Guldstrand Mod Question - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 26th, 19, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Location: Daphne, AL
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Guldstrand Mod Question

I have used the template to mark the new holes. The rear hole falls right on the portion of the frame where it starts to curve. When the cross shaft mounting bolt is inserted through the frame, the underside of the bolt head will not lay flush on the bottom, only about 2/3 from the top and down the sides will contact the frame, if that make sense. Is this normal?? Or am I overthinking this too much?
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 26th, 19, 09:42 PM
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

I just took a quick look at mine after mod and I have at least an inch of clearance at the rear bolt head from the frame. If you want I can try and take a picture of it tomorrow. Which side of the car are you looking at? I assume your talking about rear bolt head. Is your sub frame out of car? Perhaps we can trade pictures via e-mail. When I did it we made a template that we tacked to the subframe. Let me know
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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 19, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

This car is complete minus the front suspension, so subframe is in with motor installed. This is a picture of the passenger side. I am using the template from the back side of the mount to mark my holes for drilling. I placed the template on the engine side just to mark where the holes would be so I could see where the cross shafts will sit. With the rear hole not on the flat of the mount, the cross shaft will not lay flat against the frame. I know there will be shims installed, just want to make sure that all others who have done this mod had the rear hole fall on this curve.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...xkEtZpVmX4T52c

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...abNJ2K7PeL4I0g
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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 19, 10:22 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Chris, This is what the mod should look like. I grabbed the pic from a 2015 Super Chevy
article. Is the area you're questioning what I have marked in red ?
Link to article:
How Four Holes and a Bit of Time Can Dramatically Improve Your Car?s Performance in the Turns


Al

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 19, 12:35 PM
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Beth
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

[/quote]

That's how they should look except you will have to trim some off the top unless you use tubular control arms.

From Pozzi's website : You will have to trim off the upper mount area down to the old holes for A arm clearance, (if you use your stock A arms). You will not be able to go back to the old holes unless you weld material back on, or don't trim the top of the mount because you used Tubular arms. Tubular arms will clear the mounts, so no need to cut off the old holes.

68 Camaro convertible, 6.0 LQ4 with LS3 heads, Vintage Air, 750 street demon carb, eddy perf rpm, GM hot cam, Hooker headers, 4L80e, 12 bolt, 3.55 gears

Last edited by NashvilleCat; Apr 27th, 19 at 12:45 PM.
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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 19, 07:54 PM
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Craig
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

My bolt locations appear to be be very close to the picture that was sent out of super chevy. I can’t get a good picture of it without removing wheel. Mine would look a bit different as I cut my perches off the subframe, shorten them and then relocated them. My sub frame 2as out of the car when I did i. Highly recommend do8ng the modification.
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 19, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by allanjs View Post
Chris, This is what the mod should look like. I grabbed the pic from a 2015 Super Chevy
article. Is the area you're questioning what I have marked in red ?
Link to article:
How Four Holes and a Bit of Time Can Dramatically Improve Your Car?s Performance in the Turns

Al, yes that is the area that I'm talking about. I haven't drilled the holes yet....just needed some feedback first. I looked at that same article and read through a lot of posts on this subject. Just didn't realize that the rear hole wasn't completely on the flat until I marked it.
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 19, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleCat View Post
That's how they should look except you will have to trim some off the top unless you use tubular control arms.

From Pozzi's website : You will have to trim off the upper mount area down to the old holes for A arm clearance, (if you use your stock A arms). You will not be able to go back to the old holes unless you weld material back on, or don't trim the top of the mount because you used Tubular arms. Tubular arms will clear the mounts, so no need to cut off the old holes.[/QUOTE]

Yes, understood......I am using SpeedTech tubular UCAs and they would not clear the mount when using the stock holes. The mod is the only way I can get them to fit.
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 19, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agitator View Post
My bolt locations appear to be be very close to the picture that was sent out of super chevy. I can’t get a good picture of it without removing wheel. Mine would look a bit different as I cut my perches off the subframe, shorten them and then relocated them. My sub frame 2as out of the car when I did i. Highly recommend do8ng the modification.
If my engine was out, and the front clip was off then I would definitely go that route. More work, but a better end product.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 19, 07:42 AM
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by racinrod67 View Post
If my engine was out, and the front clip was off then I would definitely go that route. More work, but a better end product.
I would highly recommend replacing the upper a-arms with tubular ones so you don't have to cut your subframe.

68 Camaro convertible, 6.0 LQ4 with LS3 heads, Vintage Air, 750 street demon carb, eddy perf rpm, GM hot cam, Hooker headers, 4L80e, 12 bolt, 3.55 gears
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 19, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

I know that the actual lowering front/back and setback dimensions that have been discussed thoroughly here on this message board and the Pro-Touring site ranges some. I think its interesting that the picture included in the Super Chevy article really isn't accurate. According to the template pictured in the article, the holes will be lowered .75"

I have used a scaler program to measure the dimensions in this picture with a known dimension. Since the original cross shaft mounting bolt holes (.440") haven't been altered, I can plug that into the program and then measure the new hole distances in the picture. The front was lowered approximately .625 and the rear approximately .605 a big difference from the .875/.775 front/rear that I am planning to lower mine.........if I follow the current Guldstrand template.

That is why in the picture included in this thread, the rear hole looks to be located mostly in the flat area of the mount, but if it is drilled further down to the suggested .775" the hole starts into the curved portion.
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 19, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleCat View Post
I would highly recommend replacing the upper a-arms with tubular ones so you don't have to cut your subframe.
I am trying to install SpeedTech's tubular control arms, but they won't clear the mount. This was their solution, to relocate the holes. As you can see from the picture, there is plenty of clearance on the front tube, none on the rear..........

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...KSPZsoSBzLbB-s
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 19, 09:33 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Chris, Are you scaling the pic of the template or the pic of the frame on the car ?
When I scale the template it's pretty much dead on the 3/4"(.75) hole lowering
dimension. I feel the template is more accurate due to it being a 2d drawing. The
frame pic may not be a straight on view causing more of a 3d view and create inaccuracy
when scaling. My understanding is both mounting holes are to be lowered 3/4" (.75)
and moved rearward 1/4" (.25). I actually scale 3/16" (.1875). Overall I would suggest
using the given dimensions of 3/4" and 1/4". Verify the hole to hole centerline dimensions
with your cross shaft prior to drilling. Just my opinion.

Al

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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 19, 09:34 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by racinrod67 View Post
I am trying to install SpeedTech's tubular control arms, but they won't clear the mount. This was their solution, to relocate the holes. As you can see from the picture, there is plenty of clearance on the front tube, none on the rear..........

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...KSPZsoSBzLbB-s
Pic link errors out.

Al

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 19, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Guldstrand Mod Question

So I am trying to figure this out.......I know that I need to drill the new holes rearward .25" to get the clearance I need for the arms, but should I go just low enough to leave the proper amount of steel between the new and old holes for strength........probably close to the .605" like pictured in the SC article. This will still gain caster and allow the cross shaft to lay flat against the mounting surface but will not be as beneficial in regards to camber. I'm not going to race this car, just drive it on the street.

I'm concerned that if the rear hole is lowered .775" and the cross shaft lays on the curve then it will have to be shimmed out further than it would actually need to be for proper alignment to account for this. Maybe, maybe not? I only have one shot at this and want to drill the holes in the right spot. Need some guidance from the gurus here.
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