Had a thread under a different topic, so thought I'd share my reviews, issues, and photos here.
I previously had all stock: coils w/spacer, kyb shocks, and multi-leaf springs. The ride height was good/aligned. I also had 235/45/17 & 275/40/17 tires. After asking for help choosing a suspension kit, many advised that my rear tire setup would cause rubbing etc.. so I downsized the rears to 245/45/17.
I ended up getting the Ridetech StreetGrip suspension, and just had it installed. Overall, I can't explain how happy I am with the handling/comfort difference.
However...the only issue that's causing me pain is finding the best solution to align the ride height. Currently, the front is too lowered compared to the rear.
I've been asking around, and speaking to some of you. I've been told to go with lowering blocks and some suggested to just get 2" leaf springs from summit.
Note: The ridetech leafs are mono, and my perches are multi-leaf.
I'm about to order the Ridetech 1" lowering block for Multi-leaf, but looking at photos below..I doubt the 1" will help align the height much. This is what it looks like now.
I spoke with Ridetech, since they have this photo below of the streetgrip with the height aligned, yes meatier rears but still perfectly aligned. They suggested to go with the 1" lowering block. The other reason is the quarter in my car is rounded vs this 69..
I think the 1” blocks will help you in the back. Is the vehicle realigned to the new Ridetech specs? Have you driven it much? If not the springs (especially the rear might settle. I would use this pic for your reference because there is a slight difference between 67-8 vs 69. Having trouble attaching a picture at the moment but look at the other pic in the add for the green 67/8 for new measurements.
1" block will only lower 1/2" so I think you'd be good too. Love my street grip too. Wish mine was 1/2" taller in back. I'm hoping the front settles just a tad.
Is that true, 1" will only lower 1/2"? .. if that's the case then I probably need to go with a 2" to drop the rear and have it as closely aligned as the fronts.
I think the 1” blocks will help you in the back. Is the vehicle realigned to the new Ridetech specs? Have you driven it much? If not the springs (especially the rear might settle. I would use this pic for your reference because there is a slight difference between 67-8 vs 69. Having trouble attaching a picture at the moment but look at the other pic in the add for the green 67/8 for new measurements.
1" block will only lower 1/2" so I think you'd be good too. Love my street grip too. Wish mine was 1/2" taller in back. I'm hoping the front settles just a tad.
The stance of this car has me seriously questioning Ridetech’s engineering and/or quality control. I had a similar issue with a Street Grip package for an A body car.
Surely they can do better or at least include the lowering blocks in their kit. Not sure what to make of the front being too low.
The stance of this car has me seriously questioning Ridetech’s engineering and/or quality control. I had a similar issue with a Street Grip package for an A body car.
Surely they can do better or at least include the lowering blocks in their kit. Not sure what to make of the front being too low.
I have the Ridetech front SBC lowering springs (progressive) that claim a 1 1/2" drop. I got 1 5/8". I used 2" lowering blocks on my rear mono leaf and got 2" drop from that.
You will need longer U bolts when adding 2" blocks
I have the Ridetech front SBC lowering springs (progressive) that claim a 1 1/2" drop. I got 1 5/8". I used 2" lowering blocks on my rear mono leaf and got 2" drop from that.
You will need longer U bolts when adding 2" blocks
I bought mine from Speedway. I also got the 2 degree shims to correct the DL angle which changed because of the lowering blocks. You may or may not need them so just check DL angle once the blocks are installed
IDK what, if anything, is different about Ridetech lowering blocks as I don't have their rear end kit, just used their front springs. Summit, Jegs, Speedway all sell the same type of lowering block
EDIT:
I see Ridetech has a specific kit to use with their Ridetech "Street Grip" kit that claims 1" drop so IDK if "regular" lowering blocks work with their set-up
I bought mine from Speedway. I also got the 2 degree shims to correct the DL angle which changed because of the lowering blocks. You may or may not need them so just check DL angle once the blocks are installed
IDK what, if anything, is different about Ridetech lowering blocks as I don't have their rear end kit, just used their front springs. Summit, Jegs, Speedway all sell the same type of lowering block
Majj, Because these are composite springs I wouldn't use anything but Ridetech's
products without speaking with them first. Personally I think you'll be happy with
with Ridetech's 1" rear lowering kit and a 3/8" spacer under the front springs. Keep
in mind the 67's and 68's rear wheel arch is higher than the front arch by ~3/4" when
the car (sub frame) is sitting level. It's not going to look like a 69. I would start by
adding the rear lowering kit and see how it looks. It may be just fine without adding
the front spacers.
Majj
In your other thread eville asked if the shop tightened the shackles with the weight on the car suspension. Excuse me if I am wrong but I don't think you verified they did it correctly. I'd go back to the basics first.
I purchased the street grip kit for my 1967 Camaro. Now my rear end sits almost 2 inches higher in the rear. I purchased the 1 inch lowering block to see if it would help but it didn't. I also get major wheel hop when floored. Really I should of kept my Hotchkis kit and used that instead. I would not buy the kit again.
I hope you haven't ordered those rear spacers yet. If this is what your install looks like today switch everything from below the spring to on top of the spring and see what it looks like then.
Which control arms are you using? Wonder if you have stock or aftermarket (with a drop built in). I would call Ridetech for the alignment specs. I am pretty sure you don’t use stock alignment settings on this suspension.
1) The rear looks like its settling, tiny bit lower now. I was told the leafs need like 300 miles to fully settle/adjust.
2) I'm rubbing more upfront, due to bumpy roads or when braking hard. I think I might need that 3/8 spacers
3) Should I install the rear lowering block first and see if it helps level out the front ? or it doesnt work that way? if it doesn't then ill just install the block + 3/8 spacer
4) Alignment: I got one last month when my alignment was way off. now the car is straight/steering straight... however what is the ridetech alignment? you think an alignment will help the front rubbing issue somehow?
If you used the original factory alignment specs then it needs to be redone with new specs. I thought Ridetech supplied specs but based on your pics I would suggest
-.75 degrees camber
3-4 degrees caster or as much as you can get
1/8” toe in
The negative camber will help mitigate the rubbing a little.
If you used the original factory alignment specs then it needs to be redone with new specs. I thought Ridetech supplied specs but based on your pics I would suggest
-.75 degrees camber
3-4 degrees caster or as much as you can get
1/8” toe in
The negative camber will help mitigate the rubbing a little.
yes the front is settling, hence more rubbing. you may want to buy 3/8" and 1/2" to combine shipping cost in case the 3/8" don't raise it enough to stop the rubbing.
if in fact the spacer does get you 2x the height than a 3/4" spacer gets you 1 1/2"....which at that point is the distance the Ridetech lowering spring gave you over your stock spring so at that point the stock spring would have been fine with your tire size.
I am only noting what a user posted in their review. I have not used coil spring spacers before so don't know what the real "net" height gain is with them
I would not stack them though if in fact you needed the combined height using a 3/8"+1/2" spacer. I would just use a single 3/4" spacer
Alignment (castor), tire size and wheel backspacing are also factors in addressing tire rub. As you have discovered your suspension, now installed, is settling (normal) so now you need to make some "adjustments"
OP. We all feel your pain with the installation of the new suspension. I don't know if there's any aftermarket product that just "bolts on" and works perfectly. There's always seems to be some fine tuning to do. I think you should raise the front of your car until it stops rubbing, bumpy road or not. Bring a friend with you when testing also, you most likely will carry a passenger with you at some point. Once you get the front of the car to a safe height with no rubbing, start lowering the rear to where it pleases you. IMHO no amount of tire rubbing is safe. It tears up your tires and could cause a blow out at speed. My car is a 67 and is lowered 3 inches and I have had 5 people in the car with no tire rubbing whatsoever.
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