Calling all Engine Builders.... - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Question Calling all Engine Builders....

I know that valve adjustment has been talked about ad nauseam, but I have a question that hopefully someone can answer.
I am finally getting back around to my car after about a year and a half, replaced the cam, lifters, & timing set. With the intake off I noticed that after the first time I depressed the lifter with a wrench, I could then adjust the lifter plunger by hand via the nut on the rocker. I could see exactly when the plunger began depressing. Following the adjustment sequence and tightening the nut until just before the plunger compressed, is it possible set zero lash visibily?? Then to set the preload by hand?? Or am I barking up the wrong tree...

Cheers

Kevin<P>68 Camaro SS - 383, Edlebrock Performer RPM, Trick Flow 23 degree heads, edlebrock 750cfm carb, dynomax headers, Tremec TKO, 3.73 Posi
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 03:12 PM
 
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

I sure dont want to be the one to say that the hyd. lifters have to be preloaded and the sequence be redone.Unless you build engines everyday[even these guys dont get it exact] you will have to re-adjust after run time. I had to re-adjust lifters every other month. I hammered the engine, even with 80 lbs of oil pressure
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 03:39 PM
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

correct procedure is to ensure the lifter is on the base circle of the cam.
while spinning push rod When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the nut down "Only" 1/8-1/2 turn. If you operate your engine a consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting (1/8 turn).
readjust after 200 miles as above and your fine after that.
need more info go here:
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp


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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 04:33 PM
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

For someone who doesn't do this every day, it's better to pull up and down on the pushrod to feel for zero lash than to do the "spin with your fingers" routine.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 05:36 PM
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

I cant see how hard spinning could be?
light resistance is felt then your spot on.
I even got my 16 year old daughter to do it right?
Its not hard really it isnt.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 06:46 PM
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

Kevin,
Your method will work fine.

Joe,
I dont hink I have ever had to readjust a hydraulic lifter after the initial setup.

Harry,
Some lifters have springs that are so weak that is is very difficult to tell when you get to zero lash unless you are very experienced. That is why I also tell my customers to jiggle the pushrod up and down rather than spin it.

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
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1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

It is not that hard, I just mentioned an observation I made today and was curious from other members.
I have other problems anyways, when I drop in the distributor and turn the crank, the distributor does not spin at all. No oil pump or oil pump shaft in it, plus the distributor gear is new. What started all this was a ground down distributor gear. I am now at a total loss as to what it may be.

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 07:15 PM
 
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK View Post
Kevin,
Your method will work fine.

Joe,
I dont hink I have ever had to readjust a hydraulic lifter after the initial setup.

Harry,
Some lifters have springs that are so weak that is is very difficult to tell when you get to zero lash unless you are very experienced. That is why I also tell my customers to jiggle the pushrod up and down rather than spin it.
you never rode with me!!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 07:20 PM
 
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

and yes you do have to re-adjust when your cheap and dont buy new locks, the lock nut after used for a while seems to crawl off on some the valves, I cant say if new ones will do it also cause I never had them. I will in the next engine.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 08:53 PM
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

If you're cheap, buy new stock ones. Better yet, buy polylocks (on my list for some day)
Note buy your nuts at a dealer, not a parts store. I used 16 new nuts when I redid mine, and ended up putting 6 of the 40 year old ones back on cause some of the new ones wouldn't stay in place.

yes Joe, I said nuts, go ahead and giggle!





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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 07, 09:56 PM
 
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Re: Calling all Engine Builders....

He, He!!

I love that the old spin the p/r's "feelie" method is being bantered about!!

Same way with lashing a solid cam idling!!

It's a "feelie" thing..

Imho, only way to do it right after she warms up!!

pdq67



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