Car lifts of jackstands - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 02, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Question

I just jacked up my car now in the front(and 2 jacks on the frame before it bends up to engine with half pressure).

I havent removed anything yet except for the swaybar. I did a little test to lift the lower A-arm with the floorjack to see how much i need raise it with my rubber block on the floorjacks cup. But I was supprised that the suspension or spring didt move 1 inch, instead the whole car lifts of the jackstands??? Why is it doing like that? Should it not be easier to compress the spring when it has less pressure on it?
So now i wondering how im going to do, it feels almost as it is stuck, but when im lowering the car with wheels on it dosent feel like its stucking, it moves just as i should.

Any ideas? Could it be that the shock is stucking?


HELP Please. =)
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 02, 03:16 PM
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Is the motor out of the car? I have never heard of this happening with the motor in before.

Perhaps there is some problem with the lower arm...maybe bent or bound to the frame?

There should be some compression of the spring if there is enough weight on the frame.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 02, 07:02 PM
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Where did you put the floor jack on the A-arm? You need to make sure you get as close to the ball joint as possible for the best leverage. I just replaced my front springs last night.

Rob

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 02, 07:38 PM
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Are you jacking it up under the control arm? If you are, the closer to the inside you jack it up, the more load is going through the bolts instead of the springs. The further out you go, the more load is carried by the spring. (on mine, anyway)

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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Yes the engine is in the car. I tried to draw a picture of how i jacked up the car: http://www.hyperwerks.se/fiero/camarors68/jacked.jpg

I dont have enough room to place a floorjack in the rear because of a wall, so i must raise one side at the time, to raise the rear ill have to turn the car around and drive in with the front into my parking place.

Could it be caused bye that angle the car gets from my jacking?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 02:51 AM
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I've seen this before,with real heavy big-block style springs.I once knew a guy that had to run a 2x4 from his frame up to the roof of the garage to keep the car from lifting off the jack stands.I hope that's not your situation.Try using a lever inserted into the hole in the lower a-frame to increase the jack's mechanical advantage.Good luck.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 04:22 AM
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I've always used a long 5/8" threaded rod in place of the shock to compress the spring. Use a large warsher on top, and a thick steel plate on the bottom.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 06:49 AM
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Read this out of the archives. There are several methods including mine.
https://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum7/HTML/000586.html

Jody
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the inputs.

The reason why the suspension didn't move was that my jackstands i putted in the front crossmember did probably distort the alignment a bit so the controlarm locked in the frame. So i just rearranged the jackstands and putted more pressure on the rear:er jackstands, so after that it worked, i have already removed the drivers side complete. Goning to do the passenger side tomorrow. My back could't take more today. =)

Its a bit boring that i must take my controlarms to a shop to remove/install the bushings.

And one more thing i noticed is that the upper inner shaft, that on thats bolted to the frame, seams to have little offsetted holes compared with the ends on it, i mean the centre of the holes dosent look the same as the centre of the machined ends.. Is it a differnce and if, which side should be up?

Heres a pic on the part i talking about: http://www.hyperwerks.se/fiero/camarors68/shaft.jpg

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to ask, is there ant cheaper priced Pitman arms than PST's for $100.00. Feels a little expensive.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 09:47 AM
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Go to your local Partshouse and ask for a pittman that you need. And, yes places like Rareparts are driving the parts costs up!! pdq67

PS., I used my cheap air chisil and did my own install after a shop quoted me something like $100 to do them. Do a search b/c everybody has given execellent advice on what has worked for them. And it's not that hard to do. pdq676



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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all input.
Im gonna see what i can do about the bushings in the control arms. They are pretty stuck in there.

And today im gonna try again to seperate the centerlink from the pitman arm. I whacked it i think 100 times yesterday and its still stuck. I have new energi now, so here i come Mr Pitman... =)
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 02, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Today i managed to remove the rubber bushings on my controlarms. Now i just have the metalsleeves and balljoints to remove. Then im gonna try to tap the new bushings in, ill try to put them in the frezer before so the get little smaller.

And who knows, i might be done with the front end this weekend, and then can start with the rearend.

Thanks again for all your help.
Magnus
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 02, 05:32 AM
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I am doing the same thing on my 68. I just hammered the old innershaft bushings out with a hammer and chisel. I had to cut the top off of the riviets and drill a little to get the upper ball joints out. The lower ones I just beat out with a BFH (big friggin hammer). I bead blasted the control arms and repainted them --they look great. Now I just have to reassemble them!!
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 02, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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kausboy:

Now im finished with the metalsleeves aswell.
This is how i did it:
Used a drill and drilled lots of holes in the rubber, so i then "easily" took out the rubber with a large screwdriver. Then i used a saw and sawed a horizental line so i chould contract the sleeve, got some small gash though, but i guess the controlarm will hold together anyway.

So now the new bushings are in the freezer and waiting, then ill have to hammer out the balljoints.
Btw, my upper balljoints was bolted in, but the one that did it, spot welded the nuts... Grrrr.

Thanks
Magnus
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