BURR in Damper Ramp - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Ron
 
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BURR in Damper Ramp

Hereís a common error. If you do not lubricate and keep a Harmonic Damper perfectly aligned while installing it, the nose of the crank will dig into the taper machined in the cylinder of the damper designed for mounting and create a lip or dam of metal in the cylinder stopping the installation and 9 times out of 10 you will break the bolt off the installation tool leaving it in the snout of the crank.

Been there. Done it. Iím not perfect. Donít you love this when this happens?

OK, you got the damper off, the broken stud out and manage to find another tool or bolts to attempt another installation.
The snout of the crank will unlikely damage as it is made of much harder material; but, what do you do about the new and very expensive SFI approved damper which you have just damaged, grind and polish the BURR flush or trash the damper?

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 06:41 PM
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

I had the machine shop take about .001 out of my ATI, then I deburred the end of my crank. It went on a little on the hard side but thats what you want so you know its doing its job reducing harmonics. A local machine shop told my buddy to heat his up before installation. He did just that on his 454 with some australian cheapy balancer. After he blew the engine up he couldnt get back off even with heat and a puller. I cant see heating up something like that.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 07:01 PM
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

Ron,
I have fixed plenty of them with a sanding roll on the die grinder. What type of damper is it ? If its an ATI ther is a good chance you will have to get it honed to fit your crankshaft. There should only be about a .0015 interference fit. A lot of the aftermarket crankshafts are smaller than they should be, so ATI makes the damper small too. When you try to put it on a stock crankshaft its jsut too tight. Big Blocks are the worse. By the way, I put silver antiseize on all of them.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 08, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

Bill:

This episode happened to me years ago and I've seen it happen to many others over the years. I thought the thread would be of interest to members.

I've basically come to the same conclusion as you. I now practice doing a partial install using Anti-Seize a use a torque wrench with my attention on any increase in torque readings. If torque suddenly increases, I remove the damper, deburr and hone, as you advise. I agree BBC's are the worst and after market dampers are particularly tight.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 04:51 PM
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

I can't believe I read this earlier, and then went out today and had this exact problem on my balancer. It now has a ridge I have to get out of there and try again. I seem to be having trouble with the key also, it seems like I have to get the front of the key down to get it started, and then as it goes on, the key tilts up in the back. The whole thing is a real pain to deal with.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

Jon:

Deja Vu. Unfortunately it's just one of them Christye things we go through to feed our sickly addiction )

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 07:14 PM
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

Why did newer cranks go to a woodruff key. Mine uses the old style straight stock.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 13th, 08, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

My Forged 68 Large Journal 327 Crank is Woodruff and I've seen the Straight Drift type that extent the full length of the snout but can't say I ever thought about it. 63 to 65 may be?

You should post that one for the number guys in TAG TEAM.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 14th, 08, 04:27 AM
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Re: BURR in Damper Ramp

Quote:
Originally Posted by joncam67 View Post
I seem to be having trouble with the key also, it seems like I have to get the front of the key down to get it started, and then as it goes on, the key tilts up in the back. The whole thing is a real pain to deal with.
The key is too tall. Take it out and gently grind down the top some.

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