I agree with dnult on the degree tape or wheel.
Sounds to me like it has flat top pistons or dish, and big cc heads though. Does it come to life at higher RPM?
Had a little 305 once that I stuck a 350 head on one side to get a truck running. Had 150# on the 305 head and 125# on the 350 head. You'll lose about 10+ # due to your altitude on a compression test. If you had consistent compression and the leak down didn't show anything scary, then squirting oil in the cylinder won't show you much.
1 tooth on the cam to crank gear orientation would cause the cam to be out about 20° from the cam card. You are looking for an intake valve opening event somewhere between 30 and 10° BTC. You could probly just roll the engine by hand w/ the LB VC off and observe when 1 intake barely moves, look at the balancer. Also UDHarold has this trick
Jul 13th, 07, 5:25 AM
Senior Tech Team
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Senatobia, MS, USA
Re: new cam, cars not happy under 2k
I recommend my 'Quick & Dirty' method for verifying that the cam was installed correctly. The reason being, IF the cam is installed even slightly retarded, one of the obvious indications is that the engine takes more timing to run right, and there is a lock of bottom-end power and response.
You have this, so it is worth checking it out.
You only have to remove a valve cover.
Turn the engine up to TDC, and look at #1 cylinder's valves.
If BOTH valves are closed, you need to turn the engine one more turn so that both valves are off the seat at TDC.
Check the heights of the top of the retainers to the spring seats. The intake valve should be .030" to .060" CLOSER to the head. If the exhaust valve is closer, the cam is retarded and you have to take off the front cover and install the cam correctly.
The most common problem is that you have lined up the keyway with the dot on the keyway. The correct mark is on a tooth a couple of teeth counter-clockwise from the keyway. The cam does not have to be taken out to fix this problem.