Vintage Wheel Works - Team Camaro Tech
Wheels & Tires What fits what?

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 01, 03:15 AM Thread Starter
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Rick
 
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I've been looking at the 48's.

Chacane - I see in your posts that you have their 45's. Can you share anything about the company/products?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 01, 09:37 AM
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Chacane,

More specifically, how do your 45's fit in the front. I am very interested in the 45's, but after talking to vintage they said that they are a tight fit and might rub with a 245 tire. I would like to run 245 at all corners. My 68 has untouched front wheel wells that sit about 26.75 off the ground (at the center of the wheel lip). In your opinion would a vintage 45 with a 245 tire work? Would it rub? How close is it? Any help is much appreciated!
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 01, 06:13 PM
 
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My choise with the Vintage wheel works was dependant on a couple of things. First, I dont know if any of you guys have ever done any serious racing. One very often overlooked product is the wheel. I was at Laguna Seca at a vintage event and the guys at V.W.W. were video taping cars through turn one. Well, when you slow the tape down on re-play, you can see the wheel deflect...A-LOT. I truly mean A-LOT. Not to knock a great product, but, American Racings Torque thrust in a 15,16,17,18,20" wheel is only load rated at 1650 lbs. 'Ok' you say, but the tire itself is only load rated to 1650 lbs.!!!! A tire is actually like a supplimental suspension spring. The sidewall absorbs alot of shock. If the tire goes at 1650, the wheel isnt much farther behind. And then you end up replacing more than just a tire, like maybe your car.

The V.W.W. line of wheels are load rated at 2250 lbs. which is considerably stronger. You look at the video and....no deflection at all. When you get into (let me first define fast, ok quick is an 11.0 second car. Fast is getting into a vechicle that has the ability to do 10.50ies and a top speed of 175 mph plus), this caliber of wheel at what they are asking is a no-brainer. You are looking at a wheel with a $500.00 each price tag, for about $250.00 each. You do the math.

Front fitment, well I took the spring out and fully cycled the suspension with a Goodyear 245/50/16 GSCS, and it did not rub. But it was CLOSE. REAL close. I will tell you that the use of Allen type buttonhead fastners in the inner wheel well is a good idea. (saves tires)

I will have to let you in on how I fit the 13" rotor in the wheel. It is a 16x8x5-4 3/4 wheel with 4 1/2" inches of backspace. Orginally Baer and the guys at V.W.W. told me it would not fit Looking at the wheel and brake templates I did also agree....so, I fabricated up a pair of 3/16" billet wheel spacers, which actually helped move the wheel fitment into a better location. The only interfearance was with the caliper and the inside radius of the spoke in the wheel. The spacer moved the offset into the perfect location. (I was lucky, I did my homework) Mind you that the interfearance is only with a fresh pad. With a used pad, the spacers can go away if need be. I actually do NOT like wheel spacers, but I run ARP 1/2x3"x0.625 knurl wheel studs, and the fact that the spacers are only 3/16" doesnt really worry me. The car has seen some hard tracks and some terminal velocities with out a wheel/tire, brake or wheelstud problem. And I will admit, I am not like most, I will not stretch the truth on how I drive, I drive the car hard, really hard. Being in the business, I need to know that what I do to my car is something I feel comfortable with doing to a customers vechicle.

I'm anal. I've built 225mph street cars for a living. I'd like to see the customer come back with that same smile I've given myself. ALWAYS PAY ATTENTION TO DETAIL. And I am an engineer, so, anal, German and an engineer.... I've gotta be a prick. LOL

Dont mean to offend anyone, if I did I truly apologise.

But that's story, I'm stickin to it.

If anyone has questions they need answered in a more technical or lamemans term, please e'mail me at [email protected] as some of the answers involved can be quite lengthly.

Tom

[This message has been edited by chacane67 (edited 01-15-2001).]

[This message has been edited by chacane67 (edited 01-16-2001).]
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 01, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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Tom, thanks so much for your insights. I had never considered deflection. I have a convertible with Global West front springs, del-a-lum bushings, solid body mounts, welded subframe connectors and stock ( probably original ) rear springs/shocks. This all helps but there is still room for improvement. For example, a roll bar. Do you know any company that offers this for a convertible? It seems I am going to have to have someone fabricate. Also, do you have an opinion of Edelbrock IAS shocks?
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 01, 01:38 PM
 
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As for the rear bar, I have Scott Hellwig make all of my custom stuff. You might want to call the guys at Hellwig to see if they will bend you one. I do know that it will probally run you about $100.00.

AIS shocks....well, good idea for a suspension that has a lot of travel in it. But our cars do not see the suspension travel where a shock of this design would benefit. Now on a truck, different story. I will say, I reccomend Bilstein over any other shock out there (next to Penske's) for a couple of reasons. I have done a lot of r-n-d with the guys at 'Stein and have spent a lot of money on swapping shocks around with different set-ups, and I have always come back to stuffin Bilsteins on the car. It has to do more with shock valving than anything else.

A little secret, I used to sell Edelbrock crates of shocks, (which I believe they wanted to find out the shock valving from part numbers purchased) to compile the info to build theirs. I used to work with Gary Neilson and John Hotchkis (we worked at Guldstrand together) until John went his way and Gary now runs the suspension division for Edelbrock. They are a comparable shock, yet the Bilsteins have it hands down over the AIS shocks when it comes to our needs.

Tom
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