Machine work going rates - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 08, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Eric
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 437
Machine work going rates

I have decided that its about time to redo my 327. Right now I am in the early BUDGETING stage and trying to decide what exactly I want to do. a big factor is COST of course.

What are the average going rates for machine work now? I am thinking I will need the following at least no matter which way I go.

Crack test
Sonic test
Acid dip/bake
Turn and polish crank
possible machine work to add splayed caps
Cam bearings
Balance
Bore Cylinders
Hone with deck plate
Deck block (not matching numbers)

Any other things I may have to have done or I missed?

Thanks!

'68 Coupe 383 Small Block
4 speed Muncie (M 21)
12 bolt rear end (4.10)
Old school slappers
Old School L-60 Mickey Thompson's


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 08, 07:09 PM
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Bill
 
Join Date: Aug 1998
Location: Waldorf Md. USA
Posts: 3,290
Re: Machine work going rates

EC,
Prices seem to vary quite a bit around the country but, here is what you would pay me:

Crack test .. $60 block would have to be cleaned first
Sonic test.. $100
Acid dip/bake $120
Turn and polish crank .. $200 includes magnaflux and chamfer oil holes
possible machine work to add splayed caps $400 includes align hone
Cam bearings ..$50 labor only
Balance $200
Bore Cylinders $220
Hone with deck plate $ 80 additional
Deck block (not matching numbers) $120

Hope this helps,

Bill Koustenis
Owner
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 08, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Eric
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 437
Re: Machine work going rates

THANKS!

How much is an align hone without new caps?

I also found a set of sportman IIs for almost nothing, How much would it be to redo these?

I am trying to keep the budget under 3500 that way I should end up around 4 grand if I am lucky (yeah I know how these budgets work!)

'68 Coupe 383 Small Block
4 speed Muncie (M 21)
12 bolt rear end (4.10)
Old school slappers
Old School L-60 Mickey Thompson's


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 08, 09:11 AM
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Ron
 
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Location: North Channel Lake Huron
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Re: Machine work going rates

If the motor is a running motor with High Mileage but requires a rebuild I would not bother with the Sonic test, Align Boring or Splay Caps (keep the 2 Bolt). If the motor exhibited flaws it would have did so by now. To me there is no better block then one with good core shift and has proven itself over time. It has taken a set leave it like that. There is no need to install Hardened Valve Seats on the old Fuelie Heads unless your towing or have the engine in a boat. Spend the money you save for Manley Sever Duty Valves, Mechanical Roller Cam/Crower Hippo's or Red Zone Lifters and Pro Magnum Rockers. Of course you would save again and increase power by using Vortecs.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 08, 09:31 AM
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Jim
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Yorkville, Illinois USA
Posts: 22,121
Re: Machine work going rates

machine work on mine was about $1300.
included:
clean block
tighten main caps, fit studs, line hone
Lightly deck block
bore and torque plate hone
install new cam bearings
check new crank, rods, and pistons.
Hone rod small ends, they were too tight.
clearance block for stroker.
Balance
Go thru heads, test springs, set installed ht, 3 angle valve job and viton seals.

This was a known good block





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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 08, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Eric
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 437
Re: Machine work going rates

Well, here is my situation. This may get long.....

the moter sitting in my car now is a 72 3970010 Block High tin high nickle block. The Crank is a 3.25 crank but I dont know if it is forged or cast iron. the pistons and rods are unknown. The heads are smog heads so those are trash. It aslo has WAY to big of a cam for the compression. I can reuse the intake, carb (demon 650) at least for a while. the reason for the rebuild/replace is two fold.

1. It has developed a rapping sound that I cant trace to the valvetrain. I would not be surprised if it was piston slap or wrist pin. I dont think it is a bearing because the oil pressure is VERY GOOD.

2. This engine has never satisfied me. I have the cash (well a chunk of it ha ha) AND the excuse to the wife to spend it (Makes a noise)

I have SEVERAL options that I face. I could rebuild the current set up with new heads, but with unknown crank life ect. for the cost I could redo this into a 383. Another option is to buy a short block and add the heads of my chioce. the last option, I have a line on a 400 sb with a crank (Which I would actually probably sell due to unknown history) But it is basicly a bare block. With all the horrer stories this kinda scares me...but the potential pay off of power also has me still considering it. Some stuff I coudl scavange from my current engine but I a not keen on that. The last option is a crate engine from somewhere but in reality I am not keen on that either....there always seems to be a trade off...."I would like...but it doesnt come with that....but has...."

The main goal for now. I want a stout bottem end Cast or Forged crank not sure yet, I want forged pistons and good rods. I really want to try to get some VERY good heads, and build around them.....

I want to end up with somethign that has the beef to take NO2 if I feel like adding it later, Something that will work well with all the parts, and somethign that will last a while with a good amount of power. The last goal is something that will not cause me to miss a morgatge payment.....

Like I said, I have ALOT of researc to do, and deciding where to go with it....I want GOOD parts, bt I dont want to go overboard for my goals...and budget.

The other thing I would like is to save enough pennys to go with a roller cam set up. But even that is to be seen.

Thanks!

EC<-----BACK TO THE SEACH FUNCTION!

'68 Coupe 383 Small Block
4 speed Muncie (M 21)
12 bolt rear end (4.10)
Old school slappers
Old School L-60 Mickey Thompson's


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 08, 11:14 AM
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Rusty
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 190
Re: Machine work going rates

I paid around $800 for:
  • Bore w/ torque plate
  • New cam bearings
  • Bronze freeze plugs
  • Skimming the deck
  • Balance rotating assembly
  • Cleaning the block
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 21st, 08, 12:36 PM
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 102
Re: Machine work going rates

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrsjr View Post
I paid around $800 for:
  • Bore w/ torque plate
  • New cam bearings
  • Bronze freeze plugs
  • Skimming the deck
  • Balance rotating assembly
  • Cleaning the block
Same here...$850....for a 454, included parts. new rod and crank bearings....new hyp??? pistons....cam bearings.....bored 30 over ....camshaft not installed.

The old man that owns the shop said, "I'm gonna do this one myself, we don't see stuff like this anymore!"
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 08, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Eric
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 437
Re: Machine work going rates

Well.....after priceing parts.....and adding in machine work....Looks like the 406 is out of my Budget....but I think I can do a 383 out of my block and get close to what I want.

Unless I can find a cheaper source for parts....

Do you think I can get away with a Cast steel aftermarket crank with decent rods and forged pistons and still have the ability to run NO2 down the road?

What are the limits of these cranks? (Eagle/Scat) What kind of piston speed can they handle safely and reliably?

Thanks for all the help so far!

'68 Coupe 383 Small Block
4 speed Muncie (M 21)
12 bolt rear end (4.10)
Old school slappers
Old School L-60 Mickey Thompson's


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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 08, 06:56 PM
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Patrick
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Quitman Georgia
Posts: 2,519
Re: Machine work going rates

Here is what I pay:

clean & mag block- $50
bore and hone- $150
install cam bearings- $30
deck block- $150
align hone- $150
valve job (2heads) $175 +
surface head- $30ea
polish crank-$30
press pistons-$8ea

69RS/SS,383,10:1cr,4.10,60ft1.6sec,1/[email protected],1/[email protected],Vicjr,RPMheads,750dp, Proform main body, cam,246*-250*@.050,.510,522,1.6rr,700r4,3200stall
383 IS SOLD!
Building a 489BBC

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 08, 08:38 PM
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Ed
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Hello Wisconsin!
Posts: 363
Re: Machine work going rates

EC,

Look up Ohio Crank on the net for a crankshaft, they have some very nice cranks at good prices. They're in Greenville, you may be close enough to pick up & save some $$. I just bought a lightweight 3.875 crank from them that is a piece of art.

Last edited by freezined; Jan 23rd, 08 at 05:50 PM.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 08, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Eric
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 437
Re: Machine work going rates

Quote:
Originally Posted by freezined View Post
EC,

Look up Ohio Crank on the net for a crankshaft, that have some very nice cranks at good prices. They're in Greenville, you may be close enough to pick up & save some $$. I just bought a lightweight 3.875 crank from them that is a piece of art.
I actually am looking at both one of thier rotating assmeblys and they have some nice short block prices too. Greeneville is driveable....but its a "leave at dark" and come home at dark if you want to make a day of it. I am actually thinking about calling them for the whole build just because of their reputation.

THANKS!

'68 Coupe 383 Small Block
4 speed Muncie (M 21)
12 bolt rear end (4.10)
Old school slappers
Old School L-60 Mickey Thompson's


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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 08, 06:36 AM
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Location: NORTH EAST
Posts: 938
Re: Machine work going rates

Quote:
Originally Posted by freezined View Post
EC,

Look up Ohio Crank on the net for a crankshaft, that have some very nice cranks at good prices. They're in Greenville, you may be close enough to pick up & save some $$. I just bought a lightweight 3.875 crank from them that is a piece of art.

There cranks look nice till you put a mike on the as we got 2 of them and they had so much taper in the journals we could not use them so just don't go by looks.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 08, 06:04 PM
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Ed
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Hello Wisconsin!
Posts: 363
Re: Machine work going rates

First thing I did was mic the crank, I didn't find any taper, but I did find the journals slightly under sized (.0002-ish) & attributed this to setting outside on the cold porch all afternoon. But now that it's had a month to warm up in the basement i'll unwrap it and measure again.

Thanks for the heads up, & if I find anything unsatisfactory I'll report back.
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