Need help with Body Bushing install - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 03, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Hello all,

Yesterday, I started the job of replacing my old rotten rubber body bushings with new poly bushings.

I removed & replaced the driver's side mounts, one mounting point at a time starting at the rearmost mount. All of the old rubber bushings came out OK with some effort. Some of the collared washers that extend through the upper and lower rubber buscuits were fairly corroded. I cleaned up all of the washers and bolts on the wire wheel and re-painted as best I could.

I positioned all of the new poly bushings and lowered the car down. All of the bolts tightened up to the proper torque specs. except for the body mount closest to the firewall.

This mount seems only to torque to about 25 ft. lbs. I can keep tightening, but all that seems to happen is that the lower washer is bowing in and the lower bushing is being compressed.

I pulled the bolt back out and had a look. All looked normal. The bolt is not cross threaded or stripped. I'm wondering if the nut inside the body is turning slightly as I tighten?

I don't like the idea of leaving it at just 25 ft. lbs. torque.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mark P.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 03, 03:25 PM
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The nut shouldn't turn very far inside the cage. Not enough to do what you're saying. That is, unless the cage is broken. Can you get a flashlight on it and see, or have someone watch it as you're torqueing the bolt?
The only other thing I can think of is the body mount itself is damaged and the nut\cage are turning together, or coming through the mount.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Hwystarjoe,


I did have a peek up into the mount with a flashlight when I pulled the bolt back out the first time. I could see the nut in there but couldn't tell much about it.

Is it possible to see the nut/cage from inside the car or some other angle?

Thanks,
Mark P.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 03, 03:58 PM
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Sure thing Mark, you can see the two front mounts from the engine bay. There are 4"x4" square holes in the firewall just above the cage\nut assemblies. They'll probably be partially blocked by the inner fender braces but you should be able to see the cage\nut with a flashlight. Someone posted a pic of that area once but I can't find it. I'll post one so you know what I'm talking about.....



Sorry for the crappy picture but you can see the square nut (dark area) inside the opening in this shot. The cage is missing on this one though but you'll get the idea. This is the drivers side with the frame still mounted.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 03, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks again Hwystarjoe!

Now I know where to look...I will have a helper try to look through the hole in the firewall to see if the nut/cage is turning while I tighten.

If it can't be seen that way, I will pull the bolt back out again and temporarily remove the lower poly bushing. Then I will start the bolt up into the nut/cage while I observe with a flashlight from below. Hopefully, between the two, I can see what's happening to the mount.

One thing that may be causing my problem is that the lower washer has a fair amount of pitting corrosion that may be weakening the washer,thus allowing it to bow in as it is torqued down.

Thanks for the Pic!

Mark P.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 03, 05:39 AM
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As with any external hardware, coat the threads with antiseize compound. You will definately appreciate this later in life. More than likely, a new washer is probably needed. One made from 1/8 thk steel plate using the old one as a pattern, would do just fine. Be sure to prime and paint it to prevent rusting, or make it from stainless steel.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 03, 03:15 AM
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Hey Granny

I don't know if you got your problem fixed but i ran into the same thing and i just welded the nut because the cage was toast. It took a few tries to get a good enough weld but worked for me. HTH


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 03, 03:18 AM
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Hey Granny

I don't know if you got your problem fixed but i ran into the same thing and i just welded the nut because the cage was toast. It took a few tries to get a good enough weld but worked for me. HTH


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 05, 07:56 PM
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Re: Need help with Body Bushing install

I have ran into a similar problem, trying to remove the driver side firewall bushing the nut is spinning under the cage. It looks like the cage has expanded out to where is will not hold it any more.The cage is not spinning, so my question is can the cage be pressed back into shape to hold the nut or am I going to have to find a way to weld it back together?
Thanks
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 05, 04:40 AM
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Re: Need help with Body Bushing install

Mark, Energy Suspension has install kits, for some reason they are sold separately from the bushings themselves. Includes all new proper bolts, washers and sleeves





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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 05, 05:56 AM
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Re: Need help with Body Bushing install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Granny's 69
This mount seems only to torque to about 25 ft. lbs. I can keep tightening, but all that seems to happen is that the lower washer is bowing in and the lower bushing is being compressed.
Sounds like the blot is tightening just fine. Sounds more like a cheap washer/steel. Can you get a second washer on there? double up ?

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