Sub frame connectors - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
 
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Sub frame connectors

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I am considering installing sub frame connectors on my '69 Camaro. What will the effects be? I have heard everything from firm to harsh to bone-jarring ride will result. I'm not crazy about weld in connectors, but are bolt in's as effective?

Another consideration, as a half way measure is to install the convertible model floor pan reinforcement. Is this thought worth persuing? I'm trying to eliminate some of the body flex. This is a street car that gets launched from time to time.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ray
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 12:09 PM
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Bryan Hall
 
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Re: Sub frame connectors

i have the competition egineering bolt ons on my 69.. i love them. they were really easy to install and i have felt no kind of harsh ride out of them. my car is a daily driver so it sees everything. of course the weld ons will be stronger but the bolt ons serve a purpose too. my car seems to hook better and just feels more stable when i get on it hard. for only 100 bucks you cant beat them. i know they are some better looking ones out there like dse and global west but they are pricey and may need the floor pan to be modyfied to fit them but that is a personal choice..hope this helps

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 02:11 PM
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Cool Re: Sub frame connectors

I bought the Competition Engineering bolt on for my '68 convertible. These required cutting my floor pan, which I welded in place. I also cut the spring cups off, using the original leaf spring holder. I welded the connector end, directly on to the new rear frame rails. In the front, I bolted them to my sub-frame, so I can still disassemble the tub.
They look great, but have no idea how they handle, yet.. (my engine is still on the stand)..
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 04:03 PM
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Re: Sub frame connectors

We put Comp Eng frame connectors on my 69 rag top . We had to notch them(piece of cake) and they bolted right on. At the same time I swaped out the body bolts and installed poly ones from energy suspension, the ride is 100% better. The door frames dont sag when we put the car on a hoist, I have no complaints about the ride. Nice and tight, no rattles.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 06:43 PM
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Bob
 
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Re: Sub frame connectors

I put a set of Comp Eng bolt in's on my 69 coupe. Absolutley no problems whatsoever. The car feels 100 times tighter, smoother and stronger. I have a 502, glide w/brake. I do recommend that after bolting in, running a few miles, pulling a couple of hard launches you retighten the bolts and have them spot welded on the subframe and along the top of the rear spring perch on the frame rail. The connectors aren't hanging down and actually are tucked up pretty close to the floor pan. They look fine and serve the purpose well for the price. You can do it yourself with very little knowledge, not hard at all.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 06:49 PM
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Re: Sub frame connectors

I have been looking into this too and found these on Ebay...item number 4612043331...I have emailed a few people that have bought them and they said they are great. I was thinking about welding the back and bolting the fronts so that in case I ever needed to remove the subframe it would be a lot easier...
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 07:42 PM
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Craig
 
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Re: Sub frame connectors

The seller says they are bolt in, but I don't see how you could bolt them in the way they are built. With those mounting surfaces, I'd say that you would get minimal effectiveness from them. I may mock up a set similar to that and have a guy I know make them for me. I'll weld them though.

Should they be installed with the car on flat ground, or on stands? If you place the jacks under the subframe, (as he has it in the picture, just in front of the rear body mount) is it possible to experience some frame flex as it rests on the stands? After all, the weight of the whole front end is hanging off the ground as those stands are basically about right in the middle of the car. Am I crazy?

Craig


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 11th, 06, 08:00 PM
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Re: Sub frame connectors

That is a good question...I would assume you would install them with the weight on the ground or supported so that there is no flex...maybe weight on the ground, tac them good enough and then raise it to finish welding them...maybe someone else that has installed them will know.

As far as bolting them, you would have to drill the holes, which I would assume you would need to do with any other bolt on setup. Unless there are holes that the other connectors bolt to on the subframe...then again, drill the holes with the weight on or the car raised up???
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 06, 05:12 AM
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Re: Sub frame connectors

I left my Comp. Eng. bolt-ins loose at the subframe connections until the car was on the ground, then torqued the body to the frame. Actually, I waited until the engine was sitting on the frame first, then tightened everything up, wheels on the ground.
Very easy install.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 12th, 06, 11:19 AM
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Thumbs up Re: Sub frame connectors

I got my bolt-on S/F/C's from Jegs.. The cheaper "Jegs" ones..

Good ones, imho..

AND now is a very good time to install either poly or aluminum S/F bushings too...

pdq67



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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 06, 11:26 AM
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Re: Sub frame connectors

Competition Engineering bolt on here too. 67, was fairly easy and can't complain about the ride.


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 06, 06:16 PM
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Mike
 
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Question Re: Sub frame connectors

I would say something else is going on there? I have GW's in my vert and its setup real stiff with coilovers and my ride isnt bone jarring harsh at all, my buddy went with DSE's in his coupe and his ride is the same as mine very controlled but not bone jarring. BTW were also both running aluminum body bushings as well as Del-A-Lum bushings. It almost sounds like it binding then releasing harshly.

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