All, I can say this is all great information, but me without a college degree
I am having a bit of a hard road understanding it.
So I have two 69 verts, heavier and with a different balance than coupes. I want to keep them as stock looking as possible, but will replace things if they are hidden or look stock.
327 car has stock front end, decent gas shocks, but with 6320 springs and 1" solid sway bar, rear is re-arched factory monos with poly end bushings, but rubber isolators. I also have solid subframe bushings. stock 14x7 rims with 215-70/R14 BFGs.
I am using the 327 car as a test bench for car #2 an SS350.
So I did my best to get a good alignment to improve the handling (using Dave Pozzi's settings, pretty sure I got a good amount of positive caster). But what I am experiencing might be helped by this information here, so I want to get a real world scenario and fix.
So I am little confused about bumpsteer, understeer & oversteer.
The issue I have is when coming hard into a curve:
1) if I just gradually ease into curve, the car goes in fine, but at the "apex", inside edge will rise up and the car will dart to inside of curve and I have to back off the steering input to stay on track. Car sawing back and forth if I don't keep a tight line on it.
So I use method 2) when entering the curve, I will put more steering input in to raise the inside edge of car at beginning of curve ('pre-loading it'), then back off steering a bit, so I can keep the rest of the curve centered without decreasing steering input.
So what issue do I have?
And can it be corrected by the taller ball joints? If so, which one, just the upper, or both? Can I keep the stock A-arms and rubber bushings? Front end is already pretty low to the ground, so I need to keep some space between subframe and a-arms.
Thanks for any advice!