Body mounts and lining things up - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 03, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Jeff
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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guys,

In search of clearance for my hedman headers, im replacing my decaying stock body mounts with a set of detroit speed solid mounts.

a friend told me to do them one side at a time, so im starting on the passenger side. the back two go in fine. finger tight. but the one up by the radiator has two problems:

1) the hole seems a bit too small for the bushing. i have the correct one up front. i think ive got out all of the old rusty bushing, but i think that ill try to dremel it out to make sure... is there any danger to making the hole a little larger?

2) the subrame hole (lower hole) is shifted a little from the top (body) hole. i have read about these little .610" pins to align the subframe. is that what i need? where can i get some?

3) what procedure do you guys use to replace these mounts?

thanks guys!!!!

1967 SS 396, M20.
now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 06:30 AM Thread Starter
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Jeff
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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i got some alignment pins (thanks Dennis)

and the holes are deffinitely off a little. any suggestion on how to move the subframe around to get the holes lined up.

also, i still havent figured out why the hole is too small.... i went at the hole with a putty knife (to scrape away any more of the old mount), but its still too small.

any ideas?

thanks

1967 SS 396, M20.
now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 07:46 AM
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Rick
 
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When I put Global West solids in, I had to die grind out the front radiator support holes a bit to get thm in.

Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv therapy program, Autogear M22, 8-pt cage, with a new 410! SOLD
New therapy program - 68 Coupe. Will be survivor exterior, modern underpinnings! SOLD
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Jeff
 
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but if the hole is slightly bigger than the bushing, will that provide enough slop so that things become out of square?

also, any ideas on how to move the subframe around?

can i put a jack on each side and loosen all the bolts a little? or will the motor or drive line keep things from rotating around to where i need to be? i need to move the subframe about 1/2 inch... any ideas?

thanks

1967 SS 396, M20.
now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 01:00 PM
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How much are you off? Is it an 1/8" or more like a few thousands? Are bushings aluminum? What I'm thinking is that if you're a few thousands shy, they should seat properly once torque and weight is applied. Otherwise, sounds like you'll have to get a die grinder or dremal tool and carve it out a tad from below.

Those 5/8" holes are handy for lining things up in a couple of ways. One, you can stick a drift in there and manuver the frame around. Second, once you're ready to torque you can install a 5/8" alignment dowell in there to get things lined up perfect. A piece of 1/2" copper pipe works pretty good. Then again, my front end is stripped. With the front end assembled, you may find the copper pipe is good for alignment but not adjustement (i.e. it will bend if you try to move the frame with it in the holes).

There are also holes in the rear subframe near the spring shackles. There are a couple holes on the inside of the front subframe near the cross member. Lastly there is a hole dead center on top of the large K-member. Between these 5 other holes you can get a pretty good alignment by taking cross measurements with a tape measure. Just remember that it is probably more important to get the body work lined up that it is to be perfectly square. The factory may not have done a very precice job.

As for slop, there is quite a bit of slop in the frame mounts. You can probably slide it in any direction by as much as a 1/2", so you should haven't any problems...unless the solid bushings have 1/2" holes in them. I don't use solid.

If the front end of the car is installed while you're replacing mounts, just be careful with the fender alignment and such. Sometimes when you get your mind on a big rigging job like that you can loose focus on little things that ruin your day.

Get the alignment close and snug the bolts. Let the car down slowly and make sure nothing gets bent - like the fenders. Torque the bolts to spec once the car is back on the ground. This will also give you a chance to tweak the alignment (like doorgaps).

-dnult

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 03, 08:49 PM
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Joe
 
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Location: Benicia CA
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Angry

I had to move my subframe 1/2" as well.
I jacked the car up and let the body rest on long 2x6's on jack stands under the body/rocker panel area. This let the subrame hang free. I loosened the body bolts and then used a pry bar to center the subrame. Took measurements and used the guide pin holes as the pivot point.
It was easy and now my subrame is centered. Took less than an hour.

joe

Joe G

69 Coupe; ZZ430; TKO600; 3.55 posi; 13" Baer 4 wheel discs; 17" Billet Specialties wheels; Hotchkis/Koni rear; Ride Tech front; Classic AutoAir AC and power windows cuz I'm old and lazy!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 03, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Jeff
 
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA
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Joe,

was your engine in at the time?

if so, did you put a jack or anything under the engine crossmember?

thanks

1967 SS 396, M20.
now a 10.4:1 540, AFR 315 heads, UDHarold SR Cam with a Tremec TKO
jks67SS396 is offline  
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