Dear Mr. "Funk"
I'll try to elaborate a little more, but this could be a whole 'How to' in one of the mags. This conversion is very straight forward without having to purchase the kits from the various aftermarket guy's, not that there not any good, just a large investment for some.
You can buy the set of Spindles complete from Jim Dyer as I stated and have done many times OR if you have the time and resources locally (read junk yards) you can look for old Nova's from the 70's that have Disc front brakes and salvage the parts from them. I've done both to about a dozen plus Camaro's over the years and they have all worked great! The amount of scrounging and cleaning you need to do is the major difference.
I always completely clean, paint and rebuild the assemblies before I install them and use new bearings and seals etc...
The brake hose from the frame to the Caliper will have to be changed to a Disc type. Use the hose for a 72-73 Camaro with front disc. (don't have the number here at work, but I can get it later), they run @$40
You really can use any dual master cylinder if you replace the residual check valve in the front outlet with a open orifice type so no pressure is held on the caliper, but I replace the original drum type with a Disc Type off of a late 60's early 70's chevy pick-up as it has a larger piston size (better pedal feel) and is the Delco/Moraine type used on many early chevy disc brake set-ups. These are easy to find at most Auto Parts stores, just keep looking through the stock numbers until you find the "roundish' one with a 1 1/8" bore. The 1 1/8" bore cylinder is plenty for most applications, but if you want an even larger bore (1 1/4") use the one off late 70's 3/4 ton pick-ups with H.D. Disc (camper specials used these), these work well with big-blocks without power brakes.
There are a lot of questions about the use of a pressure delay valve, like the ones located under the drivers seat on factory A/C unit Camaro's. This valve was to delay the pressure signal to the rear brakes on these front heavy models to prevent them from locking up the rear before the front during hard braking. I have done conversions on cars with and without this valve and have found that if the larger Moraine type master cylinder is used and all the brakes are rebuilt and in good order rear brake lock-up is not a problem without the valve.
Sorry this ended up so long - but we're talking about brakes and it's best to have more info than necessary if you are working on them ( and there is any chance you may be behind me in traffic).