When I first got the car up and running it was putting out good power. I could feel the torque at any power range. But once I shut it off she wouldnt start till it cooled off. So I checked my timing it was at advance 22-24deg. So I brought it down to about 10deg then to 12,16,now im at 18deg. All at this range the car WILL start when hot. BUT the 400sb is not putting out the power plus shes boggin or missing at High rpms, (i would say above 4500).My plan right now is to put it back to where is was (22,24) and see If I can get the power back and the bogging to go away. Just to kinda start back at the begining and trouble shoot from there. Any thoughts? Brad

what comp???might need a ministarter...check your ground and power cable for weak conn...

Im not sure on the compretion. I have a mini starter Tilton I think.

Have you been able to verify your total timing, while initial is important too, total is really the most relevant thing if it will start and run right. I have suspicion on your timing mark too, if you had 22-24 initial, it should have been detonating like crazy under full throttle. Have you verified that TDC is true acording to your pointer/ balancer?
How hot temperature wise, did it get?

Well My dad and I checked TDC yesterday everything lined up. We are still a little suspicious on the mark. For it to read 24deg it was way off my pointer. The timing pointer on the cover only reads up to 18deg. Also like 68rs406 said the initail at 24deg would cause detonation. Where in reality the motor ran the best I ever felt it and it sounded great. Just wouldnt start after. As far as running temp its never gone over the 1/4 mark on the factory gauge. Which I figure is around 195deg or so.

Tough to say then if the pointer/tdc mark line up correct. Is this a brand new motor, with a new cam etc.? It could possibly have an incorrectly indexed (retarded) cam.
All you can really do is verify timing marks are correct, make sure your distributer is in good working order, then go from there. It is an odd set of problems.
How did you check for tdc and the mark being correct?

No this is an older motor bored .30 over. Im running the all Mallory unilite set up. To check TDC we lined up the damper mark to the pointer at 0deg. Check for compretion stroke on #1. Then made sure rotor was on #1 plug. Thats why I wanted to put it back then go from there.
I just hope when I figure it out it will run hard like when it(supposedly at 24deg.) Cause man I feels like it has turbos!!!!!

You need to do a more accurate check of that pointer. They sell stops that screw into the plug hole and stop the piston before reaching the top. Get one, and get a timing tape too.

Turn the motor till the piston hits the stop (by hand!!!) and make a mark on the balancer where zero on the tab is. Then turn it the other way till it stops and make another mark. True tdc is exaclty halfway between the marks. Make a new mark if the old one is off, and put the timing tape on.

Then check both your initial and total advance.

I'm guessing your mechanical advance has a problem and is not advancing correctly if at all.

The first mark is approximately 180*F. The middle mark, 12 o'clock, is approx 210*F.

A mental check would be to feel when the thermostat opens on the upper hose, view the gauge. This will give a mental picture/idea of gauge calibration.

An easy way to check the total timing is to take a couple minutes and make a 36° BTDC mark on your balancer and use it to set the total timing. You won't need a tape or a dial-back light to get the total timing at 36° BTDC as your initial setting. If you want 34° total just line up the 36° mark with the 2° retarded mark.

Ok, thats what I was wondering, as Jim points out, you need to verify 100% true TDC or its all just a guess. The method he pointed out is cheapest and easiest, and the very next thing I'd do.
Also, getting timing marks on your balancer to determine tdc is important, either like onova points out, or just buy a cheap tape, clean the balancer and apply. All of these are cheap easy and necessary to properly tune your motor. Trust me, once you get that bad boy running properly, you'll be glad you did

I'll do as you guys suggested today. Ill keep you posted. Thanks gang. Brad

If that don't get it, I would start looking at the valve springs .

Was looking through the arcives and found this thread :

https://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...ght=spark+plug

Same 71 400 Its even bored. Same problem to the "T". His out come was dist. off a tooth and he never really drove it. So it might still rear its ugly head.
I'd like to hope mine's off a tooth. But when we checked it It was kinda at the point where moving one tooth either way wasnt going to line up better from what we could tell. Might just have to pull it and do it anyway.
I just went and moved it back to where it was making power. On the gun it was reading 24*. It ran strong, idled better,started when hot only thing was at high RPM's 4500-5000 bogging almost like a missing or sucking for air or gas? Not realy sure. Anyway when I have time I'll get it right. Maybe this weekend.

How does a distributor get "off a tooth"? You can put a distributor in any position and it will work provided the wires are in the right place.