This first picture is a fitting that I got from Summit for my fuel line. My question is, does the braided fuel line just slip into the center of this peice and thats it? Seems like it could easily leak if thats the case.


In this picture you can see that the fuel line is hitting the header. Should I just bend it inward towards the frame, which will give me about 1 inch of clearance? I have a tubing bender.


And finally this is the fuel guage that screws into the dual feed line for the carb. I thightened it up as much as I am comfortable with and it ended up upside down. Any ideas, or just live with it?


Thanks for the help, Darren

1) The braided line will slip over the barb on your fitting, then you tighten down the threads; it will tighten the hose connection.

2) Just bend the line toward the frame rail; it doesn't look like you'll even need a bender for the angle it needs to go, just give it a tug.

3) It looks like you'll have to live with the pressure guage like that. Doesn't appear to have a rotating feature to it.

Derren on the fuel guage you need to start it in the positon oppsite as you did the fist time.Back it out slowly until it comes of watch it closly as it comes off than turn it half way around and start it again until you are happy.It might take a couple of tries but you will began to see it lining up.

Darren,

Unthread the red portion of the AN fitting and put it on the end of your braided line by twisting and pushing. You want it to bottom out on the braided line. Then lubricate the threaded nipple on the blue fitting and thread it into the red part. I have a cable cutter that makes it very easy to cut braided line. Makes perfect clean cuts without any debris or fraying of the braid. You can borrow it if you like.

Here is a link to the hose assembly instructions: http://www.stockcarproducts.com/aqp1a.htm

I would move the fuel line to get more clearance between it and the headers. Don't over tighten the fuel pressure gauge. I noticed you used teflon tape on the fitting at the carb. That should be a flare fitting which doesn't need sealant.

Good luck and let me know if you would like to borrow the cutter.

Steve

Edit: I would also suggest a 1/2" plastic or phenolic carb spacer to insulate the carb from the heat of the motor.

The pressure gueage says once it is tightened that it can't be taken back off and retightend. I guess I'll have to live with it for a while at least.
I haven't decided what to do about the fuel line near the headers yet. I am worried that if its within an inch of the headers it might increase my chances of vapor lock. Thanks for the replies.
Thank you Steve once again for the link. Also I will remove the teflon tape on those fittings. The instructions said to put it wherever possible so I went a little crazzy with it.
The cut on the hoses look pretty good, but if i need it Ill let you know Steve.
Thanks for your help, Darren

Darren, you might think about replacing the main fuel hardline. The engine compartment portion of mine looked "much less rusty" than yours, yet, when I removed the line to detail the chassis, it FAILED. The failure was back by the spring perch, where the line is inside a spring. The whole thing was a rusty mess.

I used a stainless line (not recommended, the stuff is VERY hard, difficult to bend or flare. For the same reason you show, I straightened out all the factory bends in the engine compartment and routed the line completely on top of the frame.

The second line is a return for an eventual EFI system. I'm not real happy with the appearance of the new lines, they came in with those same bends that you show, and it was unbieleably tough straightening those tight 90's out of the stainless line! It is safe and secure and out of harms way tho.

This is prefect. Jim, you aren't having any problems with your fuel lines that close to the header? I understand that the closest one is the return, but the other looks in the picture to be half an inch from. The least experiened people on this site (like myself) have to appreciete it the most.
Thanks, Darren

Darren, it's the angle of the photo. Both lines are actually a good 3 inches below the header tube. She hasn't moved yet with the new lines, but I don't anticipate any trouble