Bolt on traction bar recommendation? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Bruce
 
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Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

I'm building a mild 327 so I don't need anything radical at all. The regular bolt on traction bars are fine for me, but I want one that fits, ie, the snubber hits the front spring mount. I also don't want to sped a fortune. It's going on a 67 Camaro.

Any suggestions?
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Mods, could you please move this to the transmission and driveline forum? Might work better there.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 05:06 PM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

This is the brand I used back in the sixties on my '67 (the "L" for Lakewood beneath the Jenkins Competition logo).



Today they are called Competition Engineering instead of Lakewood due to number of corporate change overs. Unfortunately they no longer offer the longer bar that had a strap to control brake torque as well as engine torque when accelerating. And you have to check on flea-Bay for the "J-bolts" that replace the stock "U-bolts" (on low horse powered cars they used "T" bolts) to really allow for refined adjustment.

Just like the Grump you can put your stocker in the nines with these bars attached.

Big Dave
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 06:33 PM
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Don
 
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Couch, You didn't say what your current suspension consists of. Many that run slapper bars , have mono leafs and try to make do.

If you are an avid racer and have multi leafs, consider Caltracs but they are not cheap. Determine what you will be doing with this car 90% of the time.

Don
TC # 349
Zdld17:69 Z/RS,306, NOR141111, 9N554XXX, 12A, X3G, 59/59,723, AFR 195,CCC282/290HR, TKO 600, BU1122B1E Owner since Dec 1968

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 07:17 PM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

With a 67 you don't have staggered shocks so spring wrap/wheel hop is a major problem.

On the cheap slappers will work ok. Caltracs would be best but not cheap.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 08:10 PM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

I have slide a links and really like them, same as Caltracs(sort of). Worked much much better then the slapper bars that came off.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblockragtop View Post
I have slide a links and really like them, same as Caltracs(sort of). Worked much much better then the slapper bars that came off.
Never heard of those. I'll have to check into them. My main concern is that they fit properly.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Bruce
 
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larger Dave View Post
This is the brand I used back in the sixties on my '67 (the "L" for Lakewood beneath the Jenkins Competition logo).



Today they are called Competition Engineering instead of Lakewood due to number of corporate change overs. Unfortunately they no longer offer the longer bar that had a strap to control brake torque as well as engine torque when accelerating. And you have to check on flea-Bay for the "J-bolts" that replace the stock "U-bolts" (on low horse powered cars they used "T" bolts) to really allow for refined adjustment.

Just like the Grump you can put your stocker in the nines with these bars attached.

Big Dave
Thank you for the input. I have to ask, Jenkins and Grumpy?? Any relation to the legendary Grumpy Jenkins?
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdld17 View Post
Couch, You didn't say what your current suspension consists of. Many that run slapper bars , have mono leafs and try to make do.

If you are an avid racer and have multi leafs, consider Caltracs but they are not cheap. Determine what you will be doing with this car 90% of the time.
It's coach, not couch LOL.....

Stock single mono spring rear. I ran the same setup in the 80's with a bolt on that was too short. I had a friend braze on some extensions so it'd hit the mount instead of the spring. I raced every weekend with that setup, almost ALWAYS finished in the money.

I think the bolt ons are fine for milder engines. This car will be 99.9% street use with an occasional trip to the strip.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 17, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larger Dave View Post
This is the brand I used back in the sixties on my '67 (the "L" for Lakewood beneath the Jenkins Competition logo).



Today they are called Competition Engineering instead of Lakewood due to number of corporate change overs. Unfortunately they no longer offer the longer bar that had a strap to control brake torque as well as engine torque when accelerating. And you have to check on flea-Bay for the "J-bolts" that replace the stock "U-bolts" (on low horse powered cars they used "T" bolts) to really allow for refined adjustment.

Just like the Grump you can put your stocker in the nines with these bars attached.

Big Dave
I apologize, I looked it up, that is Grumpy Jenkin's car. I was a HUGE fan back in the day, I had his book memorized (I mean that literally) back in the day.

He was an innovator and an inspiration to me when I raced.

So - how are you related, and where is that car?? I'd love to see it sometime. Hopefully in a museum somewhere?
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 17, 05:04 AM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

That was a car. In the period before the Vega that was a real approachable bunch. We would chat with them at test and tune days in early spring at the grove. That car had the first set of Lakewood bars I ever saw and they helped me get a set of them. They were unequal length and if you torqued them wrong you were coming out sideways.

67RSSS......owned since 69. A basket case for most of it.
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 17, 07:48 AM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coach62 View Post
It's coach, not couch LOL.....

Stock single mono spring rear. I ran the same setup in the 80's with a bolt on that was too short. I had a friend braze on some extensions so it'd hit the mount instead of the spring. I raced every weekend with that setup, almost ALWAYS finished in the money.

I think the bolt ons are fine for milder engines. This car will be 99.9% street use with an occasional trip to the strip.
Coach, My apology, this is what happens when the fingers don't do what the mind is telling them .
As for the leaf springs, If you happen to be on a set of 4 leaf sets, you may not need those bars.

As for the Grumpy book, I have it as well as Smokey Yunick, I used many of their tricks running H/mp on a 55 Chevy sbc 301.

I think Grumps 68 Camaro prostock car was found in a classified ad in New Jersey. Complete car 427 was sold for some $3700.

Don
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 17, 08:30 AM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-traction-bars

These are slide a links
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 17, 09:59 AM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

Grumpy invented and marketed his patented J-bolt traction bars through Lakewood. Slapper bars and a pipe withing a pipe traction systems have been around since the thirties. So when I say he invented it he took his mechanical engineering knowledge (Cornell University) and modified a U bolt to make the bar adjustable side to side to compensate for uneven weight shift and the fact that limited slip rear ends even when stuffed with two extra clutch plates didn't always clamp uniformly. This may the car drive off at an angle. Hard to compensate with the front wheels in the air so Bill worked on the suspension so that it drove the car straight ahead.

The bar he designed also had two u-straps that clamped the springs to the bar stiffening the spring into a trailing arm (truck arm suspension) with the back of the spring holding the car up. Cal-Trac from Calvert Racing took the old 1930 pipe within a pipe system and modifies it into a poor mans four link with two adjustment points. The spring becomes the top control arm while the pipe bolted to the rear end becomes the bottom control arm. The springs have to both hold the car up and prevent side to side movement.



Larger Dave
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 17, 11:42 AM
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Re: Bolt on traction bar recommendation?

That would explain the help I got. I asked them about it one weekend and the next weekend they handed me the end of a box with the label on it. Didn't know they were Bills bars. No one at the speed shops around here had heard of Lakewood at that point. I got the bars through a regular parts house. I remember sliding around under the Camaro with one of the crew and looking at the bars and just gawking at the rest. I spotted a couple of micro switches on the shifter and asked about them and was told they changed the dwell angle.....little details.

67RSSS......owned since 69. A basket case for most of it.
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