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350 Rebuild - Help With Cylinder head Choice

1K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  pdq67 
#1 ·
Going to build a moderate 350 4-bolt main for my 69 Nova SS. I have the original engine but the block is cracked. I plan on holding on to it and the original heads (3927186) for SS verification.

I have a few different cylinder head combinations and wanted to get some opinions to which set to use.

3782461 - 2.02/1.6 valves - screw in studs but no accessory holes (1965)
3973370 - 1.94/1.5 valves - accessory holes - same head as 186? (1969)
333882 - 2.02/1.6 valves - accessory holes - 76cc chambers (1974)

All will have to be rebuilt if that makes a difference. Thanks!
 
#6 ·
Of the three sets I have listed, which ones would be the best fit for a moderate street engine? I'm leaning towards building the 3973370s because they are like the 186s and have the accessory holes, plus they are correct for the application. From what I can find these are over the counter replacements for the 186s.
 
#8 ·
194's will be more torky across the board...but fall on their face after 4K or so with todays cam grinds. what are your intentions with the car?
 
#9 ·
Plan on driving the car to local shows and cruise-ins, no strip. Don't mind if the car has more bark than bite. I'm sure the occasional burnout isn't out of the question :) The stock motor was 300hp, I was hoping more towards 350 to 400hp. Just thinking that one of the three sets I have would put me in that range.

What is the cost comparison between aftermarket and rebuilt?
 
#10 ·
Aftermarket technology is WAY more advanced than yesteryear. More port velocity, larger plenum or runners, smaller things like adding to atomization due to chamber shape, flame spread, etc, etc.

A decent aftermarket head is less expensive than buying a good set of older heads and then having them worked.
Aftermarket heads -assembled on ebay 317 a piece.
take your heads to have them worked to the equivalent of the aftermarket heads is atleast 400... 150-200 for the better heads.
 
#11 ·
Just do a valve job and bowl-blend and port clean-up the -370's IF THEY ARE 64 cc sized and use either the Fel-pro, #1094, .015" thick shim headgaskets or Mr. Gaskets .020" thick shims and go!!

--------------DON'T use a 76 cc head!!!!--------------------------

Add a CC 282S solid lifter cam while you are at it!!

Sucker will come right alive!!

Otherwise buy a set of Vortec's and all the other stuff they need and run them!

You will be better off w/ them than the old double-humps!!

Imho..

BUT you will need to watch cam lift and Vortec head guide clearance if you do decide to install the 282S cam!!

Read up on the Vortec's here from over at MadMikes great SGCOG, NastyZ28 site..

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505

And think about doing Dirt's "Ghetto-Grind"!!!

pdq67
 
#12 ·
pdq67, since the motor doesn't have an unlimited budget, I too believe the 370s are the way to go. They are suppose to be just like the 186s. Might put the 461s on Ebay to help pay for the rebuild. I'm sure someone needs a Nov 1965 set.

Is it very hard to get the valves adjusted with the CC 282S solid lifter cam? I've only had experience with the hydraulic cams, pretty easy to get the valves adjusted on those.

I'm leaning towards this build, thoughts and suggestions please?

Stock 4-bolt Block #3970010 - cleaned, checked & bored accordingly (.030)
Stock crank - checked - visually looks good
Stock Rods - checked and resized
**If crank and rods don't check out will consider Eagle Rotating Assembly
Rebuild the 370s (new valves, seats, springs, etc)
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold and Cam Kit
**May consider one of Comp Cams K-Kits
Holly Street Avenger (670 cfm)
Headers

Tim
 
#13 ·
It's just like adjusting a hy-cam except you use a feeler gage or maybe two.

I always adjust mine hot, idling b/c i was taught the "feelie" thing from the old mechanics back when I was a kid. You can use the engine off I/C-E/O way and go down each bank easy.

This method is explained here.

pdq67
 
#14 ·
Thanks pdq67, I'll search the site for instructions to adjust solid lifters.

If I use my stock block, crank, and rods should I still go with the solid lifters? Do the solid lifters and cam really add that much hp over the hydraulic?

If I use the setup mentioned earlier would I have a pretty good street engine? HP? I've been told to be careful with cam selection, too much cam could dog motor down.

Thanks for all the comments!

Tim
 
#15 ·
Everything will be fine.

And a solid lifter cam is generally good for 3 to 4 percent more power everywhere b/c it can knock the lifter harder which equate's to more suck that translate's into more torque. Plus, they don't float!! Just use good valve springs like what's recommended for the cam and all will be good.

pdq67
 
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