SFC install - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 02, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Manteca, CA
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I've been searching the boards about subframe connectors and it looks like the "best" ones need you to cut out part of the floorpans and do a fair amount of welding etc. I like the Detroit Speed ones the most.

Well I have absolutley no welding or sheetmetal work experience or equipment, so I'm looking to have someone else do the install.

I called Speed Merchant in San Jose CA and they wanted about $2000 for the labor!!! And thats with no interior !!!!

There no way I can afford to spend that much of my budget on just the SFC's.

I know I can get bolt ins and then weld them in, but since I'm lowering the car 2 inches, I'm concerned about the ground clearence issues.

Anyone out there with experience with this install want to help a brother out ????? I'm willing to pay, but not $2K.

Or recommend a good shop in the central CA area ????
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 02, 01:58 PM
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John
 
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that is definately a rip off... I would try calling some different places, or maybe someone on the board can help you out.

Good luck.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 04:24 AM
BC
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That is definitely a rip-off, it's not that hard! If you would like to drag your car out here to Colorado, I'll help you for little more than some beer money! I'm not familiar with the Detroit Speed ones, but there is a guy on the boards here CarlC. that made his own and saved tons of money. I think he said the cost for materials was under $20 and then we took pictures along the way of installing them. He basically connected the front subframe to the rear in a straight shot so he cut the floor and then welded everything back together. Looks great and I'm sure works great! Do a search for his name or user name of CarlC and check out his web site.

Good luck,
Bill C.


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Bill C.
Colorado Springs, CO

68 Camaro... someday!
71 Chevelle SS
70 Nova
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 05:18 AM
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Carl
 
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Click on the link below for the installation pics and descriptions.

BC's right, it's really not that hard to do but it is time consuming. If welding is not your gig there are still ways to cut costs significantly. Buy/fabricate the connectors youself, then go buy a 4" angle grinder. A cheapie from Harbor Freight Tools for $25 will do the job. Pick up a few thin slitting blades at the same time. This is the only non-standard tool, besides a welder, that you will need to do the job. Using either the Detroit Speed connectors/instructions or my website pictures as a guide slowly start trimming away floorpan material away until you get the connector to fit properly. Then take the car down to your local muffler shop and have them welded in. You can also make the necessary patch panels and have them weld them in at the same time.

Good luck.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 06:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I guess I'm just being a puss, since I've never done something like this before.

I got an email from a friend that found out the Speed Merchant gave me a quote for a convertible car not a coupe. I guess with a convert, the install takes about 22-24 hrs of labor. The coupe takes about 10 hrs.

They're giving me a new price quote. I'll let you know.

If there is anyone local that would be willing to help me out, I would be eternally greatful !!!!!!

I just dont have the guts to cut it apart myself without some guidance from someone with actual experience in doing the install. I dont want to screw it up and have to pay more to have someone fix my mistakes.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 06:30 AM
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DRJDVM,

I have a 69 convertible. I had Speed Merchant in San Jose install the DS&E subframe connectors about six months ago. It was done in conjunction with a lot of other work but I don't think it took 20 hours of labor. It is somewhat labor intensive in that they do have to remove the seats and the carpet from the interior and then cut holes in the floor so the SFC's don't hang down so low. I am not sure why coupe SFC would be cheaper to install. The work that they did was exceptional and the installation of the SFC's with solid body bushings (also from DS&E) did the most to improve the ride. Take a look at the installation on Tony Huntimers web page (www.racehome.com) look under pictures for the build up of Bob Spears' car. If you have any questions or want to take a look at the car drop me an email ([email protected]).

cheers and good luck

bob spears

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 06:41 AM
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Rick
 
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The conv has the extra bracing under the floor pan that also needs to be sectioned out. $2000 is really telling you they don't want to do it. If the job is 20-30 hours or whatever, $30/hr +/- is much less.

------------------
Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips ( yet ).
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Bob- I sent you an email. I hope you may be able to help me out.
Thanks
ned
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 06:48 AM Thread Starter
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When I called, the guy I spoke with didnt seem to know much. The service manager was busy so I think he tried to find a previous customer in the computer and somehow came up with that number.

I had a feeling the guy was out of his mind, but I didnt push the subject.

I really appreciate your guys help.

Is there anyone other than Speed Merchant in the Bay area that had experience with this install ???
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I spoke to Mike at Speed Merchant, and he quoted me about $800- 1000. Still seems kind of expensive, but a hell of alot cheaper than the original quote.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 07:35 AM
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Imho, I ordered bolt-on S/F/C's from Jeg's, and feel that they fit fine and will be more then adequate fot my use. They don't hang down enough for me to even worry about. To me it is like my stock subframe has been lengthened, thats all!

Of course, I run "slapper-bars" that do hang low at both springs.

I highly suggest getting a set of bolt-on S/F/C's and if you think they aren't solid enough, then by all means have them welded solid in position later. That's what I am going to do if I don't think they tie my car together good enough! pdq67



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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 08:57 AM
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Gene
 
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pdq, which brand did you buy - CE?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 01:34 PM
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David Pozzi
 
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Talk to Rodger Krause the Goodyear tire dealer in Castro Valley.
David

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67 RS 327 Origonal owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 02, 01:38 PM
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I forgot, whatever Jeg sells. And the only hassle was using a 4.5" angle grinder to cut the heads off the six front spring mount bolts after the cheap GM "clip-nuts" broke and spun! Really no prob, but still a bother! pdq67



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