Brake Bleeding - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Elroy
 
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Brake Bleeding

So I'm preparing to do some rear brake work on the 69 drums. I have researched and read numerous threads about people not getting fluid to either the front or rear brakes during the usual wife/girlfriend assisted brake bleeding process. It seems that the Distribution Block has a slide valve that moves when it detects a loss of pressure front or rear. If this is accurate, then it seems impossible to bleed the brakes by the traditional pumping method. You're always going to have a no pressure situation forcing the valve to move.

So if is an accurate description, then it seems that the only way to effectively bleed the brakes is by a Mithgy Vac hand pump type of system that pushes the fluid (and air) back into the master cylinder or by a pressure system that directs fluid to all four wheels at once.

What say you?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 12:45 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

The distribution block is not a valve but a pressure sensitive spool. The pic explains what it does.

credit Camaros.org graphic
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67 Plain Jane being assembled with 427, 4 spd Muncie, 12 bolt rear with Mosers, 4 wheel discs

Last edited by gordr; Jul 27th, 17 at 12:46 PM. Reason: credit
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brake Bleeding

So if I understand this correctly, it just activates the switch. It doesn't move to shut off fluid from the front or rear. I was under the impression that it would close down the front or rear based on detecting a loss of pressure.

Thanks for the info............
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 01:06 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

I'm pretty sure the spool isn't spring loaded to the center. It also blocks off the leaking system when it moves to one end hence the reason one side doesn't bleed well when the valve is activated. So, it really is a valve that also activates a switch.

I believe it takes a fair amount of pressure to move the spool. Once it's moved to one side the opposite system must be opened and pressure applied to move it back into position. You can never really tell exactly where the spool is when you do this; you can only stop when the light goes out.

My method is to remove the plastic switch and fabricate a plug to thread in the block to simulate the switch with an immovable pin that keeps the spool centered as you bleed the brakes in case you get a little aggressive with the pedal pumping.

You can also purchase them.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 01:13 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Look here:


https://www.camaros.net/forums/16-bra...ml#post4013162

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 02:02 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69-er View Post
That proportioning valve would be different than the distribution block the op was referring to, the newer proportioning valves tend to be all in one, eliminating the distribution block and metering valve that the original setups had. In my old all original 67, since sold, it had that setup and it was actually harder to bleed to the front brakes than the rear as it was designed to hold off the front brakes until the rears grabbed first.
Camaros.org has a good description here: Camaro Brake Valves

67 Plain Jane being assembled with 427, 4 spd Muncie, 12 bolt rear with Mosers, 4 wheel discs
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brake Bleeding

OK, so going back to my original assessment, you will not be able to bleed the brakes the old fashion pumping way without that centering valve. Without it in place, the valve will move and prevent fluid from getting to the front or back.

I thought I'd read all the related posts and come to find out it was a fairly recent one. Thanks again for all the info and Summit page attachment.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 02:25 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Elroy, let us know how you make out. Frustrating at times and brake fluid dripping here and there which is why I buy the cheap DOT 3 fluid gallon jug at NAPA.

67 Plain Jane being assembled with 427, 4 spd Muncie, 12 bolt rear with Mosers, 4 wheel discs
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Quote:
Originally Posted by gordr View Post
Elroy, let us know how you make out. Frustrating at times and brake fluid dripping here and there which is why I buy the cheap DOT 3 fluid gallon jug at NAPA.
Will do...............
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 03:12 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Brake Bleeding

It does not stop flow if it is off center, it's just a switch. Even if your light is on you can still bleed the old fashioned way. Once you are done bleeding the brakes and have a solid pedal with all bleeders closed, give the brake pedal a few hard stabs - this will re-center the shuttle and turn off the light.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 08:51 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

If you plan on doing this more than once or your helper resigns, get a Motive power bleeder, they are not too expensive and work really well IMO.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 17, 09:25 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Gravity bleed it. Works great.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 17, 02:06 PM
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Re: Brake Bleeding

I use a mighty vac. The sell them at sears and are only about $60.00. Not much money if your my age and plan on bleeding out many more brake systems. I buy only the brake fluid I need to flush the entire system out once. Brake fluid absorbs water. Once a bottle is open I use it all. Don't crack the seal and put it on the shelf. Water is the worst thing for your breaking system. Keep the master cylinder full and start at the furthest brake from the master cyl move on till your done. Get caps for your bleeders. Disassemble the mighty vac when your done and wipe it down lasts longer.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 17, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Brake Bleeding

Ok, over the weekend I bleed the brakes with the wife at the peddle. The reason I had to bleed the brakes in the first place was because the rear flexible line was leaking. I'm sure this was the original line.

So I go to the RR and open it and a good solid stream of fluid comes out. Same with the LR. Brakes bleed up beautifully. I then checked the old line. I blew into and very little air came out. I've read, most recently as today, that the flexible line will collapse over time. I would highly suggest to anyone having rear bleeding issues to replace this line.

As always, thanks for all the responses.
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