bleeding brakes no fluid - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 06, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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bleeding brakes no fluid

I went out today and bought one of those vacuum one person brake bleeders. I have a 69 camaro power disc brakes, and the car has just been through a frame off every nut and bolt restoration. I filled the master with fluid and went to work on the left front, opened the bleeder, activated the pump, and nothing happend. I did this several time with no result. After this I went to the bleeder valves on the master cylinder. opened them up and nothing. I even went so far as to undo the brake lines out of the master cylinder, and nothing, bone dry. Went inside, pushed brake peddle and still nothing. What could be the problem? Everything is brand new (which means nothing).
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 06, 06:55 PM
 
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

I figure that you need to get a Buddy and first bleed the M/C and then continue starting at the pass. rear wheel!!

Worked for me b/c my middle Son helped me when he was a kid back then..(Say about '85)...

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 06, 06:58 PM
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Smile Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

I would recommend you do what I did when I bought one of those bleeders:

I put everything new in the brake system... new pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders, hard lines, springs, etc. had the rotors and drums turned, even took the hubs apart (don't do it) and removed all the rust and put them back together. The I went and got one of those one-man brake bleeder vaccuum pump thingies. I thought about using it, but then I had a better idea.....
I put it back on the shelf, found someone who knew brakes, paid him for his time, had him check over all the brakes and help me bleed the system. When we were done I had confidence everything was good to go.

But, when we did go to bleed the brakes it took quite a while to get the system to "squirt". He said that we needed to start at the "furtherest point from the master", which was the passenger rear..... then to the driver rear, etc. Not sure if this is what you "have" to do, but he seemed to know what he was talking about.... except for the part about using a "Zip Tie" when he dropped a "C" clip and couldn't find it. LOL

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 06, 07:11 PM
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

When everything is new (i.e. completely empty) it will take a while to fully bleed the brakes.

One option is to fill the MC, crack the bleeders, and let it "gravity bleed" overnight. Also want to bleed the MC itself first.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 06, 04:17 AM Thread Starter
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

When you bleed the brakes with the peddle you start at the farthest wheel, when you use vacuum you start with the closest wheel to the MC. I tried bleeding the MC but no fluid comes out the bleeders, and there is nothing coming out of the lines, tough to bleed if you can't get the fluid to flow to the lines. I have bled several brake systems over the years and have never experienced anything like this. Also I did have my son out there pushing the peddle down and nothing. I'm thinking the MC is bad. I left the bleeders open last night, we'll see what happend this morning.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 06, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

OK, went out to the garage and nothing. I took off the MC and when I undid the lines they were dry. Took the MC over to t he bench pushed in the plunger, with no lines on it and not a drop of fluid came out of the line holes. Now, it's has been a few years since I've bled a MC, but if I remeber correctly if you push in the plunger with the lines cracked your going to have DOT three squirting out all over the place. would I be correct in assuming that the MC is defective? It was an eBay rebuild purchase.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 06, 05:23 AM
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

Kurt, I replaced the whole system in my car, all new. First you need to bench bleed the MC. you get some short lines and attach them to the MC and curve them into the MC bowls with lid off. depress plunger many times until you get fluid with no bubbles coming out of lines. Install MC in car, borrow my 1 man brake bleeder. clamp bleeder to full MC, add 10-15 psi pressure to bleeder and crack rearmost cyl until fluid comes out. Check MC often, you dont want to drain the MC. bleed and repeat. Worked well for my orange car.


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 06, 05:28 AM
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

Quote:
Originally Posted by KURT
I took off the MC and when I undid the lines they were dry. Took the MC over to t he bench pushed in the plunger, with no lines on it and not a drop of fluid came out of the line holes.
On the return stroke of the piston, you must plug the hose fitting so when the piston returns, it sucks fluid from the reservior.

Perform this feat several times to bleed MC.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 06, 07:35 AM
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinW
...borrow my 1 man brake bleeder. clamp bleeder to full MC, add 10-15 psi pressure to bleeder and crack rearmost cyl until fluid comes out.
That looks like something I could use. Would you mind giving me a step by step on how to use it and how to make it?

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 06, 08:06 AM
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

You just need to make something that seals the MC. I used oak and a "help" MC seal glue on and an air fitting. The low pressure pushes the fluid without cavitation (bubbles) you get when pumping the brakes. I just lets a lot of fluid out quickly, so you have to check the MC reservior often. If you get air in the lines, you have to start over.

Kevin


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 06, 10:19 AM
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Re: bleeding brakes no fluid

I just went through the whole process last week.

First, you MUST bench bleed the MC properly. Your local auto parts store will have a bench bleeding kit for $4-5 - as mentioned above, it's just a couple of fittings with tubes that run back to the reservoirs. If you do this, and don't get any fluid running through the MC, then I'd say it's defective.

Once the MC is bled, I'd highly recommend one of these:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

For $55 you can't go wrong - it flat works and it's simple to use. Hook it to the MC, pour a can of fluid in, pump it up and bleed your whole system in 15-20 minutes. I imagine a brake shop would charge you more than the price of this neat tool.

If you lived in Portland you could borrow mine!

PS - Oh yeah - if you have the metering valve on your disc/drum system, read this thread.

https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=84628

PPS - Also, make sure you have the correct rod coming out of your booster. The power disc system uses the long pushrod. If you have the short one in there it'll never work.


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