Booster or no booster - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Booster or no booster

What is the benefits of one and if i decided not to use one what type of master cylinder would one use?

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
Ridetech rear 4-Link


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 19, 08:08 PM
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I’d for sure talk to whoever is supplying your brakes, to make sure everything is
is sized correctly and compatible.

I use a 7/8” bore master for my manual 4 wheel disc setup.

1968 Butternut Coupe,
421" Dart SHP block
TKO 600 RR
Dutchman 9" w/3.70 US Gear Lightning r&p
Speedtech torque arm,Ridetech HQ coilovers
Global West arms
Budnik wheels

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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My master has a 1-1/8¬Ē bore

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
Ridetech rear 4-Link


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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 03:12 AM
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Re: Booster or no booster

I have a 1" on mine with 4 wheel disc

'68 Camaro with RS conversion
Moser 9" with 4:11
Martz Chassis 4-link and Front Sub-frame
Tremec T-56 Magnum 6 speed
572 BB - CM Engines
Wilwood 6 piston front and 4 piston rear disc
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
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Not sure if i want to run one or not
Would like to clean engine bay up

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
Ridetech rear 4-Link


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 04:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikeike View Post
I’d for sure talk to whoever is supplying your brakes, to make sure everything is
is sized correctly and compatible.

I use a 7/8” bore master for my manual 4 wheel disc setup.
How does the pedal feel and the stopping power?

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
Ridetech rear 4-Link


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 06:04 AM
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Re: Booster or no booster

The benefits are much lower peddle pressure required to stop or slow the car assuming you have 10+hg vacuum. If you want to clean thing up under the hood you could drop the booster but you will have to deal with increased peddle effort which might not be a big deal if everything is sized correctly.
I'm running a CPP wheel disk conversion kit and the booster is essentially useless after I touch the brakes one time because I have low vacuum. The stopping effort is't bad enough to warrant buying an electric vacuum motor or switching to hydroboost - maybe someday but here in Wyoming the roads are loooooong and stoplights few and far between.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 06:09 AM
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Re: Booster or no booster

I do not run boosters on my Protour builds however I do run big brakes with 6 piston calipers. Pedal pressure in not much more than with a booster.

Pedal rod need to be in upper hole and you need a 7/8 or 15/16 bore master.

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69 Z28/RS Tribute355/5 Speed (SOLD)
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stamatisg1977 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ilikeike View Post
I’d for sure talk to whoever is supplying your brakes, to make sure everything is
is sized correctly and compatible.

I use a 7/8” bore master for my manual 4 wheel disc setup.
How does the pedal feel and the stopping power?
With the manual and a 7/8” bore the pedal is not as firm right away like an assisted or larger bore MC. It has more travel than a larger bore that’s moving more fluid quicker.
But it has good feel and stopping power is good. 12.88” disc 6 Piston in front with polymatrix type E pads. Rear are 11” gm. I have 12” 4 piston sitting here that I’ll be installing this year along with the torque arm suspension.

I’ll have to see if I need to move to a 15/16” bore at that time.
Either way, I prefer manual on this car/engine.

1968 Butternut Coupe,
421" Dart SHP block
TKO 600 RR
Dutchman 9" w/3.70 US Gear Lightning r&p
Speedtech torque arm,Ridetech HQ coilovers
Global West arms
Budnik wheels

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 25th, 19, 08:53 AM
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Simon
 
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Re: Booster or no booster

The camshaft you select for your engine build will really determine whether vacuum assisted brakes will work optimum. Higher LSA increases engine vacuum while lower decreases.

Some use Hydroboost as an alternative.
Hydratech Braking Systems :: Frequently Asked Questions

A good person for you to talk to about the pro's & cons, pressures, master cylinder diameters is Tobin from Kore brakes, very helpful and knowledgeable guy willing to help one understand before making brake upgrading selections.

Here are examples of parts used when doing an LS conversion, when space is a concern.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ac...+cylinder,1836
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...29nc/overview/
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 26th, 19, 04:14 AM
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Re: Booster or no booster

Absolutely love my set-up! 1" bore MC, Wilwood 6-piston dynapro in the front and 4 piston dynalite pro in the rear 12.19 inch rotor all around. More than enough to stop my BB quickly and safely. If you upgraded to a bigger rotor, I would expect it to get exponentially better. I originally had 11" disc up front(wilwood) and drum in the rear with a 7/8 bore manual set-up and it was good, but this is amazing!
Might just be in my head, but the mechanical brakes seem to give you a better "feel" of the handling during braking.
With my new truck and all the advancements in technology, It was a learning curve to get used to it. As I was braking and getting close to stopping, I would be on the brakes harder getting worried I wasn't going to stop in time. Not like that at all with the Camaro.

'68 Camaro with RS conversion
Moser 9" with 4:11
Martz Chassis 4-link and Front Sub-frame
Tremec T-56 Magnum 6 speed
572 BB - CM Engines
Wilwood 6 piston front and 4 piston rear disc
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