pulling & installing cam, motor in car - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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pulling & installing cam, motor in car

How hard is it to do this? Car is a 68 camaro sbc
I know you have to unbolt the oil pan which will be a pain, but how hard can I expect this to be??? Anything else

The only Mustang I'd ever own is a Fender.

'68 333" Camaro
'14 5.0 Mustang
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 05:57 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

pull the distrub. intake, radiator, pushrods etc. Just mark every wire and hose when you take it off even if you think you can remember it. Also if you have a mechanical fuel pump, the pushrod may have to come out. It can turn into a pretty good job. Get a manual for your car, and with that and the instuctions that come with the cam you should get it

68 camaro, 350 vortec heads, rpm air gap, lunati voodoo cam, coated headers, th350, 100 shot, 3.73, eaton posi.

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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 06:03 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

RTV on the front pan lips for sure. Dot to Dot timing. Remember that Dot/Dot is actually #6. When you are ready, just find compression on #1 , line up dist rotor with #1 on cap and drop in, , Double check to make sure you are not off a slot as sometimes the dist will not go in and it will confuse you if you have never done this.

Don
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Zdld17:69 Z/RS,306, NOR141111, 9N554XXX, 12A, X3G, 59/59,723, AFR 195,CCC282/290HR, TKO 600, BU1122B1E Owner since Dec 1968

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 06:23 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

Oh yea, and if you have flat tappet cam, make sure you put your pushrods, and rockers back in the same place, if you reuse them. Rtv in the valley of intake to(wouldnt use gaskets here). Buy a cam kit with lifters, and I would also replace the timing chain. Adjust rockers when your done. Also note that just because your number 1 piston is up doesnt mean your at tdc, it does two revolutions so it could also be bdc. Its also easier sometimes to mark your distrib when you pull it a tdc. Then when you put it back on tdc just put it on your mark.

68 camaro, 350 vortec heads, rpm air gap, lunati voodoo cam, coated headers, th350, 100 shot, 3.73, eaton posi.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

the motor is currently headless, Cam, intake, lifters yada yada yada are all on the way!
All I have to do is clean the old gaskets off the block and pull the cam, I am freaked out about pulling bolts out of the pan since my car had no leaks from that area prior. Pan gasket is a 1 piece fel pro, and would really like to meet the guy who though that up, what a genius!

The only Mustang I'd ever own is a Fender.

'68 333" Camaro
'14 5.0 Mustang
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 08:07 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

I have never done this and can't speak from experience, but I don't understand why you have to pull the oil pan off.

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

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Originally Posted by X33D80 View Post
I have never done this and can't speak from experience, but I don't understand why you have to pull the oil pan off.
Not off but almost to slip the timing cover out because it is sealed with the oil pan.
Am I correct on this???

The only Mustang I'd ever own is a Fender.

'68 333" Camaro
'14 5.0 Mustang
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 08:32 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

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Originally Posted by ace's68 View Post
Not off but almost to slip the timing cover out because it is sealed with the oil pan.
Am I correct on this???

Don
TC # 349
Zdld17:69 Z/RS,306, NOR141111, 9N554XXX, 12A, X3G, 59/59,723, AFR 195,CCC282/290HR, TKO 600, BU1122B1E Owner since Dec 1968

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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 08:37 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

Yes you will have to lower it enough to get the timing cover off. Just be as careful as possible and reuse your gasket. If the gasket is not good you may have to pull the pan and put in a new gasket(pan in the but on some cars might have to undo motormounts and jack the motor up a little). I bet you wont have to though. dont overtighting your pan bolts, its better to go back and tighting later if you have a leak. Also if its optional in the directions to us rtv always use it

68 camaro, 350 vortec heads, rpm air gap, lunati voodoo cam, coated headers, th350, 100 shot, 3.73, eaton posi.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 08:44 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

just out of curiousity what kind of goodies are you putting on your motor(what size sbc) Dont forget when you pull the cam if it wont come out its that fuel pump pushrod holding it in there. I almost never figured that out(if you have a mechanical fuel pump).

68 camaro, 350 vortec heads, rpm air gap, lunati voodoo cam, coated headers, th350, 100 shot, 3.73, eaton posi.

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 08, 10:03 PM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

I did heads and cam on my motor in the car last year. It's doable. If you have a one piece pan gasket it makes it A LOT easier.

Steve
1968 that started life and a 6 banger with a PG. Now it's a 350 with a TKO600, Moser 12 bolt, Speedtech LCA/UCA, ATS Tall Spindles, Hotchkis Springs, Forgeline ZX3P, C5 (Kore3) brakes with other cool stuff from Ron Davis, Vintage Air and soon to be Terminator EFI.


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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 08:57 AM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdld17 View Post
RTV on the front pan lips for sure. Dot to Dot timing. Remember that Dot/Dot is actually #6. When you are ready, just find compression on #1 , line up dist rotor with #1 on cap and drop in, , Double check to make sure you are not off a slot as sometimes the dist will not go in and it will confuse you if you have never done this.
Dot to dot can be 1 or 6. The crank spins 2 times for every one revolution of the cam. You will find which one you ended up with when you re-drop the distributor. I don't even worry until then. As long as you have the #1 plug wire on #1 and the dist. has room to turn, you are fine.

I just did a retrofit roller swap with engine in car. There was a little more measuring going on. It took me about half a day. For someone new at it, I would give it 1 to 2 days. Just keep everything as clean as possible. Use plenty of assembly lube on the cam for install. Change the oil after break in. Make sure you know how to adjust the valves too.
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 09:15 AM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

I am confused here I thought dot to dot was bdc(tdc for 6) witch is were you install your cam. 12 oclock and 12 oclock is tdc #1. The dots will only line up at bdc, if you spin it around again you will be at tdc( you will be a 12 oclock, 12 oclock again). For example if your motor is a tdc you will have to turn it a rotation tdc #6, install your cam, and that will be dot to dot, every time you are a tdc after this will be both 12 oclock and every time you are a tdc#6 the dots line up.

68 camaro, 350 vortec heads, rpm air gap, lunati voodoo cam, coated headers, th350, 100 shot, 3.73, eaton posi.

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Last edited by justincat; Apr 12th, 08 at 09:30 AM.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 09:45 AM
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

ohh ok, I see what your saying lluciano, If you dont know were your engine is before you put them cam in it will go in dot to dot at tdc, and then when you turn dot to dot again you will be a tdc again. You will be 180 out when you put the dist. back in.

68 camaro, 350 vortec heads, rpm air gap, lunati voodoo cam, coated headers, th350, 100 shot, 3.73, eaton posi.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: pulling & installing cam, motor in car

I have pulled the motor out of this car twice but don't want too again so i'm doing everything with the short block still in the car.
New 58cc 2.02/1.60 alumnium heads will go on the .040 327 along with a team g intake and a cc 286, new timing chain etc...

My question now is, can/should I use steel shim rubber coated gaskets of .015"? I want to use these to raise my compression as high as possible but my friends are telling me that the block has to be prepped and the heads need to be checked for straightness or I could be in for a real headache. Any ideas?

The only Mustang I'd ever own is a Fender.

'68 333" Camaro
'14 5.0 Mustang
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