering knuckle, I assume you mean the spindle? And you are trying to pop the upper and lower ball joints loose? If that's the case, you will need to remove the shocks and let the tension on the springs loose. BE CAREFUL! If you simply pop the ball joint with nothing to catch the spring or lower control arm, you will turn the spring into a deadly missle! Once the shock is removed, loosen the castle nuts on the upper and lower ball joints to give yourself about 1/4" space, but leave the nuts on! I like to put a jack under the lower control arm with about 1/2" of space to keep it from flying down and smacking the ground, thus releasing the spring. Then use the pickle fork to 'pop' the upper and lower ball joints, which you will be able to tell once they release and get caught by the castle nuts. Once loose, I then use the jack under the lower control arm to push the arm up and release the tension on the nuts. Then simply remove the castle nuts, and then SLOWLY release the jack and lower control arm to release the spring tension. Once released, the spring should basically fall out. Then I reassemble in the reverse order with new parts as necessary.

Hope that helps,
Bill C.


------------------
Bill C.
Colorado Springs, CO

68 Camaro... someday!
71 Chevelle SS
70 Nova
BC is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 01, 05:27 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 505
Post

One thing, Bill. I think I would leave the shock in to replace the spindle, this way the sping can't completely come free.

Gary
cavemate is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 01, 07:53 PM
BC
 
Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 470
Post

Gary, if you are just replacing ball joint and such and are reusing the springs, then I agree. I was assuming a spring replacement...

Bill C.
BC is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 01, 08:11 AM
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 21,341
Smile

And if the pickle-fork doesn't do very good, then use a three pound "Ford Tool" and wrap the sides of the spindles fairly good a couple a times top and bottom to loosen the ball-joint studs. Do one end and then the other.

BUT leave the nuts on loose and BE careful!!!

Set the car up solid and use the mentioned floorjack as backup under the lower A-arm to keep the spring from popping out!! pdq67



pdq67 is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 01, 12:02 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 145
Post

Try heating the steeering knuckle, and then use the tie rod fork. Just be careful and dont torch any rubber boots! Sometimes you can hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer and it will break it loose.
yogi is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 01, 12:02 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Los Angeles, Ca, US
Posts: 23
Post

Pickle forks aren't usually a good idea because you can easily tear a balljoint boot. I usually just beat the sh** out of the spindle.
It will be a lot easier with the shock out, but leave a jack under the arm.
72Nova is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 02, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 80
Post

Thanks for all the help! This is a great source of info. I plan to get back @ it this weekend. I found D&R Classics to be the best deal to buy my set-up. They have a conversion set w/ used & new parts.
Sgrouse is offline  
post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 3rd, 02, 07:19 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 251
Post

It really is best if you just loosen the nuts and then use the pickle fork. Don't take any thing apart until there a broke free. That way its a studier assembly to beat on.
red69camaro is offline  
post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 3rd, 02, 07:50 AM
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 125
Post

I have found the pickle forks to be a real pain. Instead, I use a 2 or three jaw gear puller. The rest of the procedure is as listed above.

Ed
Ed Bleich is offline  
post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 02, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 80
Post

Got them loose. Pickle fork worked but I removed the backing plate from the spindle. Got a better bite. Thanks guys. Thanks "BC".

Steve
Sgrouse is offline  
post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 7th, 02, 06:19 PM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 505
Post

Why do they call it a pickle fork? Who uses pickle forks anyway? I just reach right into the jar..
cavemate is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome