Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings? - Page 2 - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 19, 10:08 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Roger, The torque specs are in the AIM. UPC 1 D1.

Al

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 19, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by allanjs View Post
Roger, The torque specs are in the AIM. UPC 1 D1.
Thanks Al..I was looking in the "chassis" book, not AIM.....

Interesting all 3 positions have different TQ values with the rear one being the most
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 19, 05:03 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Roger, The radiator support nuts torque is 30-40 ft lbs. The 4 body bolts are 75-95 ft lbs.
I'm not sure where you're seeing a difference in the 4 body bolts unless we have different
versions of the AIM.

Al

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 19, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Al

"My" AIM shows: pg 43 Sheet D1 UPC1

Radiator 30-40 ft lbs
Mid 40-50 ft lbs
rear 75-95 ft lbs

My AIM is the red & white one in my pic I posted

Got my new OER bushings today...considerably thicker than the old, flattened, dried out ones in the car now. I suspect my x member will now slide out easier vs BFH method should I need to remove it in the future

I have had the rear bolts out before when installing my sub frame connectors. The bolts themselves looked OK but I did buy the "bolt kit" also from OER and will be replacing all the bolts, washers & nuts involved
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 19, 07:53 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Roger, I have the same AIM. You're not interpreting it correctly. Item #12 is the bolt
for all 4 body locations. Now look at item #12 in the upper part of the page. Next to
it is a 3 inside of a triangle. Find the 3 inside of a triangle in the lower left area of the
page. It states 75-95 ft lbs. The same applies to the nut item #6. It refers to 1 inside
of a triangle. I think what is confusing you is the triangles and their numbers being
interpreted as positions.

Al

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post #21 of 25 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 19, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Thanks for the translation Al...I see it now
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post #22 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 19, 09:33 PM
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Check out my youtube segment on this DLK014

1967 base hugger orange 383 stroker
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post #23 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 19, 07:28 AM
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

got a link?

1967 RS/SS Coupe, Factory A/C, 2nd owner, original paint -Taho Turquoise 3 Spd on the floor, bench seat, fold down rear seat

1967 RS Convertible Factory A/C, PS, PB PG 327
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post #24 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 19, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Niblet View Post
got a link?
If you cut/paste his# the video comes up. That video is more about what he did vs "how" (read showing install process)

...IMHO this is a much better "how to install" vs the one mentioned by post above yours


I like the note about the bumper bracket bolts for core support bushings in the above link. Also note the shot for the mid bushing install you see the body to frame ground strap is stretched tight so keep in mind that when lifting body from front clip

Going to try and do my install today if I have the time
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post #25 of 25 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 19, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rubber Sub-Frame Bushings?

Bushings installed.

I have done body bushings on other cars but not a 1st Gen. Following R&R method of video in my above post worked well.

All old bolts broke lose without drama, didn't need penetrating oil. I did have to disconnect the body/frame PS ground strap to allow the body to lift high enough. Also had to remove vs loosen the primary bumper bracket to frame bolts. 2 each side. The new bushing is quite a bit thicker than the old compressed ones that came out so had to get the body off the frame a good 1"+.

The old bushings were the originals and some (tops) did take some prying to get them off/out but nothing complicated. I used a scotch brite to clean off all mating surfaces and a rat tail file to clean up bushing holes. There was really no rust to speak of other than some surface dust that easily cleaned off. I used the OER bolt /washer/nut kit (grade 5). The OER rubber bushing kit all fit very snug.

Body is a good 1/4" higher off the sub frame. Went for a good drive and then did a re-torque. All were the same as installed.

These bushings will out live me :-)
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